GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: lighters on 17 June 2013, 21:49
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Just bought a forge 008 FMDV008 Recirculation Valve for £80 including delivery!
To replace the current GFB valve I currently have on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jegxk5gxczlvjgt/2013-05-19%2012.47.08.jpg
Also booked my car in for a cambelt change as it was last done 7 years ago!
Also in the middle of servicing it with replacing the pollen filter that looked like it had never been replaced,EVER!
While getting the cambelt changed & car serviced what else can I tune/change?
Just recently had a new clutch fitted so all good there, car has already been remapped to 180 bhp apparently but no proof.
I basically want to try and reduce the turbo lag as much as possible! Wind deflectors anygood?
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Turbo lag? It must be an awful map then! As for wind deflectors, they won't do much to reduce it :laugh:
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lol :grin:
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Yea the lag seems to be quite noticable, anyway to get it checked cheaply? Anything else you can recommend? Hopefully the dumpvalve will make a big difference! after 2.5k/3k revs it gets a nice boost but low end its terrible such as accelerating from 30mph in 3rd
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Any car will lag in 3rd at 30mph :rolleyes: mine slow to pick up from then too.....
008p doubt will change much unless your old valve shot.
To get more get up and go. Try a turbo back exhaust a decat helps with turbo spool.
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The 008 will only make a difference if your current diverter valve is leaking. It's bound to lag at 30mph in 3rd, the issue sounds like it's more down to driving style than anything else, you have to allow some time for the turbo to spool.
Generally ko3 and ko3s turbo's suffer from almost no lag if driven correctly. If you're convinced there is something.wrong get it.scanned for fault codes and check for split pipes in the engine bay.
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Sounds like you have a sh1t remap.. and the turbo does not kick in from under 1.8k revs. (Somwhere around there)....its not a n/a powered car where power is there as soon as you plant your foot.
Lag..Wind deflectors :huh: :laugh:
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cheers for the info, in 30mph at 2nd its pretty fast then 35mph its extremely quick.
Guessing its just the driving style, I came from an mgzr 120 and that is pretty quick with low end acceleration despite having to keep the revs high to get it to maintain high speed. Figured the golf would atleast be the same but its not, 3k + revs it blows it out the water.
Already got a good exhaust on the car I think, not sure what type however.
I have a receipt from kwik fit
A3 Tur 2.3 9605 SCP £87 AU207
EDISP eco exhaust disposal £1.50
AU208 A3 Tur 1.8 9605 STP £137.30
Not a clue what the above means but guessing it was for an exhaust.
I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forge-008-FMDV008-Recirculation-Valve-/111094399970?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19ddbe03e2 - Is it recommended to get any higher quality hoses/pipes or whatever to make the most of it?
The car was advertised as remapped, they had no proof when looking through the service history but he was adamant it was, is it possible to check with a diagnostic machine or when getting the cam belt done this weekend?
You can definitely hear the turbo spool then its very fast all the way to the red!
Got it scanned and there were no errors, just that my keyfob battery was low so will take a look on ebay!
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Where you from? Best take it down someone can dyno it for you then youll know what its actually is pushin.
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You can use vagcom to log MAF readings, that should give you a rough idea of power output.
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Newcastle - awesome will check now! How much will a dyno cost? havent a clue about anyone around here.
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get water pump done whilst the cam belt is being changed :wink:
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but low end its terrible such as accelerating from 30mph in 3rd
I have the cure - you should be in 2nd at 30 :grin:
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get water pump done whilst the cam belt is being changed :wink:
And the belt tensioners :wink:
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and the engine mount bolts, ask Nino about them :lipsrsealed:
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I'd want to make sure the car was running properly before tuning further, I'm going to start chasing more power soon but have spent a fortune over the last few months making sure that everything is as it should be. Just so you have an idea of what I have done:
- Cambelt/tensioners/waterpump
- Oil/filter/pickup pipe
- Spark plugs
- Fuel filter
- Rear axle bushes
- Air filter
- Brake fluid
- Brake pads/discs
- Wishbone bushes
- Temp sensor
- Thermostat
- Coolant
- ARB bushes
Now I'm happy that the car is running ok, I'm going to fit a FMIC, LCR fuel pump and then stage 2 map
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Then I can welcome you to the club Dom
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Also just to give you an idea, if I'm on over run I can plant my foot in whatever gear I'm in and instantly get boost
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THREAD JACK - probably answered before but what is the difference between the 007p and the 008p, ive got the 008p sitting at home whilst i wait for a new tip to show itself. is the 008p just uprated? got it at a bargain of 80£ and all
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Will take a look into belt tensioner and engine mount bolts, will need to order them quickly however as its booked in for sat!
Gave it a full service so already replaced with genuine vw parts.
Oil
Oil filter
Fuel Filter
Pollen filter
Didnt use the flush as advised
Timing belt to be put on including dampner and water pump!
Will take alook at belt tensioner and engine mount bolts whatever those are and fitting 008p dump valve as its just arrived.
I have just put some vpower nitro in my car and may be a placebo but it seems to pickup a LOT better!
Seems to run a fair bit smoother low end and seems to pickup faster after 3k revs! Could just be the spark plugs however!
Either way going to stick with!
P.S 2nd at 30mph = rocket for what it is
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Still not found any info on belt tensioner and engine mount bolts? what do they do exactly and do I need them replaced?
Was also told to replace Aux Drive Belt - is this needed / required?
Need to buy these tomorrow so quick replies with solid info would be appreciated, tah
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Make sure you buy a full cambelt kit, this will include the tensioners. As for the engine mount bolts, I wouldn't bother personally.
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Confirmed I have the full cambelt kit, tah mate
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The dump valve is ready to be fitted, has all springs and shimsetc. do I need any uprated hoses or pipes?
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do I need any uprated hoses or pipes?
if none of your pipes have been replaced, buy some 3mm silicone vac hose because the old stuff will be perished and will just crumble when you take it off! replace the pipe to the FPR while youre at it.
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Dont think anythings been replaced, pipes seem fine, what exactly am i searching for?
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As Jamie said, 3mm ID silicone hose is what you want.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-x1M-BLACK-SILICONE-VAC-HOSE-VENAIR-BOOST-DUMP-VALVE-/250467393080?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a51051e38
it will become obvious what you need to replace once you start doing it! :whistle:
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/ofbndjovfqfj954/2013-05-19%2012.47.52.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0crn5ea9vzio8d1/2013-05-19%2012.47.41.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m3zx1xty3vnbdv7/2013-05-19%2012.48.08.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9zx34g3lm7rg1lq/2013-05-19%2012.48.20.jpg
They dont look standard, didnt feel rock hard either? think they are ok?
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Get some more pics with the engine cover off, I'd ditch that dump valve though!!
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Ye I already have a forge 008 that I got for £90 with 3 shims and 2 springs with only 1 weeks use :D
I havent got any with the engine cover off, do you need it? Just had a full service, these are old pics - I know nothing about cars
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Completely missed the whole topic of this thread was that you'd bought a 008 :laugh:
Only asked for a pic to see where those blue hoses go to, hopefully down to the fpr :wink:
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Dont have any but will be replacing that valve with the forge one so from what I can understand the hoses should be fine?
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youre right, they are not standard pipes, I would still replace them though, it looks a little untidy.
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Well i fitted the dump valve, initial impressions are massive disappointment. It's actually louder than the one I had on, sort of lower volume louder if you know what I mean.
It made absolutely zero difference to throttle response/less turbo lag, expected it to be atleast a little faster. :'( just a different noise
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What colour springs did it come with??
And what did you fit?
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Yellow spring 2 shims it was prebuilt and also blue spring thats not in use the forge 008
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Yellow spring 2 shims it was prebuilt and also blue spring thats not in use the forge 008
You tried it without the shims? Was it prebuilt with a remap in mind?
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Car has been remapped and I bought it on ebay with about 200miles use, it was already pre-assembled. Nope, surely it needs the shims (I havent a clue but they are included so can only assume)
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take the shims aout and stick with the yellow spring.
a forge DV doesn't mean your car will go faster, it just means that its a strong reliable dv!.
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Are you positive about the shims? what do they do exactly? I cant understand why they would come with shims but then you wouldnt use them? Will there be any benefit/drawback? tah
edit - https://www.dropbox.com/s/cu2f3isdpah67vm/IMG_20130624_203553.jpg update pic with new DV
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yes, i`m sure. they are only for fine tuning. not really needed.
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take the shims aout and stick with the yellow spring.
a forge DV doesn't mean your car will go faster, it just means that its a strong reliable dv!.
This.If you thought it would make your car quicker then you were mistaken
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I thought it would have made the acceleration seem faster with a quicker response and hopefully a tiny bit reduced turbo lag but no word of a lie, I have gotten a bigger benefit/placebo from using vpower nitro over this :'(
So advice is to take the shims out or is that pointless coz there will be 0 difference?
Edit - now I know why I need to take out the two shims!
If you are finding that the valve is dumping more than required or you are loosing boost pressure it is normally an indication that a stronger spring is required. Conversely if the valve is failing to dump it may be necessary to install a weaker spring. If during this tuning of your valve you are faced for example with the red spring being to strong and the blue spring to weak, you can add the spacers to the blue spring to increase the tension by small increments, thus achieving a setting between the red and blue springs.
Valve Spring color coding
Green - 5-15 PSI
Yellow - 15-23 PSI
Blue - 23-30 PSI
Red - 30 + PSI
The above figures are estimates only and should only be considered as a guideline
Will give a try - Anyway to view what PSI im outputting?
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With a boost gauge :wink:
Most mapped cars will use a yellow spring though
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Scanned the car and it has no problems still.
I never bothered buying new hoses when I fitted the forge 008 as I didnt have the time but would swapping them make any difference or is it just a case of working/not working?
Will get the 2 shims taken out asap and report back! :D
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Refer back to https://www.dropbox.com/s/cu2f3isdpah67vm/IMG_20130624_203553.jpg
Seems like my dumpvalve flutters abit after watching some youtube vids? I think thats fluttering anyway.
I am going to remove the 2 shims and stick to just the yellow spring.
Also ordering http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-x1M-BLACK-SILICONE-VAC-HOSE-VENAIR-BOOST-DUMP-VALVE-/250467393080?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a51051e38&clk_rvr_id=494800162746&afsrc=1
Is 1m the correct side I need?
What pipes should I also replace, need an ebay link plz.
Is it worth bothering with a boost gauge?