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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: wolfsburgsfinest on 30 May 2012, 09:44
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Hi,
Just hoping for some advice. Got a 1.8v digifant mk2.
Replacing the cylinder head on my golf. But I have got to the stage where I need to remove the pulleys for the power steering and water pump before I can remove lower timing belt cover. I have taken out the arch liner to give myself some more room
Bit of a novice at the old car mechanics, what is the best way to remove the four allen head bolts from the pulley without the engine turning over, obviously i need to have something to react the torque against when I am turning.
Hope someone can help.
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I use a windy gun...
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Unfortunately not having a great deal of luck and tools are limited, 3 out 4 of the allen bolts were rounded. Tried using a torx bit, but not much luck, for one of them I got an old 1/2 inch 6 point socket over it and that worked. Socket still attached to bolt though....Will have to keep using my initiative.............
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Unfortunately not having a great deal of luck and tools are limited, 3 out 4 of the allen bolts were rounded. Tried using a torx bit, but not much luck, for one of them I got an old 1/2 inch 6 point socket over it and that worked. Socket still attached to bolt though....Will have to keep using my initiative.............
PITA when that happens....
Can't really suggest anything other than get the allen key socket and hammer it home and see if it helps... You can't really heat them up either!
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Try some heat on the Hex bolts the tap it with a hammer it might loosen the bolts a bit enough for you to get if off!
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If you google "Irwin Bolt Grip Nut Remover" you will see what will work, but I have in the past resorted to a sharpened cold chisel to get those particular screws out.
Other options are hammering a slightly oversize torx bit into the hex hole, or hammering a hex socket over the top of the screw he3ad.
I replaced them with new stainless ones to avoid the same problem in the future.
You stop the pulley turning by jamming a screwdriver between two of the screw heads.
h8v.
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As mentioned earlier I hammer in a hex socket in which is slightly bigger.
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Well you're going to be replacing the bolts anyway, so... mole grips. Can't beat them, just clamp them super duper tight.
Nick
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Well you're going to be replacing the bolts anyway, so... mole grips. Can't beat them, just clamp them super duper tight.
Nick
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Well you're going to be replacing the bolts anyway, so... mole grips. Can't beat them, just clamp them super duper tight.
Nick
Go On Thom - Spill the beans.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Well mission accomplished!!! I got the four bolts out. Combination of sockets, brute force and ignorance. Although I will be needing new bolts, 3 out of 4 are knackered. Anyone know part numbers of where I can get these??
Got a set of pullers onto the other pulley and it pulled off nicely.
Basically I am changing the cylinder head (got a recon one to go on) Head is ready to come away from block. Just got the timing belt and the 8 splined cylinder head bolts to come off. Then I will be ready to remove the cylinder head. Exhaust downpipe disconnected etc.
A little apprehensive about timing belt, never done one before. Got a replacement belt and tensioner. Which I will be doing When I change the head.
Haynes says to mark it all up before removal of timing belt, but as I am changing the head surely I will have to do that all over again when I set the timing. I was struggling to see any marks on the inner pulley I removed which are meant to line up with intermediate sprocket
Hope this helps you understand what I am on about.
This video 31 seconds in, Can anyone explain why I need to line the pulley with the sprocket at 1 min 13 seconds. I presume it is beacause it is attached to crankshaft sprocket???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV8sCkQeO1k
Should I just mark it all with tipex?
Surely when I change the head I will align camshaft sprocket at flange on the head, align dizzy for number 1 spark, and flywheel TDC.
This will be a steep learning curve, but I am enjoying this!!
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Yep soon as the head is off you need to double check the timing markers anyways!
TDC can always be achieved by sticking a bit of solder in the spark plug and turn the crank until it hit TOP and you will feel the solder on the crown at its max.