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Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Chris#101 on 14 May 2012, 18:46
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How do, I was just wondering if anyone with a similar spec or someone in know how could give a rough indication of max boost and rpm to expect from a stage 2 custom remap!?
my spec is
*'03 AUQ 180
*85k miles
*K03s
*Forge TIP
*Forge 007p
*Forge actuator yellow spring
*Craft '42 3" turbo back non res exhaust
*Toyosport F.M.I.C
*Toyosport C.A.I kit
*Oil catch can
*N249 valve bypass
*Devils own water/meth injection
thanks :smiley:
***EDIT READ A FEW POSTS DOWN FOR TURBO FLUTTER AFTER N249 BYPASS***
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Or anyone with a stage 2 ? :smiley:
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I hit around 22psi peak on my stage 2
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just a guess as my mates leaon with similar mods is pushing 250 bhp and 39o somit nm of torque :wink: :wink:
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just a guess as my mates leaon with similar mods is pushing 250 bhp and 39o somit nm of torque :wink: :wink:
and 24psi then hold at 22 i think
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How do, I was just wondering if anyone with a similar spec or someone in know how could give a rough indication of max boost and rpm to expect from a stage 2 custom remap!?
my spec is
*'03 AUQ 180
*85k miles
*K03s
*Forge TIP
*Forge 007p
*Forge actuator yellow spring
*Craft '42 3" turbo back non res exhaust
*Toyosport F.M.I.C
*Toyosport C.A.I kit
*Oil catch can
*N249 valve bypass
*Devils own water/meth injection
thanks :smiley:
Whens it going in for spec 2 and who's doing it? R-tech?
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Less boost = better.
Mine at 248bhp was 21psi peak and holding 18psi.
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How do, I was just wondering if anyone with a similar spec or someone in know how could give a rough indication of max boost and rpm to expect from a stage 2 custom remap!?
my spec is
*'03 AUQ 180
*85k miles
*K03s
*Forge TIP
*Forge 007p
*Forge actuator yellow spring
*Craft '42 3" turbo back non res exhaust
*Toyosport F.M.I.C
*Toyosport C.A.I kit
*Oil catch can
*N249 valve bypass
*Devils own water/meth injection
thanks :smiley:
Whens it going in for spec 2 and who's doing it? R-tech?
As soon as I recieve the correct nozzle injectors for the wmi.
R-tech will be doing it, looking forward to the 3 hour drive home :cool: last time I spoke to them they were fully booked for weeks, so hoping to get booked in within the next month
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*EDIT*
Instead of making another topic thought id do a bit of recyling :grin:
I did the N249 bypass at the weekend and just want clarrification that Ive did it right.
here's what ive done
(http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w455/Chriselvinmx/n249.jpg)
Ever since doing this, under load im getting turbo flutter/stall :huh: ive checked for split hoses loose connections and cant find anything, how ever this has only started happening since doing the bypass. If revving in neutral it 'blows off' as normal ie not flutter/stall.
bit baffled really, can anyone shed any light??
VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O83h9a_K3GY
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I did the bypass and then after a week or so it annoyed me, so just scrapped the N249 and N112 delete with the resistors and forge blanking plate and made a massive difference, bay looks much neater.
as for the fluttering, what size tubing did you use and have you cable tied them all on / checked them all ?
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I did the bypass and then after a week or so it annoyed me, so just scrapped the N249 and N112 delete with the resistors and forge blanking plate and made a massive difference, bay looks much neater.
as for the fluttering, what size tubing did you use and have you cable tied them all on / checked them all ?
What annoyed you about the bypass :undecided:?
I used 3-4mm & 5-6mm silicon pipe and all are clamped tight to the connectors!
Have you got a link to the N112 delete? :smiley:
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
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This is how mine is set up & I get nowhere near that amount of turbo flutter:
(http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy183/codling1234/Untitled-10.jpg)
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why did no-one remove the metal pipe?? :laugh:
do you leave the valves plugged in so there are no codes that come up??
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i've binned the lot and have resistors in with no codes,i still have metal plate in that the 249/112 should be on the back of as i used it to hold my catchcan
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i've binned the lot and have resistors in with no codes,i still have metal plate in that the 249/112 should be on the back of as i used it to hold my catchcan
what resistors did u use?? i know i can search but im being lazy :wink:
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10w 330OHM resistors the ones with the heatsinks soldered 2 bits of wire 1 each end,then got some male connectors and cut them to fit the holes,then covered them in electrical tape
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10w 330OHM resistors the ones with the heatsinks soldered 2 bits of wire 1 each end,then got some male connectors and cut them to fit the holes,then covered them in electrical tape
simples!!!! :smiley:
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This is how mine is set up & I get nowhere near that amount of turbo flutter:
(http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy183/codling1234/Untitled-10.jpg)
Should I be getting any flutter atall then :)?
How you've routed yours have you left the plugs in the valves or did you put resistors in?
Cheers
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I have a pipe from inlet to dv,the other one from inlet to fpr and a t piece on that to boost gauge the 249,112 and all sai gubbins are in a box in the shed.I used 2 resistors for 249,112 but none needed for sai as you get the improper flow code either way.if your removing sai you will need a blanking plate for where the combi valve is
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My friend's s3 had turbo chatter, turns out his DV was nackered. I'm guessing you've probably got a 007p, perhaps it needs servicing. It could be sticking?
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I did away with the hardlines and the SAI (but put a resistor on there anyway)
I just didnt think it felt right when I did the bypass and did the delete instead, did away with all the engine covers and the plate that holds the maze of tubes prone to leaking :tongue:
I did check and double check before I cut the hardlines out though, not something you want to get wrong :grin:
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Where do you lot screw the resistors as the ones with the heatsink have to be on metal to conduct the heat :undecided:
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They dont have to be on metal afaik, I have mine held in place in an air flow path to cool them :nerd:
mine dont even get warm
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They dont have to be on metal afaik, I have mine held in place in an air flow path to cool them :nerd:
mine dont even get warm
Sweet!!! That's good to know :wink:
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So the question is should I be getting any flutter atall?
OR have I done something wrong?
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Mine doesn't
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yeah you shouldnt be getting the flutter at all.... what way round do you have your dv??
got a pic of your bay?
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If it makes a whoosh its the right way, if it sounds like a high pitch bird chirping sound its the wrong way!
Although some people have them the 'wrong' way, there are different opinions as to whether this is bad for the car or not
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This is how mine is set up & I get nowhere near that amount of turbo flutter:
(http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy183/codling1234/Untitled-10.jpg)
Right I tried routing it this way this evening bypassing both valves but still leaving the electrical plugs in and still fluttering like a whores minge in the wind.
double and double checked for split hoses/ loose connections but none :huh:
Took apart the recirc valve which was in immaculate condition internally and is moving as it should!
Holding a solid 10psi
Ive hit a brickk wall :lipsrsealed:
This has only started happpening since doing the bypass !?!
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Have you tried running it with the electrical plugs disconnected?
Just shell the £20 odd quid for the blanking plate and get rid of them rather than bypassing them
Like I said, when I did this it didnt seem to run right at all and since the delete been much better and you lose the SAI which weighs as much as a medium sized dog :grin:
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I think I may have found the problem :undecided:
Had another look at the diverter valve and on second look I think I may have found the problem. (probably didnt help the first time i took it apart I was hanging out my arse)
Am I right in thinking theres supposed to be an o-ring in that groove? :undecided:
(http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w455/Chriselvinmx/dv.jpg)
(http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w455/Chriselvinmx/dv2.jpg)
My gauge at idle sits at -22hg !? although Im sure it has always sat this low prior to this flutter situation!?
can anyone comfirm? :smiley:
thanks
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http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/433829.aspx
doesnt look like it should be raised :undecided:
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Mines not a 007p I dont think. how ever I would say that groove has been machined out on mine ?? :undecided: