GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Koose on 25 September 2012, 15:25
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Hi all ,
My gti 16 has another odd issue. , the tacho or rev meter , once the car is warm , needle starts going heywire at the same time but not in synch the car starts coughing n spluttering and it makes driving a pretty hair raising experience. I'm thinking coil or possibly crank sensor. Being a noob to these , what controls piston position crank or cam sensor and where ate they ? All help massively thankful for as its my daily drive and barely got me to work.
Yours sincerely
Mark
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A faulty crank sensor/wiring can cause that. The sensor is bolted into the block with a 5mm allen key bolt and the wiring runs round the back of the oil filter. I supported the engine and removed the bracket for the front engine mount to make my life easier.
Would get the car scanned for faults before replacing it though :smiley:
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Thanks man, would it deffo not be faulty coil, im getting her scanned tomoz. Just removed dizzy cap, rotor arm is proper proper fubard.
Silly question but hoiw do you remove it, my old car it was just an 8mm hex bolt. I cant see whats holding this on.
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Rotor arm is probably glued on you will have to attack it with a hacksaw and break it up to remove it
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Hey guys
Didnt have time to get the car scanned and the garage was shut on my way home from work on saturay. Shes back to spluttering and the tach going heywire, oddly if i drive it like a granny itll be ok for the 30odd mile journey to work but if i take it through the rev range itll play up after say 7+ miles.
Are there any common issues that can cause this?
Mark
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Did you replace either the crank sensor or the coil pack?
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http://www.talktomycar.co.uk/products/codereaders/mj002.htm
Buy one of these,check vac hoses and obvious connections, U281 delivered Tuesday, scan car, replace what it shows up, no faults or continues after replacing bits start looking at coil and relays.
Still persists start looking at fuelling (previously checked hoses...)
Dont own a Mk3 without owning a code reader, and a large tub of underseal :grin:
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Hey Leon,
Not yet i didnt want to spend any money until i knew whether or not there was a fault code. Ive serviced it as i would have anyway, but i struggled to keep up with the missus as she overtook a tractor in her Aygo so theres definately something wrong (aside from the coughing, misfiring and dying on me!).
Thanks alot guys. Ill have a look at purchasing that other reader, its bloody annoying when you cant get a day off to sort out your transport needs!
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Just got oily. Removed the crank sensor, the shielding has come off a span of say 6" and the wires *+(all 3) have bare wires exposed. The actual sensor end has also snapped off in the plastic housing exposing yet more bare wires. I dont know if its f**ked but im replacing it anyway. Cant be good having it like that.
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You are right, you do need a crank sensor as the bare wires touching on the block or on each other will cause problems just like you described. Fingers crossed, it seems like you found the problem :)
Go for the Siemens VDO make if you can from somewhere like EuroCarParts or GSF. The cheaper aftermarket random ones can cause problems later on in its life or when they get hot so choose a branded one if money allows.
I remember I bought mine from Euros and it was a VDO one. I get trade discount but forum discount on here is good...
Look up the sensor and type in " Test31 " on the Euros site
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Youre a star!! Only thing thats worrying me is if i get her running and legal, my 200sx fund that was for my sx, will undoubtedly go solely on the dub.
Initially, some coilovers, full bushes, brakes and linesm decent pads.
Then a turbo or ideally supercharger conversion with a forged bottom end.
And (now dreaming) - A synchro setup as found on the supercharged ABF golf Limited 70 that were 218hp with awd grip.