GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: javalin on 02 January 2013, 19:53
-
Hello,
What do people use to do this, i.e. the connector on the throttle body? Pictures?
I want to leave the valve in place and electrically connected to stop the ECU logging a fault code.
ta,
James
-
I was actually about to post about this. Mine has been plugged in, but disconnected for a while now, and I want to get rid of it completely.
I hope you don't mind me hijacking this thread, but I too would like to know what's best to block the throttle body, and also what to use to block the pipe that runs from the fuel tank (I presume) to the canister.
-
My doesn't have one, never looked how though :grin:
-
Hiya Khare, no I don't mind. I had you in mind actually as I think I saw a thread recently where you said you'd done it.
Not fussed about the value->canister bits, just to stop the air intake into the throttle body.
Mine is obviously leaking somewhere as I got an code logged basically saying Lamdba at the limit of adaption - evap leak suggested on ross-tech. Unplugging it solved it, just generates a new code saying open circuit for evap value....
James
-
Mine has been unplugged for months and never throw up a code, how strange.
Tweed, go do me and Javalin a favour and tell us how yours is done :smiley:
-
I siliconed a small bolt into the throttle body vacuum outlet so that there were no air leaks, i did the same for the one beside it that used to run to hot air valve on the airbox.
Disconnecting the purge valve and canister didn't bring up any running issues or fault codes on mine.
-
I siliconed a small bolt into the throttle body vacuum outlet so that there were no air leaks, i did the same for the one beside it that used to run to hot air valve on the airbox.
I plan to block both. I'll end up doing something along the lines of bolt and silicone probably.
I'm aiming for 170hp next month, need to get hold of a new airbox to work on.
-
I siliconed a small bolt into the throttle body vacuum outlet so that there were no air leaks, i did the same for the one beside it that used to run to hot air valve on the airbox.
I tapped the larger take-off (to Evap system) M8, and studlocked a M8 bolt in it, I removed the smaller take-off and tapped the TB casting M5 and studlocked an M5 bolt in there.
Nice and neat...and no leaks.
Disconnecting the purge valve and canister didn't bring up any running issues or fault codes on mine.
Same here.
-
Tapping them out properly is what will be done to mine when i finally get around to whipping off the intake manifold for refurbishment.
-
Does the hose from the tank to the canister remain unblocked?
-
Mine is just hanging down in the void where the canister used to be clipped to the plastic bracket. I snapped the inlet off thecanister on removal so its still on the end of the hose albeit with a tiny bit of gauze over the end just to help stop too much crap going up inside it as its obviously pointing down near the road.
-
Cool, will find something to cover it to stop stuff going in (but fumes out).
-
Is there actually any benefit in doing this?
-
Yeah you ditch all the useless emissions crap from the bay which is well past its efficient best anyway. You also have a quieter bay due to the loss of the annoying tapping that is created by the purge valve. Some people have also commented that their carbon canisters also made unwanted noises.
-
Out of interest this is the code I get - AGG engine with Simos ECU
01247 - Activated Charcoal Filter (EVAP) System Solenoid Valve 1 (N80)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
This is the code I got leading to the removal of the evap value:
00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
19-10 - Lower Limit - Intermittent
-
This is how I did mine. Not tested yet but should be fine. Did the other end (to the canister) the same way, so the valve is completely disconnected pipe-wise.
http://javalins.wordpress.com/2013/01/06/evap-pipe-plug/ (http://javalins.wordpress.com/2013/01/06/evap-pipe-plug/)