GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: 67buggers on 13 November 2012, 14:35
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Right im gearing up to fitting my camber shims but the instructions for them are useless! My shims are double skinned so do i remove sections from both skins? Also when i decide how much tow and camber i want do i remove sections for each number on the dial, for example if i go with 20/20 do i line up the outer 20 and snip the sections out then line up the inner 20 and snip out those sections?....... Im not explaining this well!
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Do not do 20/20. Get your rear toe measured and see what it is and where it needs to be than adjust the shims to suit.
Then leave it together put it on vw hub bolt pattern and cut out what you don't need. Use a stanly knife.
I would get my toe measured but I can't lol
Ill get mine out tonight and tell you what I'm going to do.
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Ok cool. When i cut out what i dont need do i have to cut out bits for the camber then the tow ?
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You sound like your confused :laugh:
When you planning on doing this? I will take some pics later or Saturday as I need to do mine. And ill be able to get mine bang on with the wheel off.
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Camber shim settings!
Driver side I'm having 17-17
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8343/8183036205_64b6616f28_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/8183036205/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/8183036205/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
Passenger side I'm having 23-23
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8183075442_51e357a060_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/8183075442/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/59145949@N03/8183075442/) by tweedub (http://www.flickr.com/people/59145949@N03/), on Flickr
As you can see I put the numbers I want to the arrow on the chart, then with the chart markings I will cut out the tabs with a sharp stanly knife. Take your time when cutting them out. Cut down the sides then repeatedly bend the tab so it snaps.
When fit them, job done!
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Confused ain't the word but think your pics have sorted me cheers dude........ How come your having different settings?
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Because 20-20 is -1.5 camber and 0 toe, when the rear beam is at standard height. So when you lower the beam it puts it out to more like -1.2 camber and 0.3 toe in each side.
I didn't think of this at the time and made the error.
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So does 17 and 23 sort the tow and give 1.5 camber? I didnt realise the shims moved! Lol hence my confusion!!
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Yes mate that's if your low though.
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ATM the rear aint that low maybe 40mm, plan is to get some camber on and roll the archs to let me go lower
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Well maybe you should go 18-18 driver side and 22-22 passenger side. Keep the numbers facing you when fitting them.
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Nice one tweed ill go with that then
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Ive obviously missed something here but why would you set each axle at different shim angles, surely they should be the same both sides? :huh:
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Ive obviously missed something here but why would you set each axle at different shim angles, surely they should be the same both sides? :huh:
Just thinking the same :undecided:
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Come on lads :laugh:
20-20 is the thinnest the shim can be (top) so 0-0 is the thickest it can be (bottom)
But when you fit them at 20-20 and the lower the beam 20-20 is no longer at the top and gives you some toe.
So you then have to turn the shim so 20-20 is at the top when the beam is lowered. Hence why you have different numbers either side but its the same camber and toe setting. Numbers always facing you.
Has that made it easier to understand?
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I kinda got it now. :rolleyes:
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It's no where near rocket science :rolleyes:
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Nope I am still confused :laugh: :grin:
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Think of the shim as a clock face. Hold to driver side rear with 12 at the top and you get 3 pointing to front of car.
Take it to passenger rear with 12 at the top and 9 points to the front of car.
So if you twist both clocks to back of car by one hour driver side will have 1 at the top, passenger side will have 11 at the top.
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Basically you mirror whatever is on the other side.
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Think of the shim as a clock face. Hold to driver side rear with 12 at the top and you get 3 pointing to front of car.
Take it to passenger rear with 12 at the top and 9 points to the front of car.
So if you twist both clocks to back of car by one hour driver side will have 1 at the top, passenger side will have 11 at the top.
Got you now :afro:
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So, 20 would be the setting on the shim at a standard height? Lowering a car with a rear beam set up swings the beam forward/upward and this in turn changes the degree of the mounting surface 'turning' the drivers side clockwise slightly? Counterclockwise on the passenger side? If so, this makes sense to me where you are referring to 23 and 17 settings, as they'll both 'match' either side. If, what I'm understanding, is correct??
This all accounts for matching the camber, but where does the toe come into this? Would you have to have the settings to say (now this is just a random set of numbers) 17 outer ring, 19 inner make a difference to the toe, hence you using 17-17 and 23-23 respectively.
It's a barrage of questions, I know, but just trying to wrap my head around it.
Cheers,
Carl
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Yes all that is right mate. Your understanding is bang on.
The only reason I don't want 17-19 is the fact it will give less camber as the top of shim is now slightly thicker and bottom thinner.
Hence my 17-17 and 23-23
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I know they're not an expensive purchase so I may just grab a set as theory is much more difficult to work out than holding something in your hands.
Thank you kindly for the verification though.