GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Deefadog on 18 July 2005, 15:17
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OK, i have just followed GVK's set up guide (top sticky), i had a few problems:
Engine up to temps!
1) - With red lead and breather (blocked) disconnected
I could not get the revs to 950 + 50, the best it would go was 840, any more and the idle screw would have fallen out!
2) - Every time i went to insert my 3mm allen key to adjust the Co, as soon as the allen key was in, the car would cut out, i had not even turned it!
Any ideas guyz?
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Is it the oil breater hose that you are disconecting? Is your setup completely standard?
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Yes it's the oil breather, and yes engine is standard!
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It's possible that someone has been fiddling with or not setup the basic setting on the throttle body ( small thread with small nut ) or that it's running far too weak . The mixture allen screw is extremely sensitive and requires the very slightest of movements to increase the mixture :wink:
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Thanks
throttle body ( small thread with small nut )
Do you meant the idle screw?
Also is the CO screw on a spring or something? or is it just like the idle screw? as if it's like the idle screw it maybe that the CO screw is all the way out of the thread and when i put the allen key on it it pushes it down and blocks the hole?
Also can you see the CO screw feom under the metering head, could it have broken or something?
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I've also had problems setting up my 16v following the thread.
In the end I had it set up at a garge using an emissions analyser!!
it runs sweet as a nut now!!
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I thought i had it seup from a VW expert, but when i had my MOT, the CO imissions were 0.35%!
I am guessing that the CO immisions are the same as what is set at the CO screw?? please correct me if i am wrong (i often am) :)
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sorry to hijack but.... I had mine set up by a mobile mechanic co was at 2 but tried following the same instructions yesterday and my idle is around 350 and the idle screw does sweet fa! Co still at 2???
Car stinks of fuel when setting off and overtaking apparently and going through more fuel than a Nasa rocket!
I think we all need a 16v nut with a really good knowledge, just keep telling yourself how old it is and that you don't see many cars of this age still rolling around happily!
Still makes me smile tho!
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Yep i know :) There is a 16V process somewhere on clubgti i have been told, i need this to find out what each bit does, then i can logically find faults easier!
Drove the car to work this morning and everything was fine :) idled perfect, it seems what ever i do to the idle screw and CO screw it makes no difference! how strange.
The only thing i have not changed is the ECU - i bet that waht maybe causing all this!
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I've been heading down those lines! my local scrappers has shelfs full so might get one and try it if you need one as well give me a holler on pm!
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PM sent :)
Just found this- http://www.gti16v.org/wd88-120.htm#wd88-120
But i don't think i have a thermal time switch? do i?
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Right guys I'm looking down the lines of a fueling problem after bombing around vortex and clubgti forums seems to be a common problem.
http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=64991&PN=1&TPN=1
so off to the garage at lunchtime to try and get it checked out will post results in an hour or so!
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Good, let us know!
Where is the The Auxiliary Air Valve? is it also know as the over run cut off switch? :http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm#MFI12
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Well been to the local garages at lunchtime and got a number for a 16v specialist who used to tune them for rallying! so may well have an answer after Bugjam back Monday and booked in for Tuesday but pointers still needed guys. Looking like a fuelling issue more and more so going to try and get a pressure gauge fitted to check it 48 psi apparently!
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Do'h bloody thing keeps dipping to 200rpm now and then catching back up again alternator light flickers and goes off and when starting bat light is on until I blip the trottle why oh why!!!
Dropped a clanger didn't take tues off so may reschedule to monday :laugh:
brick wall + head = temporary solution!!! :laugh: :laugh: :cry: :cry:
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Does it do this just on start up?
Try disconnecting the WUR electrial connection and see if that helps.
It has cured my sort of - what i do is start the car, revs go to around a 1000 then dip to 300-400ish (don't touch anything) leave it rumble and it should level out, then leave it for about 2 mins and see if that works, does for me :)
I even tried another isv module today and it's the same, so i know i can at least rule that out!
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No mate does it constantly now on my way into work this morning stalled twice and threatened to too many times going as low as 150rpm :angry: but I haven't even changed anything yet! just getting worse.
So far this is what I've found and done to her.
ISV is working ok revs plummet when pipe is blocked and it buzzes.
Air filter cleaned and re oiled.
Airways to throttle body cleaned out.
throttle body clean as a whistle!
Alternator rumbles every now and then but still a good charge.
No obvious fuel leaks.
Fuel pump pressurises in a couple of seconds on startup
WUR (CSV?) disconnected no difference whatsoever
Dizzy cap and rotor arm changed
CO sat at 2.0 on hot idle
timing fine (allegedly)
Stinks of fuel when flooring it.
160 miles to a full tank
lack of power when first started and sounds like it's misfiring
stalled out after first start this morning
tried another isv no change
Not sure about Vaccuum lines?
Idles at 350 rpm with red lead disconnected and won't rev without dying.
Idle screw is just for decoration and does nothing!
co screw, not touched it
battery holding good charge
Tappets tapping away for first 10 minutes,
This is really beginning to get on my thrupney bits now anybody want to buy a golf gti 16v going to scrappers soon lol :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :grin:
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Mmmmmm
I would next change all the earth starps, could be something stupid as a bad earth!
try disconnecting the "over run cut off" eletrical connector. see if any improvement is seen!
get hold of another isv module (the one behind the center console)
try another ecu, as we already talked about!
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OK, update on this saga :)
After all the swapping of parts it turned out my C0 was set at 0.15% - so the car was running very lean - got it set at 0.80% and the car is purring and everything seems to be working fully! I know from the experts here, that the C0 should be set to 2.0% - but my car seems to run brilliantly at 0.80% - Does anyone know why this is?
Also if i am correct, the k-jet delivers a constant flow of petrol through the injectors all of the time, and it's the WUR which sets the pressure of the flow. Then the mixture screw (C0) - sets the amount of air to be mixed with the petrol - is this correct?