GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: golfyste on 09 February 2013, 23:20
-
Ok so I currently have a arz in the track car but will be doing a me7.5 conversion.
I know about the lambda but the the only thing I'm thinking about is that the arz doesn't have a traction control button and I imagine getting the loom for it spliced in is a pita!
So is it possible to just map out the traction control so it is always off?(as I always turn it off anyway!)
Cheers
-
What's the benefit if converting it?? (Sorry no help from me on this one!!)
-
More mapping capabilities I think, wide band lambda, vvt and not sure if r-tech tiv+ works on me7.1
Not to sure :laugh:
-
I see....So how hard to convert?? (Don't meat to throw thread off topic)
-
That sort of is the topic :laugh:
I'm not 100% sure but from what I have gathered its the engine loom including lambdas and also the aum cams for the vvt (i'm guessing) haha
-
A lot of money!
-
Well the current engine is knackered so could buy a aum with loom etc and then I will be going agu head ect.
Is there anything else needed apart from the Ecu, vvt cam, loom with lambdas?
-
sensors across the whole engine.
-
Yeah was including them in the loom.
Is it just straight plug and play with all that? :smiley:
-
Electric throttle pedal?
New loom for ECU - pedal is so
Sensors - MAF
both lambdas
ECU
etc.
-
Arz is already dbw!
Runnin me7.1 :smiley:
So same maf etc I think.
Unless I'm missing something and the arz electric throttle pedal is different :undecided:
-
me7-7.5 is much easier than 3.8-7.5 Chris, he just needs to add the lamda wiring and you're off I believe. Don't even need the full me7.5 loom.
Whilst you're doing the conversion, I'd be half tempted to get the EGT setup and loom from an AMK/BAM car and run full eGT control as well and use a BAM file as a starting point for the map.
ESP can be coded out completely yes to answer your original question :)
-
me7-7.5 is much easier than 3.8-7.5 Chris, he just needs to add the lamda wiring and you're off I believe. Don't even need the full me7.5 loom.
Whilst you're doing the conversion, I'd be half tempted to get the EGT setup and loom from an AMK/BAM car and run full eGT control as well and use a BAM file as a starting point for the map.
ESP can be coded out completely yes to answer your original question :)
Always a massive help prawn' :smiley:
Would it just be get a wideband lambda with 5 wires and then pin it into a certain place on the Ecu plug?
Also what about the vvt?
Don't reAlly know much about working with Ecus but willing to learn about anything!
Again with adding the egt sensor, would it just be easier to get a bam loom so I can have all the vvt, wideband and egt control without having to mess?
When you say use a bam file, would I need a bam Ecu or just for the mapper to load a bam map on as the base map?
And good to know about the ESP as I don't really want it anyway haha
Cheers mate
-
Look on some European shops and tuning websites, they sell a ready built loom for your 7.5 upgrade from a 6.8.x or 7.1.
My question is why do you want a 7.5 in there? Most 7.5 people end up tuning the drive by wire to work like a cable throttle, mimicking a cable throttle on the AGU, if your not going to use traction control then that's no different than a 3.8.x unit... only real advantage is VVT if your going to add that in. The stuff you want you can be map out. Can even map out additional Lambda sensor and EGT sensor and so on.
Only thing that the ME7.5 will really give you is VVT and Launch control, but launch control is a bit of a gimmick, as all it does is at a given rpm it will apply a load so you can launch of at full capacity, problem with this is, if the tires are better or worse than the launch control you won't get full potential and again same applies to wet/damp conditions, its not like your car knows what your tires are capable of or what the road conditions are.
Variable valve timing is VVT, it can be fitted to earlier 1.8T engines going by the vag catalogue as I was planning to get a AGU engine and breed it with a TT with a BAM engine, except just use the AGU engine with VVT in the TT with quattro on a 7.5 loom.
-
The main reason I'm wanting it is for the wideband lambda and the vvt.
The plan is eventually I will be pushing a k04hybrid or similar power turbo to its limits and I want to do it in as safe a way as possible. I know r-tech also have the tiv+ which I believe is for me7.5 only (may be wrong) but the tuning potential of the me7.5 compared to the me7 seems better and I'm wanting to do everything as well as I can with no cutting corners and even doing the little things if it makes a bit of a difference.
I'm not to bothered about launch control (although the new laugh control r-tech is doing sounds crazy :laugh:) but the new map switching on the standard Ecu may come in handy for wet track conditions and different drivers (me and my dad)
I will have a look for a ready made loom and may be a nice option depending on price! :smiley:
-
Do an ebay t3/4 kit jobby and get some rods in if your swapping the head, k04 hybrid seems like alot of money for not much gain, ask nick about what the t304 will do at very little boost :wink:
Downside of the t304 is so many variations, but it will make the 7.5 upgrade more worthwhile.
-
The engine is Going to be fully rebuilt probably using agu pistons and h beam rods new bearings and valves etc. using a agu head and manifold with aum cams for the vvt.
Why sort of rpm does the t3/4 spool
As I like the idea of up to 340+ hp and low rpm spool like is possible from the k04 hybrid.
-
the main benefit of me7.5 has to be the wideband lamda control!
Launch control is a cool feature, but obviously non essential, but wideband lamda is very worth having.
Also on a fwd car the new map switching options and gear based boost sound fantastic.
-
the main benefit of me7.5 has to be the wideband lamda control!
Launch control is a cool feature, but obviously non essential, but wideband lamda is very worth having.
Also on a fwd car the new map switching options and gear based boost sound fantastic.
so this wideband lamda whats this all about?
(ive been following this as i got the arz and i do like the idea of the RAW map ect but not really wantin to do the loom etc)
-
I can't give you the exact word by word description but it my precise and give more detail than the narrowband following the air ful mix through the rev range whereas te narrow just tells you if it's running lean.....something like that :laugh:
But I know mapping with it is safer therefore better.
I'm sure prawn can give you a full description!
-
Can buy a wideband lambda/gauge as I just got advised to buy and have bought. The innovate mtx-l, nice bit of kit. Got a AGU so just narrow band but with a big turbo so having afr gauge will really help for mapping and prempting any future fuel problems.
Much easier and better to have already tho :smiley:
-
narrow band lambda is slow to react and less accurate,
narrowband runs on 0-1v output, whereas wideband runs on 0-5v output. Narrowband tends to be only accurate just around or either side of stoich (14.7:1 AFR) and beyond this it's accuracy is poor.
In a narrowband car, on idle and cruise fuelling will be controlled by the lambda sensor in closed loop, but on full throttle the sensor is ignored and it runs open loop with no input from the sensor.
If something goes wrong at WOT in a narrowband car, the car knows very little about it, and will continue to kill itself.
on a wideband car, the lambda is still active at WOT, and if it sees fuel trims going astray it will try and fix them, or pull things back to save itself :)
-
^^^ that's what I meant :laugh:
-
narrow band lambda is slow to react and less accurate,
narrowband runs on 0-1v output, whereas wideband runs on 0-5v output. Narrowband tends to be only accurate just around or either side of stoich (14.7:1 AFR) and beyond this it's accuracy is poor.
In a narrowband car, on idle and cruise fuelling will be controlled by the lambda sensor in closed loop, but on full throttle the sensor is ignored and it runs open loop with no input from the sensor.
If something goes wrong at WOT in a narrowband car, the car knows very little about it, and will continue to kill itself.
on a wideband car, the lambda is still active at WOT, and if it sees fuel trims going astray it will try and fix them, or pull things back to save itself :)
thanks thats just explained it!!!
is it worth having for a daily that will only have the occasional blap now and then?
i drive like a granny most of the time :lipsrsealed: