GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Tomonator1985 on 23 June 2012, 15:40
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Hi.
Had the timing done around 500 miles ago. seems like its losing power the same way again.
How can this happen??
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might be worth checking the woodruff key on the pulley ok?
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talk me through that............
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Start tipex markers and check for movements dizzy, idle screws the usuall suspects
Haven't heard about the woodruff key going in a very long time guess check it to rule it out
Bet that caused a few head scratching moments :evil:
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cheers. it's basically nothing i can check on my self!
when the garage sorted it out last time it was out by a long way. engine was rebuilt using a old corrado donor.....should beexactly the same engine though right??
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New crank, engine out if its damaged can't weld it either. Heat damages the shaft plus if you repair it only becomes loose again. Most peeps struggle to remove the crank pulley bolt which if you get that far replace the crank bolt with a stretchy type.
I would start with basics first as most people end up dropping new block in :lipsrsealed:
Check if the crank bolt is loose it could just be that?
Was a cam belt done recently?
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I've got a doweled abf crank pulley, using a dot punch stem. New bolt and pulley from vw, loads of bearing lock and loctite, over 350lbft of torque (if I recall correctly), and been fine since. It gets hammered every day as well. The old 9a I repaired using a screwdriver shaft as a dowel lasted a while, but not forever, though that was old bolt, old pulley, and an impact gun to do it up, rather than a fooking great extension bar. But yeah back to the matter, check timing marks 1st, then go from there. Do a search, the basic 16v key ingredients/ checklists have been covered many a time..
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I've got a doweled abf crank pulley, using a dot punch stem. New bolt and pulley from vw, loads of bearing lock and loctite, over 350lbft of torque (if I recall correctly), and been fine since. It gets hammered every day as well. The old 9a I repaired using a screwdriver shaft as a dowel lasted a while, but not forever, though that was old bolt, old pulley, and an impact gun to do it up, rather than a fooking great extension bar. But yeah back to the matter, check timing marks 1st, then go from there. Do a search, the basic 16v key ingredients/ checklists have been covered many a time..
nice one. any links to a good checklist??
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damaged keyway reapir involves cranck out and milling out the keyway, then broaching out the pully to new keyway size. cut new key drizzel in bond lock and do the bolt up FT.
1.8 crancks are generaly redaly avalible so it's not like you'd ever bother tho
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what we talking price wise if i go to a garage?
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No it doesn't!! Buy a new pulley and bolt from vw for under £30. Pillar drill 1 or 2 holes in the pulley where it meets crank nose. Offer up and drill through pre-drilled holes into nose of crank a bit.use a dot punch stem as dowels, or something of similar tensile, cut them off flush where they protrude out of the pulley under bolt shoulder and bearing lock mating faces, threadlok threads and apply tonnes of torque to the bolt (I had over 350lbft if I recall). Jobs a good'un, trust me I've done it on an abf and a 9a, and they take daily heavy abuse. Can all be done by just removing the wheel for access! Happy days and well worth a crack at a £30 outlay, rather than pulling engine out + apart etc