GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => General discussion => Topic started by: whileoceanasleeps on 05 November 2012, 13:17
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my d/s sill is a bit rusty underneath and it's a little caved in where I put the jack. just wondering if this is something that will fail an mot? everything else is in good order I think
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Probably will fail, especially if it's not too far away from a seatbelt mount.
You should scrap it.
HTHs.
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seatbelt mount? it's next to the front wheel :huh:
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Is it the actual cill or part of the front wing?
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seatbelt mount? it's next to the front wheel :huh:
Oh right - corroded jacking point, or suspension mounting point then.
Scrap it.
HTHs
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Unless its a 16v in which case the mk2 boys will want the engine. :whistle:
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Unless its a 16v in which case the mk2 boys will want the engine. :whistle:
This is part of the 'scrap it' message.
Obviously.
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Had to get 3 bits on mine sorted for it to go through the mot.
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I had advisories on both sills on my Mk3 for 3 years running before I got mine done.
This was where all 4 jacking points had been squashed up and in one case pushed in!
I would scrape off the surface rust and paint with underseal and you will be fine.
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I had advisories on both sills on my Mk3 for 3 years running before I got mine done.
This was where all 4 jacking points had been squashed up and in one case pushed in!
I would scrape off the surface rust and paint with underseal and you will be fine.
thanks ill try that!
bad luck the rest of ya it's an 8v!!! go scrap yerselves :laugh:
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Any excessive corrosion within 30cm of a prescribed area (suspension or seatbelt mountings) should fail.
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Any excessive corrosion within 30cm of a prescribed area (suspension or seatbelt mountings) should fail.
Had to patch up my sills as it was corroded within 30cm of the B-pillar as well as it weakens the chassis, so they say.
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I'm thinking I might have to do something about mine soon. They're fine at the back but the front jacking points were an advisory on it's last MOT. Might just scrape off the surface rust, quick splash of rust treatment then underseal for the time being to prevent it getting worse. I also have some rust on the sill where the door rubber goes. Someone has tried to bodge it up before and done a sh!t job lol! Might just try and clean it and redo.
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I'm thinking I might have to do something about mine soon. They're fine at the back but the front jacking points were an advisory on it's last MOT. Might just scrape off the surface rust, quick splash of rust treatment then underseal for the time being to prevent it getting worse. I also have some rust on the sill where the door rubber goes. Someone has tried to bodge it up before and done a sh!t job lol! Might just try and clean it and redo.
It's all well and said taking the easy way out, but what about when the day comes your stuck outside and you need to jack your car up and your cills arnt strong enough?
If the car is a keeper get new cills welded in.
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I may not have had it too long but I already know never to jack a Mk3 on the sills lol! I will get it done eventually, just haven't the funds at the moment nor the skills/equipment to do it myself. Thinking of doing a welding course at the local college.
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I had advisories on both sills on my Mk3 for 3 years running before I got mine done.
This was where all 4 jacking points had been squashed up and in one case pushed in!
I would scrape off the surface rust and paint with underseal and you will be fine.
thanks ill try that!
bad luck the rest of ya it's an 8v!!! go scrap yerselves :laugh:
I did say SURFACE rust - if its any worse than that then you may need patches welded in on complete new sills.
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I'm thinking I might have to do something about mine soon. They're fine at the back but the front jacking points were an advisory on it's last MOT. Might just scrape off the surface rust, quick splash of rust treatment then underseal for the time being to prevent it getting worse. I also have some rust on the sill where the door rubber goes. Someone has tried to bodge it up before and done a sh!t job lol! Might just try and clean it and redo.
It's all well and said taking the easy way out, but what about when the day comes your stuck outside and you need to jack your car up and your cills arnt strong enough?
If the car is a keeper get new cills welded in.
There are a few other places to jack up a car from!
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It will pass if any holes are hidden by the sill covers and said sill covers are secure enough that said MOT man cant have a look, if any holes are visible then you are screwed.
If its got rusty sill, bent jacking points then you need new sills, patches will rot through in no time at all and you will need another jack to get under the car.
Unless you are Jamo or Tshirt then rotten sills means your car will never be a keeper due to the cost involved to put it right.
When you go see a Mk3 always feel the jacking points first, if they are bent and rusty walk away.
You will walk away from 95% of Mk3's :grin:
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What cost?
My new sills cost me £37 plus £150 labour.
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I'm thinking I might have to do something about mine soon. They're fine at the back but the front jacking points were an advisory on it's last MOT. Might just scrape off the surface rust, quick splash of rust treatment then underseal for the time being to prevent it getting worse. I also have some rust on the sill where the door rubber goes. Someone has tried to bodge it up before and done a sh!t job lol! Might just try and clean it and redo.
It's all well and said taking the easy way out, but what about when the day comes your stuck outside and you need to jack your car up and your cills arnt strong enough?
If the car is a keeper get new cills welded in.
There are a few other places to jack up a car from!
True, but my point is if it's a keeper treat it like a keeper :smiley:
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What cost?
My new sills cost me £37 plus £150 labour.
And you don't even have to get them painted professionally if you keep the sill covers.
Mine aren't anywhere near as bad as some peoples on here though, they're rusty but still fairly solid and no holes. They will do for the time being but I will likely get them seen to sometime next year.
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Stonechip and waxoil them. Keep good for ages
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i havent had the trim off yet but just had a feel underneath and there's a hole in the floor.. im thinking definitely not a mot pass now! darnit.. what are my options? i can weld a bit and i work with a professional welder
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i havent had the trim off yet but just had a feel underneath and there's a hole in the floor.. im thinking definitely not a mot pass now! darnit.. what are my options? i can weld a bit and i work with a professional welder
Just weld it....i welded an entire sill on after not having done it in over 10 years since i was an apprentice and was easy. Just be stitch welding so you can't really go wrong if you work with a pro to keep you in check.
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so is it easier to weld a new sill on or just clean up and weld some 1mm sheet on top? only just searched eBay and couldn't find any sills for sale
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No its not easier putting a whole sill on I justed used that as an example of how easy it is in general. Depends how bas it is and what needs welded but you say the floor is rotted then that will need plated. Its just a matter of cutting out rust then replacing with new metal.
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think i'll plate it then, build it up. i've saved some pics from your build thread to help me.. :smiley:
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Just weld it....i welded an entire sill on after not having done it in over 10 years since i was an apprentice and was easy. Just be stitch welding so you can't really go wrong if you work with a pro to keep you in check.
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Your under selling yourself mate, that weld job you did looks tidy even for someone who does it everyday.
Most folks with basic welding skill will blow most of the metal away putting a sill in.
What cost?
My new sills cost me £37 plus £150 labour.
Sills are cheap but a £150 each or for the pair? and properly sealed and painted in?
Full cut out and weld in or weld over the top?
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I bought the sills myself as I originally intended to do them on my own.
But I got lazy and asked around and found this small place that did them for £150 cash.
They were fully cut out and seam welded. One side they had to pull down the inner flange/lip to meet the new sill.
Unpainted (I did do that myself!)
I picked the car up and took it straight away for its MOT test so was able to have a good look around them.
The MOT tester, also garage owner, who really likes my car said it was a good job (He also gave two years worth of the advisories on my sills) and actually knew the guy that did the work.
So I was more than happy.
I bought my sills from a panel parts place down near Melksham, Wilts they have changed their name recently so dont have the new website.
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soo finally got round to starting to sort this today, here's some pics..
bent bit of sill cut out
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file-2.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file-4.jpg)
started to cut rust hole out. rust wasn't as bad as i thought, still gotta work out how to do the back part.. the worst bit was that the sill was bent up for 80% of the length of the drivers door
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file-3.jpg)
made a new sill from some sheet that i bent and pressed and viced
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file-5.jpg)
should go on nicely, just gotta get the underneath bit sorted tomorrow. will put more pics up tomorrow!
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Are those John Deere overalls?
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yeah :grin: my best mate is a farmer
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done! i'm not going to post the photo of my stitch welding :cry: :cry: i found that really hard! practise makes perfect..
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/aksion/file-9.jpg)