GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Khare on 29 August 2012, 11:32
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I've got no ABS in my car, hate the thing so I disabled it. However my rears lock up far before the fronts, causing the rear to step out under heavy braking. As the Mk3's haven't got a brake compensator valve, how can I turn the bias towards the front? Is there any way?
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I'm sure I've read that the bias valve is part of the ABS system hence why you've now this issue. I'm guessing an inline manually adjusted bias valve would resolve it though.
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IIRC lower spec and early GTIs had rear brake compensators.
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IIRC lower spec and early GTIs had rear brake compensators.
They did. Mine is 1995 though. No valve. I know a manual bias valve would sort it, but don't they require the brake lines to run through the cabin so you can have the valve at hand?
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Just a thought but I assume you have checked sticky calipers etc.
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IIRC lower spec and early GTIs had rear brake compensators.
They did. Mine is 1995 though. No valve. I know a manual bias valve would sort it, but don't they require the brake lines to run through the cabin so you can have the valve at hand?
No need to run it through the car, just set it up right... Would probably be easier to get an early spec compensator fitted and set that up correctly. Or just put your ABS back on.
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Think one side is sticking a tad at the rear. From what I've been reading though the rear will always lock up first as the system is designed to work with ABS. Sucks.
IIRC lower spec and early GTIs had rear brake compensators.
They did. Mine is 1995 though. No valve. I know a manual bias valve would sort it, but don't they require the brake lines to run through the cabin so you can have the valve at hand?
No need to run it through the car, just set it up right... Would probably be easier to get an early spec compensator fitted and set that up correctly. Or just put your ABS back on.
Rather get a valve and adjust it to my liking. Think it's something I'm going to just stick with really, can't be chucking more money at the car!
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well id be carefull. as it happened to me driving my mates 16v with the abs not working and on a straight i had to break heavily and the car stepped out but luckily i caught it back and avoided a c*nt who pulled infront of me. (was scary)
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well id be carefull. as it happened to me driving my mates 16v with the abs not working and on a straight i had to break heavily and the car stepped out but luckily i caught it back and avoided a c*nt who pulled infront of me. (was scary)
Don't worry, I'm used to rear braking only :wink:
Different on a track mind you.
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Switching off your ABS has caused the biasing to be disabled. Very dangerous.
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Switching off your ABS has caused the biasing to be disabled. Very dangerous.
Correct!
Why not just run with ABS?
Why anyone thinks they can brake better without it amazes me.
Isn't it an MOT fail now too?
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Switching off your ABS has caused the biasing to be disabled. Very dangerous.
Correct!
Why not just run with ABS?
Why anyone thinks they can brake better without it amazes me.
Isn't it an MOT fail now too?
I just think ABS kicks in too early. I don't like it at all.
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Mght be a stupid question but have you just disconnected the abs sensors to disable the abs?
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Well...No, the ABS stopped functioning (broken plug).
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I had this problem in my 16v
What I did to over come this was get sh!t standardish pads on the rear that work from cold but fade when hot and the opposite on the front pads.
I just took it easy on the brakes untill I warmed them up and then once hot the fronts would lock first :wink:
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I've got 288 discs and mintex 1144 pads at front and standard discs and oem spec mintex pads at the rear, so it's more or less that. Would like a bias valve.....Been looking at them on ebay and they're reasonably priced. Only problem is where to fit it and making the joints. I don't have any brake pipe flaring kits or experience either.
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Switching off your ABS has caused the biasing to be disabled. Very dangerous.
Correct!
Why not just run with ABS?
Why anyone thinks they can brake better without it amazes me.
Isn't it an MOT fail now too?
I just think ABS kicks in too early. I don't like it at all.
Maybe you need better tyres or suspension with more travel. Never had a problem with abs coming in too early.
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Use T1R on the front and rainsport 2's on the back, although will get more T1R's when the rainsport's wear.
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Better to fix / switch the ABS back on tbh.
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I must admit the ABS on my 16v has always been overly sensitive, especially when the brakes are still cold although the rear has never locked up. I just assumed (and hoped) it was down to crappy pads.
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I must admit the ABS on my 16v has always been overly sensitive, especially when the brakes are still cold although the rear has never locked up. I just assumed (and hoped) it was down to crappy pads.
I run 312mm fronts on Mintex Competition F4R WRC spec Tarmac Rally pads/Mintex M1155s and M1144s on the back...and I can jump on the brakes with 18+ stone behind in until my eyes hurt - it's like throwing a VR6 out to stop you - and not trigger the ABS.
Also on Toyo T1Rs.
I have never had my ABS kick in early...it just works.
There should be no reason to disconnect it it the tyres are good and the system works.
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Just to clear it up, the car brakes hard. Not as hard as yours Glen (much bigger discs) but hard enough to cause pain to the body.
The problem is when really stepping on the brake the rear will lock before the front, when I feel the front has more stopping grip still available. I just wish the bias was 10% more towards the front.
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The ABS will stop the back locking...I can get mine to twitch and squirm at the front...but the back doesn't let go, ever.
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yeah - put the ABS back on. It only kicks in when the wheels start to lock, so whats the issue? After all this is the public roads, and not a track, so why would you be braking that hard anyway?
And yes as far as I know the ABS replaces the load valve for the rear wheels. FYI my 1.8 GL had one and it was fitted just forward of the rear beam and from memory linked to it to adjust to the weight in the rear - i.e. light rear weight and light break effort, heavy weight and heavy effort.
>it's like throwing a VR6 out to stop you
lol.
James
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The problem is when really stepping on the brake the rear will lock before the front, when I feel the front has more stopping grip still available. I just wish the bias was 10% more towards the front.
As mentioned. You have the ABS disconnected and you have no bias. If you keep it like that for much longer, you may even find the back end overtaking the front, slamming you side on into a park car.
It nearly happened to me. So i fixed my ABS.
The sign for no rear bias is the handbrake light on as well as the ABS light.
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yeah - put the ABS back on. It only kicks in when the wheels start to lock, so whats the issue? After all this is the public roads, and not a track, so why would you be braking that hard anyway?
This. If your regularly driving it that hard on public roads that you feel the abs is interfering too much then you need to stop being a tit :grin: