GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Rob Zombie on 01 October 2012, 11:59
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Hello All,
I've just replaced my bottom end of my mk2 gti 8v with a mk3 gti bottom end,(this result in the engine being around half an inch taller) after having my motor off the road for a month now - im dying to get it back on.
Got the car running again yesterday and she's running lovely.
Checked the car would shift into ALL gears when the engine was off, however whent he engine is running, it refuses to shift into first, 2nd is a squeeze, and all other gears are okay along with reverse.
I imediately thought it could be due to the engine being slightly taller, however it sh!ts its all gears perfectly when the engine isnt running,
Has anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks in Advance
Robb
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I'd be inclined to suspect a clutch problem. Cant be anything to do with the engine being taller because the gearbox is in the same location.
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Thanks mate - I've also installed new linkage and bushes .
Ill take a look at the clutch tomorrow hopefully - cheers
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It's more likely that with moving all the bits around in the engine bay your linkage needs resetting/adjusting.
Have you got that special tool used to hold the gear stick in place while you adjust the gear linkage in the engine bay? I'd take a look at that side of things before anything else
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i was gonna type what Dennis has just said, you have to align the gear change arrangement back in place, for this you will need this tool
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Gear-Selector-Tool-Golf-GTi-Mk2-Bush-Linkage-Shift-/150573731021?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230ee4cccd
or one just like it for less if you can find one
now you say you replaced the linkage setup, did you replace the orange ball? if you did then you will have taken off the u-clamp between the ball and the engine, usually near the end of the rod, well you need to get back there and loosen that u-clamp, then go into the car and place the tool under the shift boot, you will see where it's supposed to sit when you lift the boot up, leave the tool in place and go tighten up the u-clamp and away you go, all gears should be accessible
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Hello Guys,
Thanks for your thoughts... I've just ordered that tool you linked me so that should be with me before the weekend.
Just out of curiosity, why would it go into gear when the engine isnt running?
Thanks again
Robb
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the clutch isn't needed to shift the gears when the engines off as it's not spinning, if the gears are selected when off then it's just a case of a round peg going in a round hole, if you get me, whereas when the engines running your trying to put it in a square hole
sorry for the daft analogy, best way i can think of explaining lol
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lol sounds like what I try and do on the weekends!!!!
Cheers fella - I'll let you knwo how it goes - fingers corssed this is the problem otherwise out comes the gearbox!
Thanks again
Robb
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You can do it in a few minutes without the tool. Loosen the clamp and move it round a degree. As you can't get 1st or 2nd you need to move the rod anticlockwise inside the clamp, as you look at it from the engine bay. Literally one splines worth will probably do, anymore and you'll lose 5th. You can clean a spline with a scribe or tipex it to guage movement. If it is this that is causing the problem that is..
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the rods i've removed/swapped in the past didn't have splines
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Right lads,
Bit of an update,
The old mans decided to take of the linkage completly and attmept to get firt via the gearbox manually. It still won't go into first.. I imagine this removes the linkage from the problem?
Quite fustrating as the Gearbox and Clutch were working perfectly before we replaced the bottom end
I imagine this si a clutch problem
I'll stick a quick update on tomorrow after its been taken apart ... again :)
Cheers
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easiest way to get the box off with the engine in situ is to drop front cross member bolts on the box side and undo the gearbox mount, driveshafts, take speedo cable out, undo the starter bolts and be aware the engine mount at the front goes through the starter, then all the box bolts and going slowly start to lower the front cross member at that corner and with a bit of wiggling the box should pop off and clear the chassis leg, common sense is also a major factor whilst doing this, make sure all the relevant parts are supported, i do think it's likely to be the wrong clutch though, check the clutch on the splines of the box shaft for fit
just a quick thought, is your clutch cable manual adjust or self adjust, if self adjust did you refit it the correct way as these can cause issues with gears if not done right, the correct fitting is using the white plastic loop thing on the cable
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Cheers Fella,
Yeah I've done the gearbox before - had to change my gearbox a month back (it was running perfectly) then my bottom end decided to go :angry:
It's cable manual adjust - a family member fitted the the egine for me so the gearbox and clutch will come out tomorrow - hopefully something has be re-amssembled incorrectly and the clutch hasn't gone..
Like i sid before replacing the botteom end - both the clutch and gearbox were runnign sweet - so figners crossed I have some good news tomorrow!
Cheers
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if it's the same clutch as what you were running before with the same box then it's can't be a clutch FIT issue, i'm wondering if the release bearing is goosed, that's easier than taking the box off if you wanna check that first?
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heres a guide for the release bearing
http://brokevw.com/TO.html
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interesting - i didnt think of that! ill take a look at that first tomorrow
Thanks for yuor ideas mate - your'e a star!
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no worries pal, been in these kinda situations before, always helped me when i was new to the issues so i'm just trying to spread the knowledge lol
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She's sorted,
Took the gearbox and clutch out yesterday, and the friction plate wasn't in the best state - bought a new clutch and refitted yesterday - working like a dream
Miggs - cheers fella!
Robb
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anytime bud, glad it's sorted :wink: