GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: rfn_hodgson on 22 September 2012, 00:47
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hey guys im having abit of a drama trying to figure this out, oki so basically im boosting fine then 15-20 miles down the road im feeling say not even a quarter of the boost im used to so i pull over and turn off the engine, then start back up again and its fine again and last for a while, now i have noticed when im giving it some welly its oki but then, when im just driving normally and i want to give it some welly again the problem seems to come back.
ive had it remapped (stage 1) could this be the drama?
ive checked all silicone pipes are tight on (fine)
oil is ok
coolant level ok
and the turbo ive had some one look at and he said its fine, infact in really good nick
oh and its been happening for a good 3 weeks now, but now its getting more intermittent
any advive would be greatly appreciated cheers lads
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you're hitting limp mode. You need to scan the car for fault codes and go from there
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cheers buddy, what is this limp mode and how do i solve ??
i cant get to a scanner unless someone in northern ireland is on here :) ??
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will it harm anything if i keep driving it??
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If a car hits Limp mode it does this to prevent damage... so to keep using might cause damage but im no expert. you would drive it I suppose but drive it really careful e.g change gear at 2k and DONT boost.?
again im no expert.
If you cannot get anyone to scan for you i know VW will do it for about £72ish pound but they will only scan it and tell you what the code mean but they will not tell you what is causing the error code.
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Broken divertor valve? If the seals gone then at full psi it would leak boost.
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thats what i dont understand though... if i turn off the engine and back on again its fine :undecided:
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Idealy you need to get it scanned, and see what code you get.
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sorry to jack this thread, but i've installed a newsouth PSI boost gauge and when the engine is running it sits at about 9-10HG and when i put the foot to the floor, it shoots up to about 10-15PSI and will then sit just under 10PSI when hard cruising (80MPH or over), is this normal? should i be worried about anything with this, i know the needle drops slowly from max 15PSI to about 12-14PSI in the space of 5 seconds when my foot is flat when in 2nd gear for example and revs at about 5k rpm. it pulls like a
B!4tch since ive had all the pipes chaged and can put in :evil:
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Broken divertor valve? If the seals gone then at full psi it would leak boost.
well ive checked the forge 007p and its fine, its got the yellow spring in it, once again taken for another test drive and when i keep hammering it it does not go into limp mode but as soon as i give it a break for a few mins its back in limp mode so i turn off the back on again and its fine again.
trying to find someone now who has a code reader hopefully its nothing to costly
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turning the engine off and starting it again resets the limp mode
As you have an AUQ check the pipe down the back of the engine to comes from the turbo to the pancake pipe. The join on yours is held on with with clips and fail for fun. If you find you need an AGU version (which is a jubilee and much better for sealing) Chris has one for sale in the classifieds
sorry to jack this thread, but i've installed a newsouth PSI boost gauge and when the engine is running it sits at about 9-10HG
That's a bit low mate, should be about -20in hg
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sounds like it could be a faulty map sensor (unless your running an agu the it doesnt even have a map sensor) have you got any friends with a 1.8t? you could try there map sensor to diagnose
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turning the engine off and starting it again resets the limp mode
As you have an AUQ check the pipe down the back of the engine to comes from the turbo to the pancake pipe. The join on yours is held on with with clips and fail for fun. If you find you need an AGU version (which is a jubilee and much better for sealing) Chris has one for sale in the classifieds
sorry to jack this thread, but i've installed a newsouth PSI boost gauge and when the engine is running it sits at about 9-10HG
That's a bit low mate, should be about -20in hg
yeh just checked it and it sits at -20in HG
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ok so a bit of an up date..... when i plug it in.... no fault codes. so we took it for a good test drive and it went into limp mode and still no codes popped up.
really confused right now :(
any ideas ?
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what reader were you using?
if you try the basics, unplug MAF and see if its better.
check for oil from/on pipes (indicating a boost leak)
is it when it gets warm? or all the time?
etc
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it can happen sometimes form start up and some times 30mins down the road and as i found out driving up to scotland 3hours up the road?, it happens irregulary. i was looking at the pipes yesturday and i noticed the pipe going from the turbo to the pancake pipe has got a fair amount of dirty old oil around near the joint, must be a boost leak from there then.
wazzer has advised me to get the charge pipe from an AGU so im just wanting on that now.
just out of interest how hard/ much of a b*&%h is it to change the charge pipe??
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Really easy mate, if you never done it before its a 30min job if that.
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It is easy provided you have the right tools, the hardest part for me was getting the support bracket main bolt out because I couldnt see a damn thing and had to feel with my hands lol
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cheers fellas
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turning the engine off and starting it again resets the limp mode
As you have an AUQ check the pipe down the back of the engine to comes from the turbo to the pancake pipe. The join on yours is held on with with clips and fail for fun. If you find you need an AGU version (which is a jubilee and much better for sealing) Chris has one for sale in the classifieds
well ive changed the charge pipe to the AGU one and i do notice it holds the boost longer. but im still going into limp mode and chriss plugged it into his vag com and no codes.....
any other ideas??
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??
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you tried all the breather pipes mate? Who mapped it?
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breather pipes?- to do with the oil catch can ?? a tuning complex near me called top gear performance, i only went there because my mate has had his done there and no problems, the map it self wasn't a custom one as such it was like a bulk map if you know what i mean.
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yeah those pies, just to see if they are all ok etc.
It might be worth asking them if they could have a look. Just tell them it's happened since the remap
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There's your problem dude get a proper map.. Who was it? Danny who mapped it? Mine has one of there maps and I can't wait to get it done somewhere else. But if that's not the issue try changing n75 valve that went on mine,
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I'm sure there is a problem with certain AUQ ECUs that needs sorting when you map them, Topher will probably know more
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Boom, from R-Techs website
We have been updated with many emails from 1.8T 20v owners which have Golf, Seat & Skoda VRS with the AUM and AUQ engine codes. They have reported issues of there remaps from other tuners causing boost surge and 17705 limp mode / fault codes.
The fault IS based in the OEM mapping and once remapped the fault is highlighted and becomes a really anoying issues when trying to drive the car in a smooth linear style.
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he wants to take it somwhere proper for mapping i live local to the place he took it they do custom exhuasts and now theyve started doing remaping.....
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Ok guys so I've had It hooked up to a propper diagnostic machine and the codes are
P1297 and p1560
Once again cheers for the help :)
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17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Power Loss
Possible Causes
Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty
Diverter Valve faulty
Throttle Body dirty
Vacuum leak
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses and Pipes between Components
Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
Check / Replace Diverter Valve
Check / Clean Throttle Body
Perform Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
Check for Vacuum leak(s) including PCV system
Special Notes
Did anyone install an extra (wrong) dump valve? When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather ValveIf the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.
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17968/P1560/005472 - 17968 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded (Engine Warranty VOID! ☺ )
Possible Symptoms
Abnormal Engine Noises
Possible Causes
Rev Limiter Removed, check to see if ECM has been 'Tuned'.
Engine Speed too fast due to a mis-shift or the "Money-Shift".
Stuck throttle.
Possible Solutions
Clear Fault Codes
Remove Lead from Foot :laugh:
Special Notes
This DTC indicates that the Engine Speed has passed the recommended safe RPM limit, which may potentially cause severe engine damage.
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17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Power Loss
Possible Causes
Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty
Diverter Valve faulty
Throttle Body dirty
Vacuum leak
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses and Pipes between Components
Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
Check / Replace Diverter Valve
Check / Clean Throttle Body
Perform Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
Check for Vacuum leak(s) including PCV system
Special Notes
Did anyone install an extra (wrong) dump valve? When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather ValveIf the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.
Possible Causes
Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components - changed charge pipe to agu one, and ive got silicone pipes all round
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty- where is this in the engine bay ??
Diverter Valve faulty- ive got a forge 007p and its working fine
Throttle Body dirty- cleaned about 2 months ago ish
Vacuum leak
Possible Solutions
Check Hoses and Pipes between Components- check
Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)-?
Check / Replace Diverter Valve- check
Check / Clean Throttle Body- check
Perform Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)- check
Check for Vacuum leak(s) including PCV system- ive got oil catch can would that cause issues??
once again cheers in advance much appreciated
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shouldn't do if all the hoses are air tight. Check every hose from the turbo to the throttle housing for splits etc, then move on to the N249 and DV hoses. It really could be anything
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... Remove Lead from Foot :laugh: ...
:lipsrsealed: :whistle: