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Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: alex1984 on 10 January 2013, 10:20

Title: Central locking problem...again
Post by: alex1984 on 10 January 2013, 10:20
Right after i got locked out of my car and the mission getting in the car was fine for about a month after resetting the central locking by disconecting the battery i now have lost all central locking...

The motor/solonoid in the boot has stopped working and i also cannot access the boot with the key as it seems to not work...? what can i do...?

i am tempted to but a retro fit central locking kit on ebay which connects a solonoid to each lock (i have a 3 door) rather than replace the one oin the boot...? what do you guys think and also how do i open the boot from the inside as presently i cannot access it...?

Thanks
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: trog_nfs on 10 January 2013, 10:43
checked the fuse?

You can get into the boot by pulling the rear seats down. I had to do this last year as the boot froze shut!
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: itavaltalainen on 10 January 2013, 12:57
How is the vacuum pump in boot not working?

There are few things to check why it's not working?

- fuse (as suggested)
- does it work from either of outside locks?
- does it come to life when you push down or pull up door pins?
- if still no luck then take the pump out, dismantle and check for moisture or corrosion on the PCB. This is quite often soaking wet if it is down in the spare wheel section and you had a leak somewhere, but also likes to corrode from just humidity.

- if corroded clean the PCB with some iso propyl alcohol (you can also use PCB cleaner from Maplins or elsewhere) using a toothbrush
- if board is clear measure if you get voltage to the supply line. (either use multimeter or a 5 or 10W 12V lamp)
(http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/96/2436/53900903/golf-3-zv-6935316720542054835.JPG)

still no luck?
-check for cold solder spots on the PCB and resolder connections if suspicious.
- check that you get a signal from the door micro switch on each side to the plug on the pump (this needs a multimeter as lamp may draw too much current for the small switch), see diagram above for wire colours.

if you get signal and voltages to there then the pump PCB will have a faulty component but I don't think that will be the case, normally it's just corrosion.
Should the pump pcb or pump mechanics be faulty just get a replacement from scrappy.... don't bother with the cheap motor driven central locking things off ebay (cheap parts often mechanically break).
remote addition to the original VW system is most reliable.
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: alex1984 on 10 January 2013, 13:15
over the last week the vacuum/solonoid noise when you lock the car has stayed on longer and longer unitl yesterday when it stopped working all together. The passenger side has a polo door handle so no lock and when i push and pull the drivers door pin only the drivers one works indicating that the central locking is not working.

Hope this helps
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: boneybradley on 10 January 2013, 13:30
over the last week the vacuum/solonoid noise when you lock the car has stayed on longer and longer unitl yesterday when it stopped working all together.

If that noise is from the boot then it's usually the motor that gone (and it sounds like yours has overworked and finally died!),
otherwise it can be an air leak in the system (door openings etc are very common for split hoses)
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: javalin on 10 January 2013, 14:22
worth checking that your rear lights aren't leaking - I had this and the water runs down over the pump, and over time destroyed the pump/controller PCB.

Worth looking on ebay for a scrap yard one, new is silly money.

James
Title: Re: Central locking problem...again
Post by: itavaltalainen on 10 January 2013, 14:34
you definitely have an air leak then... as bb said probably hose inside door sill - pull off the rubber and check. normally pump has a 30 sec time out to prevent motor from burning out. but all is possible....