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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: devilscaff on 02 September 2012, 10:02

Title: hot engine
Post by: devilscaff on 02 September 2012, 10:02
My 16v temperature gauge always reads 3/4 the way across, not a problem but on most journeys the temp light will start flashing then the fans kicks in.Theres plenty of water and coolent in the car,or is this normal on a22yr old car
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: VW BUSH on 02 September 2012, 18:29
Should sit on halfway once up to temp and not move.
The temp gauges can be a bit temperamental (seriously) and read a bit out , does it stay rigid in position or go up and down?
Worth checking both fan speeds are working, also the quality of the pump.
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: devilscaff on 02 September 2012, 19:06
I'v changed the water pump for a good condition oem one, and also the needle stays at the 3/4 mark once warmed up
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: bodga on 02 September 2012, 20:37
There are 3 temp senders on the R/H side of the head just infront of the dizzy, they are all the same, one is for your temp gauge and the other 2 go to the idle controller thingy screwed to the back of your centre console. Swap the wires around, one sensor might be a bit out so giving you a false reading. Give them a good clean too.

Although when  I took mine to the MOT station this weekend i was sat in a lot of traffic, mine too crept up to 3/4, i checked the oil temp and it showed 110 deg. fan was cutting in and out though.
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: raferackstraw on 04 September 2012, 19:48
the best way ive found to keep temps below 100 is to fit a mocal oil cooler kit, this has stopped mine rising sbove 100 even on the hottest days when sat in traffic, also get yourself a pacet fan kit and replace the oem one. it may also be wise to change the radiator fan sensor as this maybe on its way out
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: Gambit on 04 September 2012, 21:50
100 - 110 is not a prob, infact anything up to 120 is grand if using good quality oil

reasons for running very warm is generally in need of service and a good setup.

As for dash temp, as said swap them around. If you have spade connectors they are generally original senders, button type are more likely non genuine and some give false readings due to their resistance levels

 red yellow wire is dash gauge
green red is isv
Blue white is ecu advance
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: devilscaff on 05 September 2012, 14:42
Thanks for some good advice, just need some time to have a look.(kids starting new school, work, sons football, grass to cut garage to clear out and a wife!!!!)
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: jack.pe on 05 September 2012, 16:15
My 16v temperature gauge always reads 3/4 the way across, not a problem but on most journeys the temp light will start flashing then the fans kicks in.Theres plenty of water and coolent in the car,or is this normal on a22yr old car

In traffic the fan should kick in before the temp light starts flashing. If the temp light comes on before this it is likely one of the sensors needs changing. This sorted it on my car.
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: richie2480 on 09 September 2012, 09:27
There are 3 temp senders on the R/H side of the head just infront of the dizzy, they are all the same, one is for your temp gauge and the other 2 go to the idle controller thingy screwed to the back of your centre console. Swap the wires around, one sensor might be a bit out so giving you a false reading. Give them a good clean too.

Although when  I took mine to the MOT station this weekend i was sat in a lot of traffic, mine too crept up to 3/4, i checked the oil temp and it showed 110 deg. fan was cutting in and out though.

I had the same problem with my golf, temp guage reading max and light flashing. Collent level was fine and fan was working. I checked the 3 temp sensors and one had come loose. re-fitted it and all was fine. The connectors are pretty crap though so I would check their condition.
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: vii-cks on 12 September 2012, 13:57
I've got a manual fan override switch on my mk2 so you can switch on the fans when you think is appropriate because apparently issues with mk2 engines baking from heat is not good :(. Usually switches and connections are poor but is a 20 odd yr old motor.
Title: Re: hot engine
Post by: devilscaff on 12 September 2012, 19:30
I got around to having  a play today,and replaced the sender to an original spade connector and the reading now doesnt go above a quarter. Think i'll leave it at that as the light know longer comes on,thanks for the tips.