GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Sgt_Lemon on 30 June 2013, 21:28
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My remote locking kit jus arrived. The problem I have is that it needs an electric lock opening switch to feed into. Isn't the mk2 completely Manual in its central locking. What do I need to overcome this?
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You'll probably need this: http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=242
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Will this work? http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-12304
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Yes.
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Weather is good, might start on that this afternoon
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You might as well fit a boot popper while your at it, i did it the other week, fairly simple.
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do you mean manual as in when you lock drivers door with key the other doors lock to?
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I know it's got a pneumatic system for all the locks however it needs manual input to trigger it. Either turn the key or pull/push the lock inside the door.
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Your a legend on here Lemon :grin:
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Update: one broken door lock, no remote locking, one pissed off person, the worst designed door motor ever sitting on my drive
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oh dear. can you put up a pic of the kit you got?
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Ok after all afternoon of trying to mount the motor in a place that will override the manual system I have up. The motor needed to be lined up in parallel or it didn't have another movement to override the actuator. I said balls to to and just mounted the actuator upside down and connected to motor right to the end of it. It now works but remotely but turning a key does f**k all. It's all good till the battery goes somewhere then I have to use the boot or passenger door. Success? I don't even know, too much blood loss after missing with a pair of scissors haha
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so does the original set up have a micro switch inside the door up beside the lock?
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The central clocking works off the drivers door. The drivers door only has an actuator, nothing within the door that will physically pop the switch
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ah is there wires going in to the door latch assembly? are you meant to connect new actuator in parallel with the inside push/pull door lock linkage rod?
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The head of the original actuator is flexible. So when. Mounted the motor at and angle when it extended it just altered the actuator angle but didn't pull it in enough. Because of the amount of rods within the door frame and the connecter supplied with the new motor it was impossible to mount the motor is a way which 1) worked and 2) allowed original use of the door mechanism. I was planning to buy lock less handles so hopefully the new system is reliable enough to not lock me out. Perhaps worth fixing the boot lock so. Don't get locked out ever.
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I used one of the factory holes and drilled another to mount motor then cut the rods to length. At first I tried using the whole rod and then mounting it which was never gonna work. That was r click kit though.
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I think the way I'm gunna do it is to use the new motor in place of the original actuator to get the best angle and power to move the locks. Then wire the remote locking into the actuator so it doesn't actually need to move but I can tell it when to activate the rest of the system
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The wiring diagram supplied th the kit doesn't work. Can anyone who has I stalled remote locking explain how it was wired. I decided to remove the actuator as there is not enough room or power to runs motor had actuator so the motor is wired in fine, just need to trigger the correct signal into the actuator wires to set the central locking.
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Need pics. Bit confused with 2 actuators lol.
Mine just plugged in all colour coded
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No two actuators. Within the drivers door is a switch basically. It receives the physical input from turning the key. However to include the drivers door within the remote locking you need a motor to open the lock. I have replaced the switch with a motor and the motor opens and closes the lock when the button is pressed. However now there is no central locking. I have tried wiring in the switch however is just isnt working according to the diagram. Getting photos now
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(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y492/Sgt_Lemon/image_zps136453de.jpg) (http://s1277.photobucket.com/user/Sgt_Lemon/media/image_zps136453de.jpg.html)
sh!tty quality :(
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I'm so confused, wiring the actuator up as a switch as shown in diagram 3 makes the central locking not work and the motor only move small amounts. The actuator had 3 wires, 1 live and two negatives, when the switch moved it completed the circuit through one of the negatives. I have tried putting a live through one of the, but it doesn't work every time. I don't understand how it can work some of the time.
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I'm still bit lost. Mine works off remote and the drivers door will activate all doors off the lock if I want it too.
That's just off the normal motor like you can buy at maplin s with an rclick module. Seems over complicated at the mo.
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I have a maplins motor, how did you manage to piggy back it onto the current set up within the door. That's the simplist way but I just couldn't find a way to get it round the actuator and internal door handle cable.
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Update: it's really hot and uncomfortable sitting on my drive in direct sunlight for long periods of time. I found a way to get it to work but the motor keeps overheating and stops working. Now with a few holes in the slam panel can anyone suggest a small cheap 2 wire motor that is powerful enough and doesn't stop working after 5 minutes. Maplin can have their motors back free with a rant.
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Should have bought the RClick kit fella.
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---------------------------------Start again (confused)-------------------------
Are you keeping the original air system or the new electric conversion?
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I made a new thread and have managed to sort something out with a rclick 5 wire motor instead.
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Rclick 5 wire motor arrived within 24 hours. Once it was here it took literally 10 mins to get it all working faultlessly.