GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: devilscaff on 27 October 2012, 19:47
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Been investigating slight starting problems, and saw one was moving slightly more than the others, how do you access them can't seem to get spanners in them. Or are they supposed to move?
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they push in and pull out on a 8v Digi once the retaining bolts (that hold the rail) have been removed
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Thanks but forgot to say its 16v or is it the same
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16ver use the old metal chrome type injectors 8vers would use green or grey tops usually plastic.
The seal has gone if they are loose I would order new seals before you go tugging hard on them!
scroll down some pictures on my project page even some with injector pictures!
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=170521.0 (http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=170521.0)
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Are you wobbling the actual injectors or the hose going to them?
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Thanks Clipperjay, once i'v got new ones will the others just pull without any tools?
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the whole thing wobbles while I hold the inector
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Thanks Clipperjay, once i'v got new ones will the others just pull without any tools?
Problem is some of the larger rubber rings have moulded it self to the collets (brass inserts)
I found the best way to remove them was push from inside out the manifold most people try really too hard and end up ripping off the end of the injector and falling into the manifold. For the sake of a gasket I took mine completely off and gentley pushed them out with a solid flat tool or wood piece. There are two rubber seals you need one thick donut one and a really thin one that sits on the end of the injector(see picture) these are the ones that are usually perished. I think donut ones are the hardest to pull out with the injector in and are the ones that is usually stuck. If yours wobbles it should pop out quite easily.....I say LOL!
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/Atlas%20Grey%2016v%203dr/P1020452.jpg)
Top tip lube up the rubber ring before inserting it goes past the collets by about 3-4mm much easier.
If not pused in properly it will piss fuel or let air in!
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/Atlas%20Grey%2016v%203dr/P1020598.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/Atlas%20Grey%2016v%203dr/P1020597.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/Atlas%20Grey%2016v%203dr/P1020599.jpg)
034 133 557e - top o-ring
035 133 557a - bottom o-ring
Brass threaded insert: 034 133 555A
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sorry to sound thick Jay but what are the brass things and where do they go?
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sorry to sound thick Jay but what are the brass things and where do they go?
They are called Collets you wont need them unless you have damaged them somehow some people change them as over time they wear down and cause air leaks or loose injectors from vibration. I personally dont think you need them just do the rubbers! I stuck them in here as future reference for other people!
Not cheap either for a set. I still have a few I didn't need to use, just incase VAG decide to stop stocking them LOL!
They sit around the manifold holes that your injectors get pushed into!
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ok mate cheers for that, also i'v had slight starting issues when cold nothing serious just taken a few winds but not normal now with winter here its only gonna get worse lol.If air gets in with perished seals would it make much difference? ps got stuck looking at your build thread great work
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Well loads of people sell there 16vers this time of year due to air leaks as you know my build highlighted loads of gaskets that had its time and caused loads of issues I find simple things get me like a simple idle needle screw rubber seal had gone!
I changed out my ISV, WUR, and fifth injector before I realised it was the stupid idle screw. one minute later a new seal and some PTFE tape leak sorted!
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Ok right project for the next warm day new seals,then phone rac as car won't start then auto trader then ask me dad for help?
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test your seals first. with the car running spray wd40 down each injector seal. if the engine note changes its leaking.
to remove injectors use a long flat head screwdriver and place blade under the hex head and prise back while pulling gently on the injector
hard to describe but the screwdriver should be totally vertical, and you prise by pushing the screwdriver against the manifold.
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Just been outside to investigate and managed to pull out all the injectors one by one very easily with very little resistance, so I'm guessing there very worn!!
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yep if you can pull them out with ease they are worn!
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Replaced seals today plus cleaned out the Isv with carb cleaner, then turned the key on a cold engine??? Started much better and ran very smooth very pleased with only about £20 spen and probably an hour of my time. Thanks everyone for the advice.
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id advise getting the co% checked (and reset if necessary) now that the seals that been replaced.
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Who's best to do that?
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Adjusted the co levels useing some advice on another thread, and now idling just under 1000 rpm starts really nice ant the tick over is smooth very pleased.
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good job :) its good when small cheap jobs make such a difference to the running of the car!