GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Walkerboy on 17 July 2012, 19:44
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Hi
How much and what do I need for a vr6 turbo ...............and dont say a vr6.lol
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Search this site. I've posted enough info and search google for over sea's turbo build threads.
You need low comp pistons, forged rods, may as well lighten the crank and flywheel, hardcore clutch, strong gearbox with LSD, big brakes. A turbo manifold inlet and exhaust, the turbo with oil lines, fall custom ported head with turbo cams, solid lifters, updated valves, standalone ecu with costom map, the all the plumbing with fmic.
Oh and £10,000+
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You don't NEED low comp pistons or rods. As long as you keeps a sensible output. A spacer plate and standard block will do.
Plenty of standard blocks with a spacer run religious power without reliability issues.
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Hi
How much and what do I need for a vr6 turbo ...............and dont say a vr6.lol
Depends on if you want it to last a long time, to build it to last will not be cheap.
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been quoted around 4500 from my mates garage
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yeah 4500 is realistic, won't go bang, they don't need to run much PSI to be 300 + Bhp
2.8 lump is strong.
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Hi
How much and what do I need for a vr6 turbo ...............and dont say a vr6.lol
Depends on if you want it to last a long time, to build it to last will not be cheap.
When have you built a turbo engine. And what experience have you had with building a reliable engine?
My guess is never and none!
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When have you built a turbo engine. And what experience have you had with building a reliable engine?
My guess is never and none!
Lots, A series and loads of Golfs / Audis but thanks for asking :rolleyes:
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When have you built a turbo engine. And what experience have you had with building a reliable engine?
My guess is never and none!
Lots, A series and loads of Golfs / Audis but thanks for asking :rolleyes:
You forgot to highlight the turbo bit. :wink: which is all Internet bull you seem to have digested.
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You forgot to highlight the turbo bit. :wink: which is all Internet bull you seem to have digested.
Not at all, I will be honest and say that when I was involved it was more old school tuning, I tend not to believe what is written on the interwebs so much, tend to base my views from reading books on the subject from people that really know what they are talking about.
Yes I agree, spacer plate and wack a turbo on is a cheap and cheerful way forward, however my view is that it would be better to run lower compression pistons and strengthen the bottom end at least, if the job is worth doing it is worth doing right.
And yes I know people run spacer plates all ok but it is still not the way I would go.
Btw, I am not doubting the standard of the conversion on yours, I fully respect the work you have done in building something different :cool:
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Whether its the correct way to go or not. It works and if the engine is calibrated correctly it's not worth spending the extra £700 for pistons and the same for rods for not much gain.
350 - 400hp has been done plenty of times on a standard block. The engines are strong. Why spend more when you dont need to?
Too many people think they know about the "wrong" way of doing things, who have never done it or even been out in a car with one of these cheap and cheerful engines.
When they do. Their minds soon change.
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Right or wrong I would 100% go forge low comp and forge pistons.
Yeah 300/350 is a lot of power but my problem will be " I want more" so more boost etc.
When I was looking at building a turbo I wanted a honest 550whp low boost and still having the option to run high boost and not worrying about smashing my bottom end up.
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I think we've been down that road. Most people want a certain number, without actually knowing how fast or slow it would be. Big numbers for bragging right doesn't mean a faster car especially without traction.
A 250hp car would probably be faster point to point than a tyre smoking monster.
Unless all those components in the engine can be calibrated together with a good map, it's worth nothing.
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a grand on ebay for one of them turbo kits is a good way to blow your engine
buy good quality stuff
but why would anyone want to turbo a mk3 vr6 these days
get a r32 engine and turbo that
cost about the same in the long run
if i had the cash id buy this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/r32-turbo-engine-forged-hybrid-/170879124739?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c9308503
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Sign up to vr6oc and stealth racing where doing a turbo kit and everything for up 350bhp.
:smiley:
This info is useful as I want to turbo mine aswell :wink: but it's an auto :sad:
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hhhhhmmmmmmmmmm r32 is sounding good dude.lol
well at least i know my options now guys
cheers
kells hows your beast????
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just seen this on ebay looks like all you should need for 400 bhp :smiley:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK2-Golf-Corrado-VR6-Turbo-6-speed-conversion-400bhp-1-8t-g60-bbs-/160840189488?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D701167878141224968%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK2-Golf-Corrado-VR6-Turbo-6-speed-conversion-400bhp-1-8t-g60-bbs-/160840189488?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D701167878141224968%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26)
ends in 36 mins though so inless you have the money it sa no go wish i had a vr6 now :sad:
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I spoke to people running a reliable 400bhp for a couple years on standard engine. Just uprate rod bolts. VR6 was originally made to be a TDI block, so was made really strong. I don't have experience on building reliable turbo engines but surely if people have done it the cheap and cheerful way that's enough to say its good enough?
I got a few bits together ready to build a VR6T and I'm going to uprate the rod bolts and add in a spacer plate. I got HD springs and titanium retainers too :)
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my beast is well.. very well thanx :smiley:
but about to come to bits again this weekend for the fitment of the Bigger turbo MTM kit :evil:
will be anything unpto 350 HP mark when finished
i have got strengthened Con rods to fit too :smiley: no need for piston swap on the S3 engines as they are already Mahle Forged items in mine
My opinion on BHP.. trust me 250 bhp in a well set up mk3 will feel like 400 bhp
you will need a good LSD, i run Wavetrac, it works out about £1000 for one of these with the associated bolts that are needed etc.. then theirs the box rebuild costs etc
this for me has been the best mod yet.. and not something i would want to be without..
500 bhp in a 2WD golf would get blown apart by a well sorted mk3 with 250 hp, good numbers for bragging rights but in the real world it would be a bit of a waste, you could fit a Haldex set up or similar bt the weight of that and the power it would sap your best off going for a wavetrac diff and keeping 2wd (just my opinion)
id say ill be pushing it with unto 350 ponies so i may even down tune it to whatever is the most usable power.. this is something that will be decided on the Rolling road and custom mapping stage
The "cheap and cheerful" way as its been called is reliable, loads of people doing it this way. i say got for it
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I spoke to people running a reliable 400bhp for a couple years on standard engine. Just uprate rod bolts. VR6 was originally made to be a TDI block, so was made really strong. I don't have experience on building reliable turbo engines but surely if people have done it the cheap and cheerful way that's enough to say its good enough?
I got a few bits together ready to build a VR6T and I'm going to uprate the rod bolts and add in a spacer plate. I got HD springs and titanium retainers too :)
Go for it mate. Too many know it alls around that have no experience with this.
I have it on good authority that it can work very well. And this is from someone who tunes 600hp evos, 900hp skylines etc. Not just dubs. They even have to use spacers on these engines to give some safety when it comes to det. Some say about the squish is wrong but it's not as critical on FI engines than it is on NASP.
New pistons etc are 'ideal' but for the cost, you don't gain much!
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Yeah buddy. Rod bolts are like £100? Few new bits on the rebuild I guess, I'm not sure. Would be my first engine rebuild. Gotta start somewhere! Got a nice HX40 and manifold and the engine is in pieces.
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Vr engine is a doddle to work on aswell :cool:
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Yeah buddy. Rod bolts are like £100? Few new bits on the rebuild I guess, I'm not sure. Would be my first engine rebuild. Gotta start somewhere! Got a nice HX40 and manifold and the engine is in pieces.
What ate you doing regarding management?
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I spoke to people running a reliable 400bhp for a couple years on standard engine. Just uprate rod bolts. VR6 was originally made to be a TDI block, so was made really strong. I don't have experience on building reliable turbo engines but surely if people have done it the cheap and cheerful way that's enough to say its good enough?
I got a few bits together ready to build a VR6T and I'm going to uprate the rod bolts and add in a spacer plate. I got HD springs and titanium retainers too :)
Go for it mate. Too many know it alls around that have no experience with this.
I have it on good authority that it can work very well. And this is from someone who tunes 600hp evos, 900hp skylines etc. Not just dubs. They even have to use spacers on these engines to give some safety when it comes to det. Some say about the squish is wrong but it's not as critical on FI engines than it is on NASP.
New pistons etc are 'ideal' but for the cost, you don't gain much!
forged pistons dont gain anything
they just dont melt
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All this a well setup 250hp car will be faster than a car will 400/500. But what if you setup a 500hp engine well? LSD, 9" wide toyo r888's, etc.
I've seen enough big power fwd go down strips that's made me want one.
Build it well so you ain't got stupid lag and it will be fine.
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id turbo my vr6 but ive not got 2 grand for the emissions test (finland)
yes it would be nice to have the only street legal vr6t in finland ,but it costs to much to do it right
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forged pistons dont gain anything
they just dont melt
If the engine is calibrated right there shouldn't be heat problems anyway.
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forged pistons dont gain anything
they just dont melt
If the engine is calibrated right there shouldn't be heat problems anyway.
Even with 2 bar boost? On a track day? Heat will be a issue
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All this a well setup 250hp car will be faster than a car will 400/500. But what if you setup a 500hp engine well? LSD, 9" wide toyo r888's, etc.
I've seen enough big power fwd go down strips that's made me want one.
Build it well so you ain't got stupid lag and it will be fine.
Your having a laugh right ?
Theirs only so far you can push FWD
No way can you set 500hp well unless theirs no torque
Again a well set up car with 250hp and loads of usable torque will show you up
Big power is not always the way forward, for 500hp I'd say you need all
Wheel drive
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All this a well setup 250hp car will be faster than a car will 400/500. But what if you setup a 500hp engine well? LSD, 9" wide toyo r888's, etc.
I've seen enough big power fwd go down strips that's made me want one.
Build it well so you ain't got stupid lag and it will be fine.
Your having a laugh right ?
Theirs only so far you can push FWD
No way can you set 500hp well unless theirs no torque
Again a well set up car with 250hp and loads of usable torque will show you up
Big power is not always the way forward, for 500hp I'd say you need all
Wheel drive
No I'm not. It will have trouble putting power down and a smaller car would pull better, but get to 80mph and then the big power would walk it.
Would have to get some front end down force but that's nothing to worry about and easy to do.
Any of you raced a vr6 turbo with 500whp?
Bet the answer is no!
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I think your more bothered about pub bragging rights to be honest lol
:laugh:
500 BHP in a FWD gOlf 3 is laughable, even with a diff it's gonna be hard work
Complete non usable power, tame the torque down is the only way I would imagine and second gear starts etc
And we all know it's torque that wins the races :smiley:
Would be a interesting build tho :smiley:
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honestly I do know this and that's why I opted out on the idea, because was going to cost mega bucks and it would be a waste due to traction.
just wanted to wind you guys up :grin:
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get a vr6 syncro and turbo that
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As a race car, 250bhp fwd is enough. But as drag car without the worry of handling and corners, big power will own. Or on a rolling start. Some civic FWD drag cars are insane! Depends how you want to use it. If you threw a 500bhp vr6t in a mk3 and a 250bhp 1.8t and dragged them, the 1.8t would be quicker to 60 but past 100 the vr6t would be gone and keep going to 200mph I'd suspect.
I get really good traction with my standard diff. I have a solid front engine mount, which helps and the longer ratio's. I get traction in the wet in 2nd!
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Yeah buddy. Rod bolts are like £100? Few new bits on the rebuild I guess, I'm not sure. Would be my first engine rebuild. Gotta start somewhere! Got a nice HX40 and manifold and the engine is in pieces.
What ate you doing regarding management?
Was looking at running C2 chip on standard ECU. Its mapped for 93 octane (USA top pump petrol) so could run on our 95 perhaps? My mate said he found someone who had it modified for over here.. not too sure on any more info though.
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get a vr6 syncro and turbo that
Now we're talking although I couldn't live with the LHD so that would have to be converted for starters.
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Funny this should pop up.Ive been all afternoon looking at standalone management systems for my own vrs build.
In the end i decided on megasquirt.I used Emerald on the 300zx tt and it was good but would prefer something a little more up to date.
Omex seemed a bit too plug and play,which is good but i want more of a challenge.
I wont want anything more than 350bhp really.Coupled with a Peloquin i think it will be more than enough.
Interested where you got your titanium springs and retainers from LL as i can only find some in the us.
I was going to go for this package.
http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/mk3-94-98/vr6/engine/cylinder-head-valvetrain/stainless-high-flow-intake-valve-39mm-47.html
Also another great addition will be this reinforced clutch fork.
http://www.flipsidecustoms.com/OnlineStore.php
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I got them when I was in the states.
You can buy them over but I can't remember the site, it had a load of engine rebuild stuff if that helps.
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You going back anytime soon? :grin:
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Going onto 6 years standard internals + spacerplate 380brake. Never a hitch (stem seals being done - wiring loom tidying hence mess)
It needs a LSD but the 3rd gear pull is just immense :evil:
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p119/leigh_harty/IMG_0276-1.jpg)
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p119/leigh_harty/IMG_0278.jpg)http://
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Awesome mucho envious
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Just looking at that makes me feel happy.
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Going onto 6 years standard internals + spacerplate 380brake. Never a hitch (stem seals being done - wiring loom tidying hence mess)
It needs a LSD but the 3rd gear pull is just immense :evil:
But surely that's the "wrong" way to do it???? :cool:
Scrap it and get pistons and rods. :lipsrsealed: :rolleyes:
Do you have a dyno plot? :afro: bet theres some nice torque there.
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Sadly it's not mine but a very good mates. Personally I'm not a turbo person.... There's no replacement for disp...... Blah blah you get the point :grin:
Torque is around the 420 ft pound NOT nm :cool:
He's getting a gearbox with LSD though so all is good! Just taken long enough
Also did a 400 mile round trip to inters and back, got 1 run on the strip just befor that crash and not a single beat missed.... Forge is only needed when you can afford the extra ££
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get a vr6 syncro and turbo that
Now we're talking although I couldn't live with the LHD so that would have to be converted for starters.
are syncros only lhd
lhd is ok for me cos i drive on the right
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yeah man, thats cool. :cool: