GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Gash on 30 August 2012, 13:47
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Right after a bit of help from you guys.
As you know doing an agu conversion into my car, now everything is plumbed in and ready to go except on big issue... its not sparking.
theres fuel coming through the injectors
the ignition amp is working fine
theres power going to the coilpacks and its earthing fine
theres just no signal being sent to the coilpacks to fire.
pulled one out and attached a spark plug to it then put it against the rocket cover and nothing.
my mate who is fitting it all has checked all the feeds and the wiring and all good so we putting it to the ecu.
we bought the ecu off ebay from a company (from the same one people with abfs are getting their chips from) agu ecu but with a chip (main reason we bought it because was cheaper than getting the one from the engine unlocked)
ecu is unlocked etc as the ad says, but cant figure it out why isnt starting.
dont know if it has anything to do with because im running s3 clocks, with a mk3 key (which worked previously) and now a mk4 ecu. the clocks still come on and show data so definatly power going to them.
just completely lost and what was suppose to be a 3 week job is going into its 7th week!
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Read something similar somewhere, needed to get the immob defeated properly again. Get another ECU (from a scrappy or car being broken) and get it immob defeated, should hopefully solve your issue.
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Or jst buy golf with it already done :grin:
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Or jst buy golf with it already done :grin:
^^
This,
Oh and whilst your being a boring sod you can put your standard long beaches on, stop smoothing your bumpers and buy one already smoothed....
No im joking, taunton your just a c0ck
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^^^ lol great help :P
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^^^ lol great help :P
Im just as much of a c0ck as he is what can i say :grin: just the better variety.
I could of said its more than likey the ecu immob but why echo whats been said :smiley:
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:grin:
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If its the imob should still fire and run for 2-3 secs. Just got mine going last week and had this issue. Still started but died and pulled up a fault code. Check my build thread for the codes, have a pic up on it with the immob code.
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you getting power to injectors ? ?
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Yeah says hes checked for power to coilpacks i think in his OP
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getting power to the coilpacks and they are earthing.
getting power to the injectors as have pulled out the spark plugs and you can smell the petrol
plugged in a vag.com and only fault thats coming up is to do with throttle body position sensor.
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Take it all the wiring etc is all good and done properly?
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indeed, i trust my mates wiring since hes done a conversion before.
checked all the feeds and the earths and all fine.
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You wll get fuel to the cylinders even if the injectors aren't working, Brad and I had this problem with the Caddy we did, turned out there was a broken wire in the loom so the injectors weren't getting any power. Bit of re-wiring later and hey presto, it fired up :cool:
Failing this, it could be the injection Amplify unit, although these tend to just shut down a coil pack or 2 so unlikely.
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aye run a direct feed to injectors and try that
ours was passing fuel but at a tiny rate... needs to be a certain amount to get the car started
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ok will give that a try. im getting a strong smell of fuel though so i could assume a fair amount is getting through, and i know i had over a quarter of a tank in there before we started the conversion
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ok will give that a try. im getting a strong smell of fuel though so i could assume a fair amount is getting through, and i know i had over a quarter of a tank in there before we started the conversion
we got a strong smell also which almost made us over look this too
a tiny bit of fuel make a big smell..
not saying yours is deffo this issue but well worthy of a test, give it a direct feed to your batter, put a inline fuse in their to be safe too pal (cant remember what colour wire it was in the loom you need to tap into sorry)
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ok thanks, if they arent passing enough fuel through would this cause the coil not to fire at all then?
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ok thanks, if they arent passing enough fuel through would this cause the coil not to fire at all then?
you should still get a spark if you touch it to rocker cover as you crank
are you sure your earths are all very clean and have you checked all fuses
do you now how to use a volt meter, have you checked all wiring for continuity ??
i think you have a wiring issue personally
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already done that yea. took the coil out, put a sparkplug in there and put it against the rocket cover, cranked over and was no spark.
used a multimeter against the coil, showed power going to them, and earthing, i havent been there when he has tested the wiring but hes assuring me that its all good and grounded fine.
hense why hes thinking its the ecu, but my thinking was if it was the ecu it wouldnt be sending fault codes through to the diagnostics port would it?
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Have you had it hooked up to Vag Com ?? is so what is it saying ?
if it was a immobiliser issue, the car would run for 1 second then shut down so its not that
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yep plugged vagcom into it and only thing showing is throttle position sensor.
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Mate get on edition and check out that vento splitt thread.....the being delivered this week and the is some extras in the I think......nothing to do with your engine sorry!
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yep plugged vagcom into it and only thing showing is throttle position sensor.
have you tried to align the TB via Vag com ?
mine does this automatic once if the battery has been disconected but im not sure on the non S3 engines.. their is a function on vag com to do it
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yep plugged vagcom into it and only thing showing is throttle position sensor.
have you tried to align the TB via Vag com ?
mine does this automatic once if the battery has been disconected but im not sure on the non S3 engines.. their is a function on vag com to do it
My AGU does it automaticly also.
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if you dont do it on vagcom they all do over time apparently, the ecu kinda adjusts itself so the more you drive it the better it gets till its running properly
thats what I read anyway it may well be a load of bollocks :laugh:
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I thought the throttle body had to be calibrated on all 1.8T engines if replaced?
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how can the throttle body be calibrated if its wired? still no luck my mate thinks iv got a bad chip, but spoke to the company that sent the ecu and they said it was tested fine before being sent out
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Correction, i think only fly by wire engines need throttle body calibration.
Can anyone confirm?
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Correction, i think only fly by wire engines need throttle body calibration.
Can anyone confirm?
just need aligning mate.. vag com or automatically does it via the ECU
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Put an R32 engine in like mine!!
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Put an R32 engine in like mine!!
too heavy.. too slow for all the effort, needs a turbo
Also too much weight too far forward
just my opinion
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I know I could do it myself but I would not have a clue. How much would I be looking at getting a 1.8t conversion say with TSR???
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Correction, i think only fly by wire engines need throttle body calibration.
Can anyone confirm?
Only DBW TB's need to be calibrated by VAG COM after removal etc
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Correction, i think only fly by wire engines need throttle body calibration.
Can anyone confirm?
Only DBW TB's need to be calibrated by VAG COM after removal etc
no they don't, it does it automatic mate
got audi S3 engine in my MK3 thsat has DBW and the TB has been off a fair few times now :nerd:
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How much will 1.8t conversion cost??
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17 sheckles and an ounce of belly button fluff.
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Have you checked your getting a pulse from the crank position sensor?
Also if you have tried to fire the engine up and you misplaced the earth on the rocker cover from the coilpack loom that backfeeds and spikes the ecu.
Worth checking out.I cant see it being a fuel problem at all.
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Have you checked your getting a pulse from the crank position sensor?
old onws like to fail, just looking at them funny can be enough
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il have a look into that misplaced earth thing.
my mates having words with the place that sold us the ecu, but really i cant see it being that as if it was i wouldnt get the fault codes through surely?
crank position sensor seems to be working. no fault codes when plugged in, take it off and get a fault code.
and as for the price of a conversion do it yourself probably cost you around £1500-2k if you do things on the cheap.
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Doing things on the cheap usually leads to problems
Still think the issue here is a wiring problem, be it a earth or whatever
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After reading thread after thread of people having problems with their conversions it makes me feel much better about the price I paid while doing mine. No problems were had other than my own stupid mistakes and when wired up started first time :cool: I know this is no help to anyone I'm just making myself feel better about having no money left :grin:
As Brad says doing things cheaply will lead to problems you want to get your parts from trusted sellers and work done by people who have a reputation for knowing what they are doing
a £2000 conversion imo will be shoddy at best
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i think i only managed to do it slightly cheaper because was my mate doing it and supplying the engine. plus managed to pick up a k03s for £100 with only 50k on it too so was happy with that!
hes contacting the person i bought the ecu off now and hes adament that its the ecu not his wiring, and is saying get the ecu i had with the engine deimmobilised. so no car for even longer now! be two months soon!!
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still nothing back! getting absolutly ridiculous now!
says none of the solutions youve mentioned worked.
going to try sending the original ecu off to get the immobiliser unlocked from it.
anybody know any places that will do it?
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Has he fitted a new crack position sensor?
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Had my AGU ECU de-immob'ed from R-Tech for £100 with return delivery.
This was the original one that came on the car.
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cheers man il get on the phone to them tomorrow!