GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: gjroe78 on 17 June 2012, 20:42
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Hi guys,
Noticed a bit of a problem under acceleration
When I put my foot down the car starts to bog down a bit, sort of juddering at about 3000 revs maybe and as if the turbo is is sort of cutting in and out
Any ideas ???
MAF ???
Turbo ???
Coil pack ???
Oh it's on my 1.8T Bora
Cheers
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Any fault codes?
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Don't know mate, nowts come up on the dash and not got vagcom :cry:
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Don't know mate, nowts come up on the dash and not got vagcom :cry:
Get this bought then you going to need it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U281-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-VAG-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-tool-UK-/221040985066?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item337711c3ea
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Done :wink:
I just hope it's not serious as I'm frickin broke at the min and I need new tyres on the golf ASAP too :sad:
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First thing I'd do is to go and clean your throttle body. It's practically free, and you'd be shocked at both the problems it can cause when dirty, and the difference it can make to your car when cleaned. Takes less than an hour to do, half an hour if you've done it before.
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Right, bit of an update
had a bit of a root under the bonnet and found that the pipe from the air filter to the MAF was a bit loose and coming away under acceleration, so tightened all that up properly.
Plus it went in for a service and had been perfect till friday this week when the problem has reared its head again, i've checked the pipe and no movement there, so then i hooked the eBay fault finder up and found the following things
16396-???
16684- random misfire any cylinder
16687- cylinder 3 misfire
16795- secondary air injection system (B2) incorrect flow
17705- connection turbo-throttle valve pressure hose
17963- charge pressure upper limit exceeded
Im guessing this list is not a good thing :sad: :sad: :sad:
I will clean my throttle body today if i get a spare hour
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16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)
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16795 is a leaking secondary air pump, 17705 is the infamous boost/vacuum leak.
If I was you id order a forge SAI blanking plate. Do the N249/112 delete and scour under the unlet manifold for split breather hoses. Your best bet is ripping the lot out and fitting a catch can.
Doing this should go a long way to solving your problems. Id also clear those codes now go for a drive and see which come back as some might be old codes which have been sorted and not erased.
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what does the N249/112 delete involve mate?
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Just reduces the amount of vacuum line significantly. So there is less chance of a leak. It also bypasses the N249 valve which is known to fail from time to time.
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hmm i've been advised to take the dump valve/diverter thats fitted and fit a Forge 007P instead as he said the one on it was a bit crap
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7477923598_cb483a0474_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7109/7477922324_857dbe805f_b.jpg)
nowt to do with the problem but thats gonna cost me like £100 so cant do the catch can yet as broke as fook
Does anyone know if i should get the green spring(standard) or the yellow spring (modified)
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if the car is mapped get the yellow if its not been mapped then get the green :wink:
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thats what i thought, cheers cully :wink:
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AGU?
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Clear the codes and take it for a drive as some of them could be old ones :smiley:
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AGU?
Not if it has a secondary air pump.
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AUM
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Right took the car out for a spin and all seemed fine then a few miles later the problem is back !
I reset all the codes before I set off and plugged in again after I got back and the 2 cylinder faults came up again !!!
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Bad coilpack?
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Id say coil pack or wiring, try and swap cylinder 3 coil pack with another and see if the misfire moves.....
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Yeah I'll give that a try, can I just buy 1 or am I better changing the lot ?
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Yeah I'll give that a try, can I just buy 1 or am I better changing the lot ?
Depends on how old they are you may find others will go too, i would buy one (if that is the fault) and see how you get on.
Buy genuine ones cheap ones just don't last at all.
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If a coilpack has gone it sounds like to quote another member on here a retarded subaru :evil:
I also have 3 coilpacks of an ARZ sat in my garage as one went down and replaced all 4, decided it was good to keep some spare :smiley:
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**Edit have you had the car in to VW for the free coilpack recall yet?
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No rich I'm gonna ring the dealers when I get a chance as at work at the min
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Got my car in at the dealers today, only replaced 2 coilpacks as they said the other 2 were the right part number
still got the frickin problem though, but no error codes coming up though
Guessing its the MAF for sure now though :huh:
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see if you can borrow a working MAF first, be a shame to throw the cash away if it doesn't solve the prob
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I know mate yeah, problem is i don't know anyone well enough to ask to take their car to bits
Doe's anyone know of a way to test it ???
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try disconnecting it and seeing if runs better or logging the MAF reading via VAG COM...
I just did my mates and he only managed just over 100gm/s :grin: :grin:
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Is it safe to drive it without the MAF on to test it ?
Not got VagCom either :sad:
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yes but only like a quick test down the road sort of thing really
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This could be a ridiculous question but are mafs different in different model golfs ? I guess they have to be don't they :undecided:
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This could be a ridiculous question but are mafs different in different model golfs ? I guess they have to be don't they :undecided:
Yes
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Short and sweet answer to a dumb question :grin:
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First thing to do is check the sparkplugs. They will give an indication as to whats going on in the cylinder.
If it's been doing it a while, that plug is likely going to be shagged.
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Right, I bought a 2nd hand maf of eBay(that I have been assured works) fitted it this morning and still the problem exists !!!
Someone else has suggested the spark plugs would this cause the stuttering under acceleration ?
Oh I no longer have any fault codes after resetting and giving it a run.
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Id say they sold you a dodgy MAF.
But also take the plate infront of the inlet manifold off and check all the breather hoses for splits. Also check all the smaller vacuum lines. I would say these have got a good chance of contributing to your problem.
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Someone else has suggested the spark plugs would this cause the stuttering under acceleration ?
A car only needs 3 things to work.
Correct quantity of air.
Correct quantity of fuel.
Spark at the right time.
If one of these is missing, you'll get poor combustion.
It's also easier to start closest to the cylinder and then work backwards.
Even if the spark plug isn't the problem, it will give an indication to the problem by what it looks like.
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I've just emailed the place I bought the maf from and asked them why they were so sure it worked ?
I'm gonna have to check the pipes and plugs later as I'm off out in a bit so not gonna have chance to do owt.
Getting really pissed off with this now, just want to get it sorted :angry:
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Right, got a full refund on the MAF I bought, I am now thinking it maybe more to do with a pipe split now though as have noticed that the problem only occurs when the car has warmed up( maybe 5-7 min into driving) maybe when the pipes become a little bit more flexible.
Does this sound right or am I being a bellend ?
I have checked te pipes and can't see any splits or cracks though
Another question is what is the smallish silicone pipe that comes off the solid induction pipe ?
Cheers for any help guys
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Right bit of an update for anyone that cares, had it in at a garage on Thursday and have checked that the maf is ok by ordering a new one off VW fitting it and then testing it( he just sent it back after checking) and they are now 99% sure it's the secondary air pump as it makes a strange noise when starting that alerted him to it.
He has a mate who's scrapping a seat, so should have one to test on Tuesday
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A £17 forge blanking plate will sort that by removing the lot :smiley:
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What does it get rid of ?
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Secondary air pump, the tubes going to the airbox and tip (I think) from the pump, N112 valve, a load of vacuum line,
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Hmm I'm already running an induction kit and just ordered some new silicone hoses so it's probably too late for that to be honest
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Its even easier if your running an induction kit. None of the silicone hoses you can buy replace anything to do with thw SAI system. You just need the blanking plate and 1/2m of 3mm vacuum line :wink:
It also stops the tractor sound on cold start lol.
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Oh right, what's the point in the secondary air pump then if it can just be taken off and forgot about then, surely it has a purpose ?
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Pumps oxygen into the cat to lower emissions on cold start. More for the american market I think