GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: rageraver on 09 June 2012, 01:36
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hi guys i just picked up a golf mk 4 with a k04 turbo huge intercooler and full system, the boost dosent come in till 4k and then it pulls like a train, is this normal, when i asked the guy said i had it an econmy map done so it dosent boost till late, he has given me a mbc is there anything i can do to get it boosting early, i thought is shud start around 2.5k can i fit the mbc and remove the n75 valve ( thats if it isnt already removed and just running actuator.
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NO! Bin the MBC. A K04 should be boosting before 4k I think.
Check all boost and PCV hoses then get it to R-Tech for a proper map. Do not remove the N75. You can't just turn the boost up without changing the fuelling.
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Mine comes on boost around 2/3k
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NO! Bin the MBC. A K04 should be boosting before 4k I think.
Check all boost and PCV hoses then get it to R-Tech for a proper map. Do not remove the N75. You can't just turn the boost up without changing the fuelling.
This. A MBC is asking for trouble.
Sounds to me like a better map is needed :wink:
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Manual boost controllers can be fitted with the N75 but must be left alone once set by a pro
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Is there just a sh!t load of lag from a 'huge intercooler'? How badly to these things lag? :undecided:
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How much power you got under the hood? Any RR read out? You and Toby could become best of friends...Ko4 friends :grin:
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Mine comes on boost around 2/3k
Same, like late 2's, early 3's
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varies from wheel to wheel and clipping the turbine wheel 7 degrees slows the spool by ~500rpm but helps with surging.
Just take it to a competent tuning company and have it checked, odds are if your hybrid has a (5304-120-5018) turbine wheel clipped in a k04-022/23 turbine housing 4000rpm full boost is right. You don't want to make an uninformed decision and remove the n75 to stick a mbc on just because you think there might be something amiss...
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varies from wheel to wheel and clipping the turbine wheel 7 degrees slows the spool by ~500rpm but helps with surging.
Just take it to a competent tuning company and have it checked, odds are if your hybrid has a (5304-120-5018) turbine wheel clipped in a k04-022/23 turbine housing 4000rpm full boost is right. You don't want to make an uninformed decision and remove the n75 to stick a mbc on just because you think there might be something amiss...
and then worst case... BOOM
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hey im new to all this,
i removed plastic engine cover, and i found the n75 valve is not present and the 2 pipes are joined together.
i also found which i think is wrong and have changed, that the actuator pipe was fitted in the air intake pipe ( kandn filter than the maf sensor i guess then there is a nipple in the pipe were my actuator goes to) i have removed this and fitted it so it is on the intake manifold after the throttle body.. i think what ive done is correct as now it shud be reading intake pressure not air in pressure.
so basically now there is no mbc and no n75 valve its just running actuator pressure ( im right arnt i) it now seems to come on boost alot earlier and is maxin at like 6-7 psi which i assume is what actuator is set at.
please help me get this goin right as its had all the money spent in the right places just been piped and messed with by a idiot i guess.
what boost wud be safe limit. if i have to use the mbc, also i cudnt find the electrical connector for the valve???
i also have a recipte for a n75j valve but it must have been removed by prev owner to fit the mbc wich now also is removed
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also said to be running 230 when i brought it... i would believe this from the previouse owner ( the one who spent the dollar) but now its been messed with
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also it has no dmp valve but i have been given a bailey valve to fit
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Holy sh!t mate, get some pics of your setup and we'll try to guide you as to what the pipes should look like...
The way you've described means the ECU has NO way of controlling the boost even if it sees too much. One surge and you could have one of these
(http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/images/LET/fuelling_ignition_cooling/melted_let_piston_lg.jpg)
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yep wat i fort, could anyone post a step by step of what pipe goes where also wat about this n75 valve were wud the wiring be??
ll get pics tomoz
thats why i set it to actuator as that will only boost it like 7psi max.
no dumpvalve eaither...please help
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I'll get you a pic of how mine looks tomorrow if I get a chance to get out to it
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(http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/tobe1990/c8ab4531.jpg)
(http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu109/tobe1990/b5a99e7a.jpg)
Ko4 golf
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thanks for that not quite clear enuff..
heres a pic i have labeled to show how mine is... please help lol....hope it clearenuff
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/boostpipes.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6090219.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6090233.jpg)
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Looked like a bodge tbh, sure it's a ko4?
Standard tip ?? :huh:
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yep def ko4 have all reciptes everthing. was good till the last owner had it was all done good then his mate f**ked with it
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Receipt doesn't necessarily prove its on this car he sold you, he could have sold or kept the k04 I would definitely be asking questions, for starters I don't know if your aware but that front mount intercooler isn't a quality forge front mount intercooler but in actual fact a cheap eBay intercooler with forge sprayed on the core...
The turbo intake pipe is standard and the loom you labelled as having snapped wires go to your n75 valve which controls the boost...
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either way k04 or not i still need to sort all this pipeing out... i pretty sure its fitted tho! how could i prove, please help idetifie what i need to do . also wats intake pipe got to do with anything
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It's unusual to go to the trouble and expense of fitting a k04 only to go through yet more trouble to source a standard intake pipe. That in itself would leave doubt in my mind. A picture of your exhaust manifold is enough to tell if it's a k04 or not - assuming you mean the k04-022/023 and not the k04-001
As for the hoses, someone on here should have a picture of theirs. It's far too dark for me to get a picture right now plus I'm watching 'in hell' on Five usa
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ok,
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anyone? cud do with it being labeled if possible thank yuuu
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grab plenty of pics and upload them now its light. try get a pic of the blue tag on the turbo?
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i put a pic up of it all
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To be honest Im with toby on this one, most KO4 set ups look the same, mine isnt an AGU, its a BJX engine but still ours both look similar:
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s105/AshmondJ/8fdb09f0.jpg)
Get some more pics of yours up
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thanks for that not quite clear enuff..
heres a pic i have labeled to show how mine is... please help lol....hope it clearenuff
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/boostpipes.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6090219.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6090233.jpg)
you buy this from a guy in newton? i seen it about and the lad who had it before ragged the tits out of it, hope u get sorted dude
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even got the ko4 stick :wink:
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It will all be sorted very soon and yes I did lol. I think its got k04 why are youlot saying dif,just need to now were all the pipesshud b, refit a recirc valve unless no dv is ok and reinstate a n75 valves wich also red to no how it pipes. Up
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Agu engine code 2
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It will all be sorted very soon and yes I did lol. I think its got k04 why are youlot saying dif,just need to now were all the pipesshud b, refit a recirc valve unless no dv is ok and reinstate a n75 valves wich also red to no how it pipes. Up
I think members are saying it because out of concern they do not want for anyone to be conned.
The reason why they believe it is not a k04 is as follows:
1) You have a standard turbo intake pipe, which seems not least, strange given the expense and effort of going
2) It has a standard intake pipe - looks to be a k03 intake pipe which is different from a k04 intake pipe and the two are not exchangeable
3) An ebay front mount with a Forge on it would leave questions in my mind
4) You appear to be missing a recirculating diverter valve
5) Your wires to your n75 valve which is supposed to control your boost is cut
6) Just generally messy appearance of the plumbing and from what your suggesting something doesn't feel right
Although the plumbing for the n75 is the same on k04 and k03 variant engines, the placement of the n75 on the intake pipe is slightly different and needs to be said just to be clear so it's more simple for you to follow.
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Can you not take some better pics of the engine bay? One from a little further away and a better pic of your pipework?
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6090220.jpg)
ok but cud do with putting it back on topic about gettin the car i just brought back to some sort of state.... the rest of the car is sound actually really nice. just these pipes are all messed. the ductape you may c is covering a slight rip..( ive ordered a new t piece for it) please help some one must be able to give a picture step by step of wat goes were... thanks all of you
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Can you take a picture down the back of the engine?
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air intake joins turbo
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6100244.jpg)
intercooler joins turbo
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/cr250zrule/P6100240.jpg)
can we find out how all the pipes go now.. pleaseeee lol
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Is the start of the part number on the Turbo 06A?
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on th intake pipe i think so lookin at the epic
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is that a ko3s? :huh:
that looks very shoddy! is there black gaffa tape round the intercooler pipework on the right?
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Well it's not a genuine K04 as they never had the silencer
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read the post about the tape lol.... im gonna get this all good just need some help... we seem to of drifted of tho into a disussion on wat turbo i have no how all the pipes go
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Well it's not a genuine K04 as they never had the silencer
didnt think they did! :rolleyes:
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I'll get you pic and a description of where all my pipes go tomorrow mate, it's throwing it down at the mo
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thanks mate appreciate it
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Just gone out to get some pictures but it started raining so I only managed a few. In addition the position of my diverter valve may differ from yours, I also notice you have had your n249 bypass done already so this will serve as a suitable guide.
Here is my n75 valve (it's a boost control solenoid and connects to: 1) the turbo intake pipe 2) the turbo actuator 3) the boost pipe)
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/eea7304f.jpg)
Coming off the n75: top hose leads to the turbo actuator, left one leads to the charge pipe (as shown in the picture below)
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/56b0b542.jpg)
Under the inlet manifold you will have two small nipples for vacuum, one goes to your diverter valve and one goes to your fuel pressure regulator (as pictured below)
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/4bcb743e.jpg)
Above picture shows the vacuum line going from the inlet manifold to the fuel pressure regulator
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/08fc4cf2.jpg)
The above picture shows the other vacuum line from the inlet manifold going to the diverter valve.
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That's a k03 based turbo, I'd say if it's a k04 then it'll have to a k04-001 , where are you?
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rockymonkey loving all the polishing you've done
thanks for that. yeah bypass was done, thats pretty simple, thts all the pipes i need yeah , plus the ov that i t my boost guage in to one of the lines coming of the nipples yeah.
being as my wires were cut on the n75 valve and its not there, if i got scrappy and get one and the electrical connector ( ill snip it further down loom) i can just recrimp the wires plug it in and all will be good yeah?
also as i have no dv at the moment shall i run it without or fit the bailey atmospheric one i got... or is it better just without one.
going to replace all the vac pipes aswell and tidy the engine bay right up, get rid of all this ductape .
hopefully by end of tomoz you guys wont think its such a shed lol.... also the ad states car has a KO4 001 TURBO and tht is wat recipte is for to.
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so i have a ko4 yeah
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so i have a ko4 yeah
Your picture shows its either a k03 or k03s not a k04-022/023 also I'm fairly certain the k04-001 did not have a silencer on it's compressor housing as shown on your picture. It certainly looks suspicious unfortunately. Perhaps you should try to get in touch with the seller... especially if it was advertised as a k04
As for the t-piece for the boost gauge, tap in between the inlet manifold and the diverter valve.
You can just use any wire of the same gauge, solder or crimp to the plug to your n75 valve.
I personally would not recommend using atmospheric unless mapped for it, no diverter valve isn't good either on our small turbos.
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im told by prev owen he put a recirc valve on and it didnt run so good so he put the atmopheric one on.... ive removed it as i read on here its not good for it, but then maybe if car was mapped it would explain why it runs better with the atmopheric, wud i be able to tell if it wasnt good if i fitted it?
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im told by prev owen he put a recirc valve on and it didnt run so good so he put the atmopheric one on.... ive removed it as i read on here its not good for it, but then maybe if car was mapped it would explain why it runs better with the atmopheric, wud i be able to tell if it wasnt good if i fitted it?
What I meant was that, if your car was mapped to run an atmospheric dump valve then it's fine, I do not mean if it's mapped then it's fine.
Your picture shows that your car still has a mass air flow sensor so clearly it's not mapped to run off a table with only manifold absolute pressure sensor and revs, so your car was mapped to run recirculating only! It's easy for the previous owner of the car to so easily dismiss your questions with "o I did have a recirculating diverter valve but it runs better on atmospheric"
Very likely his recirculating diverter valve spring was the original green one which was likely weak to begin with anyway! Combined with the extra boost after remap it was probably not holding boost. Whereas the atmospheric dump valve was new and probably had a stiffer spring. Clearly he misconstrued this as the solution.
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i agree ill fit forged recirc one when i got the money, if theve got a standard one at the scrappy shall i grab that and fit it in the meantime, i will de chav this car lol
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A standard diverter valve will do temporarily, but unlikely to hold at remapped boost levels for a prolonged time.
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Some Chinese copy K04-001s have the silencer
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it was an ebay recipte like £280 brand new
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So when u say the engine is forged?? Any receipts for that?
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yep gen recites for parts and from garage with the reg and everything, and another recite from same company for fitment of port and polished head, just over 2k all together
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So the prev owner Spent all that money on a forged engine with ported head and then fitted a knock off turbo! Sweet Jesus.....
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lol tell m about it... recipte does say k04 001 or sumthin like that, be a peach once i finished lol
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probs ran out of dollar lol
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im guessing he used one of these as same price and cuz its based on k04 al the oil feeds ect are same as k03
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It looks questionable, receipts can be faked and looking at the state of everything I would say them receipts are probably not worth the paper it's printed on. Everything smells foul this far, I would have walked away from this car a lot earlier. You are not without my sympathy though.
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its all good. its gunna be fine, i like the car it drove fine i just wanted it done a bit better, i cud of not bothered looking at the pipes, but id rather make sure all is good, little effort here and there and before i no it its bang tidy.... reciptes not fakes ive checked, my brother works at one of the main suppliers!
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hi went scrappy and got an n75c fitted and wired tht, didn't have a gd record valve all were faulty refitted all the pipes correctly. Car after 2.5k is at like 4psi then around 4k and after it pics up and pullslike train. Fort it shud start around 2-3k to pull hard any ideas doesn't feel turbo. Charged till like3-3.5
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cud this just be lag as in gettin positive psi after like ,2k
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hi went scrappy and got an n75c fitted and wired tht, didn't have a gd record valve all were faulty refitted all the pipes correctly. Car after 2.5k is at like 4psi then around 4k and after it pics up and pullslike train. Fort it shud start around 2-3k to pull hard any ideas doesn't feel turbo. Charged till like3-3.5
What does it boost to after 4k?
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10psi guns gets n75 j as there is an old recipes for one but the chav cut it all out
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That's not boosting very high at all :undecided:
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its only a c valve tho, after ,4 k it lights the wheels up in ,2nd
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in my diagram on page 2 what is the pipe that goes from throttle to turbo?? and why is there a join, is this right??