GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => General discussion => Topic started by: bobbarley on 16 April 2012, 20:52
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(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/480173_387604691274332_369062543128547_1166567_2019200972_n.jpg)
This is awesome!
The Seat is nice but I think I'd have added some more light trails in PP to it.
How did you judge the white balance so well?
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(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/480173_387604691274332_369062543128547_1166567_2019200972_n.jpg)
This is awesome!
The Seat is nice but I think I'd have added some more light trails in PP to it.
How did you judge the white balance so well?
Custom white balance or white balance preset, or shoot in raw and adjust white balance in ACR.
I never use Auto white balance anymore for that reason.
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Must make a note of learning about white balance more. It makes one of the biggest differences that I can see when doing night time shots (my favourite).
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(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/480173_387604691274332_369062543128547_1166567_2019200972_n.jpg)
This is awesome!
The Seat is nice but I think I'd have added some more light trails in PP to it.
I would have liked there to be no light trails at all, but there where so many cars! Other photos the light trails seem to breakup the photo badly. As the cars where moving very slowly past.
How did you judge the white balance so well?
Becuase I'm so DAMN amazing..... :grin: haa no it was luck it was on auto. But they where lovely white street lights not the horrible orange ones. I do also always shoot in RAW. So makes it easier to change in lightroom. I can never seem to get the preset white balance to work :undecided:
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Must make a note of learning about white balance more. It makes one of the biggest differences that I can see when doing night time shots (my favourite).
It also makes a huge different on inside shots. Your camera will have white balance presets like mine: sunlight, shade, cloudy, tungsten (normal bulbs), flourescent, flash, 4100k (not used this yet) and custom (where you take a photo of a something white in your setting to get the white level correct).
Pick which ever preset most suits the lighting of the scene. This will improve colours no end.
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white balance presets and all that jazz are such a waste of time, just shoot raw and you can have whatever balance you like!
loving the first shot (agree with ridg that a few more light trails would make it pop) :cool:
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white balance presets and all that jazz are such a waste of time, just shoot raw and you can have whatever balance you like!
Personally I'd rather have the white balance right in camera, even if shooting raw, because then all your shots will have the same white balance (if you do it in photoshop each shot will be slightly different) and also your preview on screen will have the right colour balance so you can tell if the shot worked or not.
I try to get the shot as close to what I want in camera (as you would with film) and then only do minimal editing later.
Certainly when shooting video, you do the white balance before shooting and then shoot a scene. It takes way too long to colour balance video footage to skip the white balance stage.
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white balance presets and all that jazz are such a waste of time, just shoot raw and you can have whatever balance you like!
Personally I'd rather have the white balance right in camera, even if shooting raw, because then all your shots will have the same white balance (if you do it in photoshop each shot will be slightly different) and also your preview on screen will have the right colour balance so you can tell if the shot worked or not.
I try to get the shot as close to what I want in camera (as you would with film) and then only do minimal editing later.
Certainly when shooting video, you do the white balance before shooting and then shoot a scene. It takes way too long to colour balance video footage to skip the white balance stage.
This
Having the correct or a close WB when shooting makes it so much easier to review your work and speeds up PP.
Although both photoshop (adobe camera raw) and Lightroom have a sync button that allows you to syncronise the white balance (as well as other settings) across a number of frames. It's worth keeping in mind that unless you're shooting in a studio or under fixed lighting the colour temperature is going to change.
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So how does it work customising white balance when taking photos? I have absolutely no idea. I always stayed away from it because I thought it involved having to mess around with a lot of complicated settings.
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So how does it work customising white balance when taking photos? I have absolutely no idea. I always stayed away from it because I thought it involved having to mess around with a lot of complicated settings.
depends on your camera, on my Nikon (D300) it's as simple as select custom white balance, hold the white bance button till it flashes, take a photo of a reference card (white paper or neutral reference) camera flashes "good" job done.
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Or in Canon, shoot something white in the light you want, go into the menu system and select the image to use for custom white balance, then select Custom White Balance in the picture set up and away you go.
If I'm honest using custom white balance under sodium lights at night gives a falsely 'white' image. You need to be pretty careful with it, if you want an actual true representation of what you saw.... or you can have the 'balanced' version which takes the yellow out of it.
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On my Sony (A350) go to White Balance, scroll down to Custom, press right to Custom Setup, press enter (centre of d-pad), aim camera at something white (piece of paper) and press the shutter take photo, this photo pops up on screen (and give you a colour temp value eg 2500k), if you're happy with the "white-ness" of the image press enter. Done.
When you're finished in those lighting conditions you can change back to a preset or do another Custom White balance.
It takes about 10 seconds on my camera, which is probably close to your A200.
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On my Sony (A350) go to White Balance, scroll down to Custom, press right to Custom Setup, press enter (centre of d-pad), aim camera at something white (piece of paper) and press the shutter take photo, this photo pops up on screen (and give you a colour temp value eg 2500k), if you're happy with the "white-ness" of the image press enter. Done.
When you're finished in those lighting conditions you can change back to a present or do another Custom White balance.
It takes about 10 seconds on my camera, which is probably close to your A200.
I was having a tinker around before and that's exactly how I did it as well, so I know I'm doing it right, yay! :grin:
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Wow just looked at this setting on camera never realised it was so easy to do lol
Couple of quick questions:
Is it ok to keep a bit of folder whitena4 paper in camera bag then just take pic of it to set white balance?
And I'm going to a couple of meets soon and they are going to be under white light, what setting do i need?
High f or low f lol
Just purchased 'understanding exposure' book just haven't had time to read any of it yet :lipsrsealed:
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Is it ok to keep a bit of folder whitena4 paper in camera bag then just take pic of it to set white balance?
Quite a few people do this :smiley:
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Wow fail on the spelling lol, bloody iPad.
Will do that I think then.
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High f or low f lol
hehe :tongue:
All depends on what your trying to take a photo of. A lower Fstop will give you a closer depth of feild meaning things in the background will all be slight blured. A higher Fstop means more stuff with be clear. But you will need a longer shutter.
I would strongly surgest a tripod for meets! A high Fstop and a long shutter speed. Maybe a flash to do some light painting with if you fancy.
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High f or low f lol
hehe :tongue:
All depends on what your trying to take a photo of. A lower Fstop will give you a closer depth of feild meaning things in the background will all be slight blured. A higher Fstop means more stuff with be clear. But you will need a longer shutter.
I would strongly surgest a tripod for meets! A high Fstop and a long shutter speed. Maybe a flash to do some light painting with if you fancy.
You're going to WED or Homegrown aren't u? Will look on eBay now for a tripod lol :grin:
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Yup Homegrown hopefully if in the country :smiley: I'll give you some pointers. I also go to West London Collective. Massive show of cars there to photo!
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Can we clear up the F-stop business..
F-stop is the size of the hole allowing light through, this also affects the focal length of the shot you are about to take. So an F5.6 has a big hole and low depth of field in comparison to F22 which has a smaller hole but a better depth of field or the distance 1/3 in front, 2/3 behind the subject that is in focus.
If you imagine a correct exposure is the relationship between the shutter speed and the aperture, therefore if you have a big hole, it lets more light through, so you need to expose for less time. A smaller hole will take longer to let the same amount of light through...
What you can do is bracket exposures, so if your camera says that a correct exposure for a scene is F22 at 1/100th you can go F22 at 1/250th and F22 at 1/60th, which will overexpose and underexpose the images, but will sometimes yield better results than a "correctly" exposed image.
So, if you want lots of detail you run with a higher F stop (which is actually a smaller hole) and if you want to focus on key areas, you run a lower F stop. Just remember to play and have fun :D
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Can we clear up the F-stop business..
F-stop is the size of the hole allowing light through, this also affects the focal length of the shot you are about to take. So an F5.6 has a big hole and low depth of field in comparison to F22 which has a smaller hole but a better depth of field or the distance 1/3 in front, 2/3 behind the subject that is in focus.
If you imagine a correct exposure is the relationship between the shutter speed and the aperture, therefore if you have a big hole, it lets more light through, so you need to expose for less time. A smaller hole will take longer to let the same amount of light through...
What you can do is bracket exposures, so if your camera says that a correct exposure for a scene is F22 at 1/100th you can go F22 at 1/250th and F22 at 1/60th, which will overexpose and underexpose the images, but will sometimes yield better results than a "correctly" exposed image.
So, if you want lots of detail you run with a higher F stop (which is actually a smaller hole) and if you want to focus on key areas, you run a lower F stop. Just remember to play and have fun :D
sorry to nit pick but the focal length effects the aperture as the actual size of the aperture is the focal length (f) divided (/) by the number
this is why "cheap" zoom lenses have a wider aperture on the short end and a smaller (larger f number) on the long end.
see the sticky
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=114168.0
as a footnote, you've also got the hyperfocal distance.
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On another note, don't scrimp on a tripod! I bought a cheap £10 and it was beyond useless, ended up in the bin.
Have since purchased a Hama one and it's 100 times better!
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just got a tripod from argos. only £20 seems ok to start off with :cool:
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White balance correction can be useful but only in the right circumstances. As above, if you're after a "true" representation, you need to remember that white will look different in different circumstances. Some people have a white card as well as a grey card.
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I've been using manual white balance at a couple of local meet and really impressed with the pics I can get.
Here's a couple, there not great but better then using the flash lol
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/7122386273_fd443f7d79.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7122386273/)
hg (13) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7122386273/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7216/6955547648_e33b55f721.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6955547648/)
SAM_5593 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6955547648/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7101593351_7b7376681f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7101593351/)
SAM_5527 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7101593351/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8141/6976251772_2cd575b127.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6976251772/)
hg (14) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6976251772/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
Was having problems with the manual option before it got dark as I think my iso was too high so pics were quite blurry and grainy but when it got dark changed the white balance and got the above shots which im happy with :smiley:
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I've been using manual white balance at a couple of local meet and really impressed with the pics I can get.
Here's a couple, there not great but better then using the flash lol
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/7122386273_fd443f7d79.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7122386273/)
hg (13) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/7122386273/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8141/6976251772_2cd575b127.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6976251772/)
hg (14) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/76607792@N02/6976251772/) by jboyphotos (http://www.flickr.com/people/76607792@N02/), on Flickr
Was having problems with the manual option before it got dark as I think my iso was too high so pics were quite blurry and grainy but when it got dark changed the white balance and got the above shots which im happy with :smiley:
Looking good :smiley: Notice how the second one has a lower F number so the background is blured. Compared to the first one. Both nice in different ways
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I did that on purpose :rolleyes: :grin: