GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Rossco250 on 11 December 2012, 21:04
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Whats the best way to get it out??
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Why were you taking that bolt out?
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Why were you taking that bolt out?
Does it matter why? It's snapped and needs a answer.
I use bolt extractors. You need to drill a hole the the bolt. Then then turn the extractor in the hole you drilled. The thread is opposite, so as you turn and tighten the extractor anticlockwise the bolt should undo.
They look like this
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5509183161_be5ea3cae3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/)
Photo0374 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
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Why were you taking that bolt out?
Does it matter why? It's snapped and needs a answer.
I use bolt extractors. You need to drill a hole the the bolt. Then then turn the extractor in the hole you drilled. The thread is opposite, so as you turn and tighten the extractor anticlockwise the bolt should undo.
They look like this
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5509183161_be5ea3cae3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/)
Photo0374 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
Would like to see you drill through high tensile steel on a crank tbh... Especially when you think thats a pritty f**king tight and large bolt too. And obvioulsy snapped with a socket on it and probably a huge bar. So an easy out and vice grips wouldnt cut in my opinion....
And reason i asked was because i had a feeling he was maybe thinking that crank bolt was for taking the bottom aux belt pulley off to get the bottom timing cover off. Iv seen people think that when they take out the allen key bolts but the aux pulley still wont come off because its seized to the crank pulley. So thats why Tweed i asked my question... So i grand sceme of things... Could actually matter.
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Drilling the crank bolt won't be a problem with decent HSS/HSCO drill(s) as long as a) you notice when or if you've blunted the drill and need to put a new one in and b) you have a very steady hand. Finding a decent easy-out which is both strong and flexible enough to get the bolt out, however, will be tricky.
If you use an easy-out, use a long tap wrench on it so you apply (almost) only rotational force along the axis of the tool; this is why it has flats on it.
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Drilling the crank bolt won't be a problem with decent HSS/HSCO drill(s) as long as a) you notice when or if you've blunted the drill and need to put a new one in and b) you have a very steady hand. Finding a decent easy-out which is both strong and flexible enough to get the bolt out, however, will be tricky.
If you use an easy-out, use a long tap wrench on it so you apply (almost) only rotational force along the axis of the tool; this is why it has flats on it.
I still have a feeling you will struggle with it being that tight. Im still to find a decent set of easyouts.. Snap on ones are pish...
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Aux pulley wheel off, crank toothed wheel off, in a vice, left handed drill or drill through from other side with smaller drill + lots of propriety paraffin formula.
Be prepared to drill out fubarred thread and drill and tap up a size, I have had to do this many times.
Make sure any new bolts are not too long....
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Yeah I agree. I bought a set of Clarke easy-outs (I know :rolleyes:) and snapped one into a bolt with the smallest of force. An HSS drill pissed through it when getting it back out, so I drilled the whole bolt out in the end and ran a tap back down the thread.
To get this crank bolt out, you could drill and tap a left-hand thread into it and find a 12.9 bolt to fit, tighten it up and heat the area around the bolt.
There are a few potential solutions but none of them are easy :undecided:
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It is going to be a complete ballache to get that bolt out, good luck.
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If its the one of the 4 small bolts (6/8mm) that hold the aux pulley on you will make a royal mess with an easy out.
Take the toothed wheel off and do it properly.
Engineers don't use easy outs on anything other than pipe, there are easier ways to get things out without breaking 58Rc bits of steel off in important bits of kit
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Why were you taking that bolt out?
Does it matter why? It's snapped and needs a answer.
I use bolt extractors. You need to drill a hole the the bolt. Then then turn the extractor in the hole you drilled. The thread is opposite, so as you turn and tighten the extractor anticlockwise the bolt should undo.
They look like this
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5509183161_be5ea3cae3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/)
Photo0374 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
Would like to see you drill through high tensile steel on a crank tbh... Especially when you think thats a pritty f**king tight and large bolt too. And obvioulsy snapped with a socket on it and probably a huge bar. So an easy out and vice grips wouldnt cut in my opinion....
And reason i asked was because i had a feeling he was maybe thinking that crank bolt was for taking the bottom aux belt pulley off to get the bottom timing cover off. Iv seen people think that when they take out the allen key bolts but the aux pulley still wont come off because its seized to the crank pulley. So thats why Tweed i asked my question... So i grand sceme of things... Could actually matter.
He's drilling a bolt not a high tensile steel crank numb nuts!
The head of bolt would have snapped off, so it won't be tight any more. It's just a thread in a hole.
What do you think drills are made of, chewing gum?
Use metal drills with cutting fluid to keep it cool.
Your question still means nothing! Even if he didn't need to undo it, he still has snapped it and needs it removed.
So if my way is wrong and you doubt it will solve it, maybe in your next post tell us how to get it out!
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Why were you taking that bolt out?
Does it matter why? It's snapped and needs a answer.
I use bolt extractors. You need to drill a hole the the bolt. Then then turn the extractor in the hole you drilled. The thread is opposite, so as you turn and tighten the extractor anticlockwise the bolt should undo.
They look like this
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5509183161_be5ea3cae3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/)
Photo0374 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/5509183161/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
Would like to see you drill through high tensile steel on a crank tbh... Especially when you think thats a pritty f**king tight and large bolt too. And obvioulsy snapped with a socket on it and probably a huge bar. So an easy out and vice grips wouldnt cut in my opinion....
And reason i asked was because i had a feeling he was maybe thinking that crank bolt was for taking the bottom aux belt pulley off to get the bottom timing cover off. Iv seen people think that when they take out the allen key bolts but the aux pulley still wont come off because its seized to the crank pulley. So thats why Tweed i asked my question... So i grand sceme of things... Could actually matter.
He's drilling a bolt not a high tensile steel crank numb nuts!
The head of bolt would have snapped off, so it won't be tight any more. It's just a thread in a hole.
What do you think drills are made of, chewing gum?
Use metal drills with cutting fluid to keep it cool.
Your question still means nothing! Even if he didn't need to undo it, he still has snapped it and needs it removed.
So if my way is wrong and you doubt it will solve it, maybe in your next post tell us how to get it out!
You actually speak utter pish.... Classic case of a keyboard warrior who seems to think he knows all and everything but has obviously put very little into practice....
I merely gave my input to your solution.
Its gonna be a total ball ache no matter what you do. Worst case scenario iv seen cranks removed and have to be machined out.
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I never comment on a thread when I have no experience on the matter.
So what is your solution to removing the bolt?
Try helping the lad
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Hopefully you can remove the pulley now it's snapped? Is the thread itself free?
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I never comment on a thread when I have no experience on the matter.
So what is your solution to removing the bolt?
Try helping the lad
Tbh re-reading the thread it depends on which bolt. Because im assume hes on about the actually multi spline bolt the goes into the crank itself. If so, you could try driling it with some high quality drill bits but this is high tensile and re tap it. But that has risks itself. Or as you said, try and easy out. But as iv said, if its tight enough to snap in first place good luck...But as iv also said, thats even harder in my opinion. Worst case, get it machined out. But then you have to ask if thats even worth the hastle.
If its an aux allen bolt, bit easier. But you will need to take it off the the toothed pulley and put it in the vice. As allready said :rolleyes:
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Got any pics mate? If literally the head has snapped I'd remove the pully put a grinder line down the middle of the bolt sticking out and turn with a thin flat bar.
All depends really. Thing is, it's not something you want coming loose so you don't want to wreck the thread.
Just thought actually if it has snapped it must be tight in the thread unless you were doing it up as apposed to loosening it in which case I'd probably not use extractors as I'd hazard a guess that that would snap just as easy. I would drill bigger and put a thicker bolt in personally.
Saaaying that my dad has some pretty damned decent extractors. I'll try find out the make Screech. Far better than snap on. They're a fair few years old though.
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The spline bolt is 14 x1 iirc which if seized could make it mega stuck.
Drilling down the centre will help but you have to be super straight and close to the edge to release it.
Fine threads have a bigger core diameter so you can trash the female thread proper easy if you go off centre.
Utter ball ache to do and best off in a vice as no room underneath, you can get the crank out in car but is tricky and best off with a mate and a few bits of wood and ties to wedge the pistons.
Chance it if you feel lucky, if your not you know how to do it properly :grin:
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I wasnt taking the bolt out mate. it snapped while i was driving :cry: Not sure if its done any internal damage... so i need to get the other half of the bolt out so i can get the new one in and connect my belts up again to see if it has done any real damage.. Are these bolts reverse thread?
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Thanks for all the responses lads. Will try getting a pic up in the morning..
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And yes i'm talking about the big mutha in the middle that goes into the crank :cry:
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I wasnt taking the bolt out mate. it snapped while i was driving :cry: Not sure if its done any internal damage... so i need to get the other half of the bolt out so i can get the new one in and connect my belts up again to see if it has done any real damage.. Are these bolts reverse thread?
Ouch ouch ouch!!! Chances of the timing not jumping after that happening are very slim!! Would defo say valve + engine damage unfortunatly! :sad:
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Ouch ouch ouch!!! Chances of the timing not jumping after that happening are very slim!! Would defo say valve + engine damage unfortunatly! :sad:
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Yeah thats what i thought mate.. gonna see if i can get a decent easy-out on saturday. Cant seem to find a new bolt anywhere though.. Would i have to order a whole crankshaft pulley kit?
Looks like my engine conversion might be happening sooner than i thought if the valves are knackered!!
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Got her in the garage on monday.... 6 of the 8 valves are bent!! :cry:
Going to pick up a new engine today and my mechanic is gonna swap the heads and give it a good service :smiley:
looking at £300-£600 for the lot.
I know it seems alot to spend on an 8v but i aint gonna get a better car for that sort of money
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How about buy a 8v engine for £50 and swap it over yourself?
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I don't have the time or experience mate :sad:
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Ain't got one day over Xmas? Don't need much experience tbh.
You can do a vr6 conversion for that money too. I'm sure you can buy everything you need for about £300.
Worth a think and look on eBay
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I only get 2 days off for Xmas :sad:
She is already in the garage with her head off too,
Might do an engine upgrade next year though... I've only been driving for six months so couldnt afford to insure a vr6 lump yet. Was thinking more like a 20vt :smiley: