GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: stainesy on 21 June 2012, 13:32
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Ok FINALY managed to get my caliper caryer bolt out and change the rear wheel bearing. I did the nut up then slackend it of so the toothed washer can just about move when bushed with a screwdriver. Put it all back together and put the wheel on. Gave the wheel a good hard tug each way. There is still a small amount of play. Not alot but a few mm. Is that normal or should it be rock solid. The other side that has not got a bearing gone has the same amount of play. Is a few mm of play ok?
Also the rubber oil/grease seal that goes over the inner bearing seemed diferant to the one I took out. The one I took out was clipped inside on the bearing and the new one was the same but had a wide rim on it that wouldn't let me push it inside to clip on. Although it did fit on ok but could easily fall off. What I did was slide that onto the stub axle then put the assembly over it. It seemed to seal once pushed up against the back of the stub axle and I'm hoping once I tightened the nut it may have forced it inside to clip in or something.
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Oh for fcuk sake. Just been looking at bearing kits on eBay and in all the pics the gti's have a smaller edge on the rear rubber seal and the ones that have drum brakes have the larger one like the kit I was given. Got a feeling iv just fitted a kit ment for dr brakes. :sick:
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aaaagggghhhh fcuk sake now have a grinding noise from the wheel. just jacked it up and the wheel is loose as fook. if the brake caliper wasnt on i recon i could pull it off its that loose. what the fcuk is going on.
it ust be coz of that bloody rubber seal not seating in the back. bet the buggered the bearings now. will have to get it off and have a look tomorrow morning. luckily i kept the rubber seal from the old one that will do till i go get another kit.
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Mate - that's a bad day on your car... :sad:
You've got 2 chances with that bearing now - fecked or still OK. I hope your luck improves on that one.
All the best with it tomorrow.
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yes very bad day mate :angry:
does anybody know if the rear wheel bearings on drum brakes and disc brakes are the same?
they looked identicle in every way apart from the rear seal being diferant.
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I had this happen to me on my ABF. I trimmed the seal down to the same size. I also put new discs on and had no problems at all :huh:
Did you change the race's? Or just the actual bearing?
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I did the hole lot. Changed races and everything was so easy. And the when I went to put it back together I noticed I could not get the seal to fit. I thought it may be war they are like and my old one was just worn down. So I put it on the best I could and fitted the wheel. It was fine for a little bit. Then grinding sound. Jacked it up and the wheel was really loose. What I think may have happened is as it was not flush with the rear of the hub now the out lip bit that you trimmed has warn away there is a 5mm gap.
Really hoping I haven't buggered the bearing or the stub axle. Although I only drove about half a mile.
So that's good anyway if you has no issue must mean they are identical apart from the seal.
Bloody thing :grin:
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Look on the bright side, at least the rest of us have learned something today.. :smiley:
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:grin: yeah I Spose there is that lol.
Just Gota have a look tomorrow and see if it's salvageable. If not I got a 4 mile walk to the car parts place. And spunk £12 on another bearing. Will have a look to make sure it has the right seal this time :rolleyes:
Just hope my stub axle is ok.
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I'd be suprised if the bearing is chewed after half a mile.
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duno mate. the grinding sound was pretty bad.
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I've seen someone ruin a bearing trying to fit it.
I would be surprised if you didn't ruin it having so loose for 1/2 mile
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It is very unlikely that you have done a taper bearing in by running it loose for 1/2 a mile. And for it to go wrong badly enough to damage the stub axle you wouldn't just have had a lot of play when you checked it after - you probably wouldn't have been able to turn the wheel by hand.
The worst case is you have a bit of pride, a £12 bill and a 4 mile walk to swallow tomorrow morning. That ain't that bad mate - I did it a few weeks ago for a starter motor.
Much more likely is that you have got away with it and we will see a post tomorrow afternoon saying you got it sorted.
And yes - thanks for the learn too - mine need doing at some point and I will def remember this... (http://www.bandit127.com/oof_stuff/images/thumbs-up.gif)
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When you have the right bearing......
Spin the wheel while doing up the centre nut until it starts to slow the wheel down, then back off a 1/4 turn.
wheel should move less than 1mm when you wiggle it and spin freely :smiley:
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you mean spin the disc mate? yeah i will do all this tomorrow wile i try to fix it. should be easy enough no i no these little bits of advise. i totaly forgot my haynes manual and left it at home. had a read and done it all as i should have apart from one thing. i forgot to spin it as i did it up aswell. so that could be a reason why it came loose.
oh well we lean by our mistakes dont we :grin:
will have another go tomorrow.
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No put the wheel on with two bolts. Leave the bearing cap of and removing the wheel centre cap, then spin.
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No put the wheel on with two bolts. Leave the bearing cap of and removing the wheel centre cap, then spin.
This
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I'd be suprised if the bearing is chewed after half a mile.
Agreed, it should be ok :smiley:
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Ok nice one. Cheers for the help and advice guys. I shall put it into practice after I walk the kids to school.
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Ok I took everybody's advice and I have just finished. Put the wheel on and spun it loads wile doing the nut up till the wheel had resistance then backed off a tiny bit till it span free. Wheel is solid now and I used the old seal wich fitted perfectly. Sweet. Cheers everybody.
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Doin mine soon so these tips will help me out abit :smiley:
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Ok another update. Just took it for a good drive round the block a few time round some twisty corners. Took it back to my garage jacked it up and had another check and all seems ok. If I grab the wheel top and bottom and give it a good tug each way there is like a nano mm of play you can barely feel and if I grab the wheel on each side there is the tiniest amount of play not even enough to notice just a slight tic feeling if that makes sence. So seems good.
although on the downside i must have forgot to pop my vw centre cap back in propply and lost it wile taking it for a drive :angry:
but hay fcuk it atleast i can drive my car again. woohoo. great advice peeps :wink:
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I would imagine the grinding noise was infact the ABS ring rubbing against the sensor if the bearing had that much slack in it. I had a similar issue on mine earlier this year, might be worth checking it for damage.
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had a good look today and found that the grinding was the metal inside the wrong larger seal between the rear of the hub and the bit at the back of the stub axle as it was not pushed in flush to the hub. cheers for the advice though fella.
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Ok cool, that was lucky then.
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yeah i somehow managed to dodge a bullet on this one :smug: :grin:
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Turned out nice again.. :smiley:
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Turned out nice again.. :smiley:
+1
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Oh yes :cool:
Thank fcuk :grin:
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what tools do i need, having a bash saturday
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what tools do i need, having a bash saturday
off the top of my head erm
allen key sockets for caliper carrier bolts
13mm and 15mm spanners for the caliper to carier bolts
pliers for the split pin
screwdriver and rubber mallet to take cap off.
24mm socket for the hub nut
hammer and punch to remove the races and i used 2 bits of wood to place the disc on ither side wil i tapped the old ones out.
some large sockets to tap the new races in. >>>>>>>little tip i used the old races to place over the new ones wile i tapped them in as far as i could. worked a treat.
there was other normal tools but cant remeber now.
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:wink: cheers
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Cheers Stainsey.
A tip and it sounds obvious to some - but I saw a Physics graduate wreck a bearing doing it once... Don't knock the bearing in with anything on the inner race. This will feck your bearing before it has been fitted.
Stainsey is right - you can use the old bearing to get it close - but don't overdo it and get it stuck. And then a pin punch working gently and evenly around the outer race to seat it if you haven't got the right size socket.