GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: devilscaff on 09 November 2012, 19:14
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I'v just been given a stainless manifold for my valver,my whole car is standard at the moment after six months of putting things right.It's going in next week for a rolling road full tune up and have been told it will help the engine out and get somewhere near the original power hopefully. Just want to know is it an easy job to get it out or is there a lot of stuff to be removed or should I not bother?
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Can be a ball ache if you snap off the bolts in the head, and down pipe can be a bit tricky to manoeuvre.
Worth doing imo.
Is the down pipe built in or do you need to fit existing one? if so might be worth a new dp to save future knuckle flesh if its old or of unknown parentage :grin:
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The down pipe is one piece with the manifold, does it make that much difference PKU I hope it won't be to niosey as really not after that I'm 41yrs old lol
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i wouldnt bother, unless you get a quality one, and if theres nowt wrong with the one youve got then why bother, ive got one on my g60 and its cack got a g60 manifold and downpipe to replace it with.
it can turn into a pig of a job so id say if it aint broke dont fix it. :smiley:
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I've got it booked in at an exhaust centre on mon morning, I know the bolts come undone I cheques them all so now I'm still not sure what to do?
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If its a good one you will see some gains especially when combined with other mods.
You will get a different engine note, maybe more of a rasp but noise is controlled by the silencers on your current system so you wont sound any more like a 17 year old than you do now.
As said it can be a ball ache if your doing it yourself but if its going up on a ramp its a lot easier.
Does it have a flexi section and how good are your engine mounts? this is important for obvious reasons :wink:
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yep got to have a flexi! vag downpipes have the flexis build in so you will have to make sure you have one or get one fitted.
mine has one and again its cack! but maybe im just having a bad do with it.
a lot eaiser if someone else does it ! :smiley:
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Get a pic up of the manifold some are pretty bad fits, esp ebay jobs. Id only look at fitting a tsr/milltek item
there is not much gains to be had on a std 1.8 the std item flows quite well.
Its a pig to remove old and fit new though, and more so if bolts are seized. Id be inclined to replace all manifold studs at same time
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It does have flexi but I'm starting to doubt weather or not to open this can of worms might just get the tune done and see what happens.
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If the manifold aint blowing id leave it well alone. Its a big job. The only way to remove the downpipe is to eithe drop subframe or else cut it in half below the downpipe flange above steering rack
If you cut it then to fit new one inlet manifold and gubbins all has to come off as manifold needs passed down from above engine
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Thanks for the advice gonna cancel the garage and use the money on something in car related for a change!! Lol
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With only a home-built tubular manifold on DannyP's ABF put out +170bhp a couple of years ago.
Jus' sayin' like. :whistle:
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Where are you taking it to get setup? Look for somewhere that has kjet knowledge and do the WUR mod on your car.
Have you done compression test on it etc?
With a wur mod you can get 150bhp on an otherwise std 1.8 16v if its in good health
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It's going to a place called T&M's in Colchester been advised there the place to go locally there old Boys with old skills, what is the wur?
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Wur is detailed here
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=31611.0
wur = warm up regulator. Its attached to side of head just below isv and beside dizzy, has two fuel lines running to it
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Ok cheers il see what they do and let you know
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With only a home-built tubular manifold on DannyP's ABF put out +170bhp a couple of years ago.
Jus' sayin' like. :whistle:
Was this home-build manifold tested before & after at the same dyno? The original cast manifold isn't going to stop you getting to 170bhp if other work has been done.
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Its academic TBH we had experimented with loads of manifolds in the day and we found the material was the key! Some stainless is too hard due to the compound material some used and the vibration caused cracking and splits over time. This is why there is as mentioned a flexi pipe to absorb any vibrations from the engine.
We finally decided that a stock cast iron mani reacted best with the resonated frequency from the block caused the least damage over time. As for performance wrapping the heat away from the engine bay made more difference than sticking an over sized manifold when the car didn’t need it at all!
The worst bunch was the Chrome ones they were just horriable to the core and reacted badly with resonated frequency. I'm guessing this is why most stock manifolds are cast iron?
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Cast parts are cheap.
Though these days robot-welded manifolds are now replacing the cast items.
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With only a home-built tubular manifold on DannyP's ABF put out +170bhp a couple of years ago.
Jus' sayin' like. :whistle:
This.
Got a reliable 12bhp on a KR with a Manifold and ported inlet about 12 years ago, is ball ache but thats what owning a MK2 is about is it not :grin:
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I was never really after massive hp difference, if I want power iv got enough in my mk5. Just thought it would help, cancelled the exhaust centre. Just want the car to run as smoothe as it can and fuel efficient.
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Could say in the Mk5 you also have weight though :laugh:
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Only if I'm in it!!
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Nice exhaust is all you need. Keep front box get rid of centre box, supersprint do a connecter pipe to the backbox.