GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: ChrisJones on 15 September 2012, 20:38
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Hi all, I have spent some time putting new discs and pads all round on the car this week, along with oil, filter and fuel filter change.
I have not yet bought any spark plugs for the motor but does anyone have any reccomendations on the best ones to buy?
Can some plugs give better performance than others?
Any help and links would be great
Its for a mk3 gti 16v 1997
Cheers peeps.
:smiley:
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Lots of people on here seem to like NGK Iridium plugs. :afro:
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ive used ngk and bosch platinum before, both good plugs
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Ngk or bosch
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NGK BUR6ET are the correct ones for your GTI.
Replace every 30-40k and all is well. Platinum or Iridium aren't any better plus the BUR6ET have exactly the correct properties in terms of heat rating and so on...
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It's all about the gap :wink:
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These bad boys do the job then lads??
Cheers
http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.0_1998/p/car-parts/car-service-parts/regular-service/spark-plugs/?408440060&1&d0503f3e877e591a971345bd986949821095c7c8&000301
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They look like correct ones, just google that part number and see if they are BUR6ET. Then they are correct.
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what's wrong with Beru??
ecp sell them cheaper than ngk but they are an o.e vw supplier
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NGK for me. Every 10k they get replaced, about £11 for a set of 4 off ebay.
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are these also the right plugs for the AAM engine 1,8?
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Plugs compatible for AAM are:
Bosch W8 LTCR with gap set to 0.9-1.1mm
Beru 14GH-8 DTUR with 0.7-0.9mm gap
NGK BUR5ET with 0.7-0.9mm gap
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I also use NGK, the ones I ordered have three prongs on the top, car seems to be alot more responsive mainly done to the fact I gave it a full service but I'd still say there good plugs :)
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NGK BUR6ET are the correct ones for your GTI.
Replace every 30-40k and all is well. Platinum or Iridium aren't any better plus the BUR6ET have exactly the correct properties in terms of heat rating and so on...
Are they correctly gapped out of the box or do they need adjusting ?
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NGK BUR6ET are the correct ones for your GTI.
Replace every 30-40k and all is well. Platinum or Iridium aren't any better plus the BUR6ET have exactly the correct properties in terms of heat rating and so on...
Are they correctly gapped out of the box or do they need adjusting ?
Always check gap when fitting plugs. Too large and you can get misfires and overload the crappy mk3 coil.
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As far as I remember BUR6ET are pre-set to 0.8mm - GTI engines (2E, ADY, AGG) call for 0.7 to 0.9 so should be OK. But it's always worth checking... feeler gauges are very cheap nowadays....
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Is it the same gap for ABF engines?
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as far as i know (i asked a few mechanics & retailers) they do come pre-set & 0.7mm or 0.8mm are bang on!!
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ABF should be between 0.6 and 0.9 depending on plugs.
bosch f5 dpo r 0.6-0.7mm
champion c6 vpyc 0.8-0.9mm
ngk bk7eku 0.8mm max or pgr6q 0.7-0.8mm
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just wondering why the beru plugs are so much cheaper. i plan to buy from eurocarparts.
or is it worth spending the extra cash on the ngk plugs....as they will save by giving better mgp?
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Beru are good as well. Which ones were you gonna get from eurocarparts?
Beru make quite a few spark plugs, so there is a range of suitable ones for the AAM.
NGK BUR5ET are pretty good plugs, so would assume they are more expensive than bottom range Beru.
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I allways go for bosch ,ngk or beru .in that order
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I use ngk b9egv for the kart engine and they are the bollox.
NGK all the way
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So will 101-000-036AA NGK BUR6ET fit my 97 mk3 2.0 8v?
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So will 101-000-036AA NGK BUR6ET fit my 97 mk3 2.0 8v?
Same plug as I use :wink:
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So is that a yes? The ebay seller says its not suitable?
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97 GTI means you got a AGG or AKR engine..... for both BUR6ET are correct according to Haynes.
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Its an AGG
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So is that a yes? The ebay seller says its not suitable?
No I bought the wrong ones for my car then put them in anyway :rolleyes:
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BUR6ET are a match for AGG :)
Even www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk confirms - specifically lists AGG (and all other Euro-Mk3 2.0 8V engines).
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Beru are good as well. Which ones were you gonna get from eurocarparts?
Beru make quite a few spark plugs, so there is a range of suitable ones for the AAM.
NGK BUR5ET are pretty good plugs, so would assume they are more expensive than bottom range Beru.
i am not sure as i can't tell what type they are the three around 4 pounds of the three brands metioned. the ngk is out of stock so it is between the bosch for 3.59 or 3.96 or the beru for 4.44. the cheaper plugs like one of the three pronged beru for 2.32 are out of stock as well . those are the candidates.dont know if tose ngk are the bur5et or not.
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They're out of stock for a good reason :wink:
I get mine from eBay.
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:)
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Ok so ive got NGK BUR6ET sparks coming in the post. What will i need to fit these and remove the old ones? mm sizes please, ive never done this before so reply like im an 8yr old retarded boy :laugh:
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got NGK BKR7E in mine (audi s3 engine for those who dont know) colder plug due to bigger power of the larger turbo
copper are best just dont last as long, does not matter to me tho as ill just change every 5k miles, they cost a couple quid each
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finally ordered some. hope it will solve my rough idle and emissions problem!cant wait till wednesday!
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Replaced mine yesterday for the first time. Put in NGK BUR6ET plugs in like 2 minutes. Lovely job. Only problem now is ive had the vw for just over a month and i think ive caught the bug now. I keep going from part to part wanting to replace everything :smiley: ht leads next me thinks.
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Ok will change plugs today. Haynes says to just remove leads by hand and other sources say you have to be super careful and use needle nose pliers.
A daunting task for me. I want to keep using the leads and havent got replacements yet
.any advice? I apologise if this is hijacking but thought it is quite relevant. :)
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Grap the lead at the base on spark plug and pull.
Man up lol and you don't need to tighten the new plugs up tight. Tight yes, but not super tight.
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Grap the lead at the base on spark plug and pull.
Man up lol and you don't need to tighten the new plugs up tight. Tight yes, but not super tight.
+1
Nothing worse than getting a broken off or rounded plug out :whistle:
At least on an 8v you stand a chance :grin:
I'm running a set from my dads old Audi 1.8t, not the right plug but he has boxes of new ones that dont fit his new soot chucker how pikey is that :grin:
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allways use NGK here. the std jobbies are cheep and long lived and never had a problem with them they also take to modifyed engines well.
the better plugs in there range are defantly a lot better than others on the market ive tryed the iridium and raceing compotion plugs are bloody good. put a set of iridiums in a mates rally car and you can actualy drive it about round town without it fouling them and quite often on verry modifyed engines running methanol can usally coax a cold start out of them with it running plugs in, that saves a lot of ballache swaping plugs just to get the motors warmed up
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old plugs were bosch super. now i have ngk. ill see if there is a difference!
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Ive had a full cambelt kit n tensioner done, an oil and filter change, air filter changed, cleared service codes and new NGK BUR6ET put in and havent noticed the slightest difference in the way my car drives? still rattles when i accelerate hard too :sad:
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maybe timing is off???my friend said even if the distributor cap is off by a bit the car can run rough...
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Your mate is wrong :grin:
Cap is fixed and can only go on in one position.
If timing is off it will hit 5000rpm limit and also will idle fine, only sh!t when trying to drive it.
This is from my own experience :smiley:
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Rattle or Miss fire?
Engine mounts?
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Ive had a full cambelt kit n tensioner done, an oil and filter change, air filter changed, cleared service codes and new NGK BUR6ET put in and havent noticed the slightest difference in the way my car drives? still rattles when i accelerate hard too :sad:
probaly a knackerd knock sensor
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Ive had a full cambelt kit n tensioner done, an oil and filter change, air filter changed, cleared service codes and new NGK BUR6ET put in and havent noticed the slightest difference in the way my car drives? still rattles when i accelerate hard too :sad:
had similar work done and still had rattles when accelerating - turned out to be the rear bushes, got them sorted and a full wheel allignment again and have no probs since....well think i need aligning again as she is pulling left after having to bounce up a curb at some speed to avoid the fire engine blue lighting it towards me on my side of the road!! :laugh:
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Great so theres like 5 diferent things it could be? Great :sad:
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Great so theres like 5 diferent things it could be? Great :sad:
Its when it stops knocking you have a problem
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I dont know the difference between a rattle and a misfire?