GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: D@nCeR on 08 May 2013, 01:02
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Alright,
So Ive been lingering round these forums for donkeys and have never had to post for help as 99% of the time I can find what I need..
Until now..
So after reading through loads of threads and posts on PCV Modifications and Oil Catch Fitting.. I decided i'd set about and fix my small boost leaks, fit a catch can and simplify the PCV system...
Car Specs:
Golf GTi (AUQ) 180 - Remapped to 250BHP / 265lb/ft
Few pics to start.
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1252_zpsdb3162ef.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1252_zpsdb3162ef.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1253_zps20bf024e.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1253_zps20bf024e.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1254_zps245327f9.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1254_zps245327f9.jpg.html)
When I removed the Hockey Puck oil dribbled out..
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1260_zps07e4ba3c.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1260_zps07e4ba3c.jpg.html)
Stripped a bit more down...
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1262_zps4aa806bd.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1262_zps4aa806bd.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1263_zps25794c8e.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1263_zps25794c8e.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1264_zpsd439c97f.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1264_zpsd439c97f.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1265_zps69343dc1.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1265_zps69343dc1.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1266_zpsedba184b.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1266_zpsedba184b.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1267_zpsc4a1a7fe.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1267_zpsc4a1a7fe.jpg.html)
And the finished product:
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1270_zps4951e871.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1270_zps4951e871.jpg.html)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1271_zps0e02cc75.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1271_zps0e02cc75.jpg.html)
The issue im having now.. from cold.. car starts normally, vaccuum pump kicks in.. minute or so later goes off... drive away fine.. boosts up to 20PSI through the gears.. If i do a WOT Pull in any gear.. then let it slow down with no throttle it chucks itself into Limp mode.. no lights on the dash.. no errors on the ECU.. if I flick the Ignition off and back on.. Ive got full boost again..
Lets see if i can make sense of which way ive simplified the PCV..
From Crank Breather ---- into T-Piece ---- Into Catch Can + Rocker Cover.
From Hockey Puck --- into Catch Can
Ive removed the Suction Jet Pump and the pipework that goes along with it.. Capped Off Port on Inlet Manifold..
Ive removed the V Shaped Split from the Brake Booster Line (also part of Suction Jet Pump Pipework) --- and Replaced with small bit of pipe..
Ive also removed the small section of metal and rubber pipework from TIP Pipe to Inlet Manifold with one way check valve in.. Ive simply ran 1 hose from TIP into Manifold with the Check Valve Into The TIP (This can be seen on this pic just!)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd313/chrisdanceruk/PCV%20System/IMG_1271_zps0e02cc75.jpg) (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/chrisdanceruk/media/PCV%20System/IMG_1271_zps0e02cc75.jpg.html)
Im at a loss of what to try next..
Any wisdom or help anyone can shed on the matter would be awesome!
Cheers in Advance
Chris
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N249 bypass done?
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N249 bypass done?
No, I'd read you didnt need to bypass it unless you were removing the whole Vacuum System..
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id do away with the vac box too near plug 4, from what I remember when I did mine I chopped the hard lines out and blocked the one that comes from the very bottom of the tip (comes out somewhere near the DV)
also block the one in the middle of the inlet mani.
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I was told by the guy who did my n249 delete who knows his 1.8t engines that when you do a catch can you remove that hockey puck all together buddy ?
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You don't remove the puck valve as stated, leave it be
Do the n249 bypass and get rid off all the junk which is basically getting rid of any potential trouble causers
Also ditch the split-r valve as they are crap and can cause problems and it is also in the wrong way :smiley:
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You don't remove the puck valve as stated, leave it be
Do the n249 bypass and get rid off all the junk which is basically getting rid of any potential trouble causers
Also ditch the split-r valve as they are crap and can cause problems and it is also in the wrong way :smiley:
Never had issues with it... It's also in the wrong way??? What do you mean? It's installed how forge state it should be lol...
I didn't have any issues with the car at all before fitting oil catch tank.. So it has to be something I've done or changed which it doesn't like.
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The boost coming from the charge pipe should hit the side of the piston in the valve.
It may be my eyes but it definatly looks like te boost is goin in from the bottom.
You want to do the rest of the deletes n249 ,n112 etc and pull out the hardlines as just doing half can confuse things.
Get rid of it all and it's much more simple and should be ok.
It may be that the car seems fine with the split-r but test have proven a pure recirc valve is better and it's just a potential problem :smiley:
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The boost coming from the charge pipe should hit the side of the piston in the valve.
It may be my eyes but it definatly looks like te boost is goin in from the bottom.
You want to do the rest of the deletes n249 ,n112 etc and pull out the hardlines as just doing half can confuse things.
Get rid of it all and it's much more simple and should be ok.
It may be that the car seems fine with the split-r but test have proven a pure recirc valve is better and it's just a potential problem :smiley:
Nail on head :afro:
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250 bhp with no fmic?? :lipsrsealed:
As said get rid of literally everything and be left with a vacuum to the dv and the fpr no need for the reservoir
Also what noise are you getting when the valve dumps? Is it a flutter or a wosssssh as it (the dv) might not be set up properly
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On the auq you can get rid of the puck and is the DV even in the right place that ain't where I have mine and I've got a catch can fitted the limp mode maybe due to this
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Please explain to me what makes the auq special and why you can remove the puck valve??
The split-r valve is in the correct place and leave the puck where it is.
Do as stated and report back :smiley:
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250 bhp with no fmic?? :lipsrsealed:
As said get rid of literally everything and be left with a vacuum to the dv and the fpr no need for the reservoir
Also what noise are you getting when the valve dumps? Is it a flutter or a wosssssh as it (the dv) might not be set up properly
I have got FMIC.. And a lot other mods.. Decat full Milltek etc..
I couldn't find any info on removing it all.. I just simplified it..
Maybes I should be looking at removing it all then..
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Did you follow this guide??
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=113646.0
This is the one to use :wink:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
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Did you follow this guide??
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=113646.0
This is the one to use :wink:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
Holy sh!t that looks a bit extreme haha!! Best book Saturday off lol
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Please explain to me what makes the auq special and why you can remove the puck valve??
The split-r valve is in the correct place and leave the puck where it is.
Do as stated and report back :smiley:
Why don't you enlighten us all as you clearly know it all ?????
I thought the idea of a forum was to give and receive advise but I must be wrong and we all only need to ask you all we need to know
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Please explain to me what makes the auq special and why you can remove the puck valve??
The split-r valve is in the correct place and leave the puck where it is.
Do as stated and report back :smiley:
Why don't you enlighten us all as you clearly know it all ?????
I thought the idea of a forum was to give and receive advise but I must be wrong and we all only need to ask you all we need to know
To be fair, you asked for advice and he has given you some.
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Please explain to me what makes the auq special and why you can remove the puck valve??
The split-r valve is in the correct place and leave the puck where it is.
Do as stated and report back :smiley:
Why don't you enlighten us all as you clearly know it all ?????
I thought the idea of a forum was to give and receive advise but I must be wrong and we all only need to ask you all we need to know
Im sorry but i never said I know it all, in fact I'm far from knowin it all.
Forums are for giving an receiving advice by you shouldn't be giving advice unless your sure its right or if you do you shoul be stating that that is what you think but may be wrong.
The fact is there is no difference for example between the auq and aum that means youcan remove the puck valve on the auq.
The puck valve is designed so that at idle (vacuum) it is open so that gasses can freely flow from the block into the tip but when you put your foot down and create boost it creates a strong vacuum on te inlet side of the turbo which sucks the diaphram down and closes the valve so you don't suck all the gas out of the block and then it reopens again when either pressure is equalised I.e letting off the throttle or when the gasses in the block exceed the vacuum from the tip and it forces the diaphram off its seat to release the excess pressure
So another words your best leaving it on :smiley:
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Please explain to me what makes the auq special and why you can remove the puck valve??
The split-r valve is in the correct place and leave the puck where it is.
Do as stated and report back :smiley:
Why don't you enlighten us all as you clearly know it all ?????
I thought the idea of a forum was to give and receive advise but I must be wrong and we all only need to ask you all we need to know
:huh:
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To D@nCer I have to apologise as I seem to be wrong about the istallation of the split-r as its designed differently to the 007p.
You have it the right way round but I would still change it or a recirc 007 008 :smiley:
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Did you follow this guide??
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=113646.0
This is the one to use :wink:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
So I can delete all the SAI/N249/PCV and leave the EVAP part intact..
resister the plugs and it wont throw any CEL on? how do I go about getting it coded out? Vagcom?
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I would delete all the can, including the charcoal canister. Another good source of a boost leak.
I would also plug the tip and vent the catch can under the car.
If you do the above you will reduce the chance of quite a few boost leaks.
And I would also change the split r for the new superceeded Vw OE 710n DV.
The difference it made after changing over a forge 008 was noticeable. I guarantee your forge valve leaks boost.
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I would delete all the can, including the charcoal canister. Another good source of a boost leak.
I would also plug the tip and vent the catch can under the car.
If you do the above you will reduce the chance of quite a few boost leaks.
And I would also change the split r for the new superceeded Vw OE 710n DV.
The difference it made after changing over a forge 008 was noticeable. I guarantee your forge valve leaks boost.
whats this now? i thought that even the Car Gods swore by the two forge options? how much is the one you stated?
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You should have a blank that replaces the trumpet to turn your dv into a recirc one.
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You should have a blank that replaces the trumpet to turn your dv into a recirc one.
I've tried it blanked off it makes no difference when we boost leak tested it...
Besides I had 0 zero issues before PCV mods.
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Can't find any info on how to turn off or map out the N valves and Sai... Anyone know how to do it.. Don't want CEL coming on at all..
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I used the resistors and all is good mate
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I used the resistors and all is good mate
awesome mate.. ill start ordering the parts :) thanks for the info
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Just been having a look about at resisters and found this..
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=296476 (http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=296476)
Is that just 1 guys paranoia or is there truth behind it frying ECU's?
I know minimal shizz about electronics and resistance.. but it makes sense.
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yerh as said junk all the pcv system its a waste of time