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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Sam on 11 April 2012, 17:10
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Ok so as per my build thread, head rebuilt and slapped on today.
We have issues, timing is correct. Set everything to tdc which corrasponded perfectly with the marks on the cam belt and the cam pulley what i made before. I then pumped her over by hand a good few times as soon as the head was back on and it was all bisto. Then filled with oil and primmed her. Spun up like a dream. So; fuel in, plugs in... nothing apart from jizzing fuel all over the bay, tightened up ALL fuel lines and its all good now but still only splutters slightly. Any ideas?
I have checked my list of stuff I undid and checked all the airlines, oil lines and fuel lines I can think of and dizzy is back on the correct way.
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No one?! :undecided:
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digi or kjet?
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Air in the fuel lines?
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Stale fuel?
Fuel filter clogged?
dodgy spacers :laugh:
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I'll lock it :grin: :grin:
Hydraulic tappets not full? tow start FTW :tongue:
Thom
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Metering head's got the ar$e with you.
Exercise the flap a couple of times and try it again.
Then get it set by a profeshnial who knows how to deal with retarded injection systems.
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Metering head's got the ar$e with you.
Exercise the flap a couple of times and try it again.
Then get it set by a profeshnial who knows how to deal with retarded injection systems.
I was sooo carefull with it though. What should I do? Take it appart and give it a poke?
digi or kjet?
16v
Air in the fuel lines?
Dont think so... how could I check?
Stale fuel?
Fuel filter clogged?
dodgy spacers :laugh:
Fuel has been in there since sept but should be ok surely?
I'll lock it :grin: :grin:
Hydraulic tappets not full? tow start FTW :tongue:
Thom
Tappets sound good to go, if they werent full wouldnt they rattle?
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Its hard to say with fuel lines and how clean they are I've known fuel filters to be blocked due to pressure and non pressure with crap from the lines suddenly coming away to cause blockages?
Also carbs to do the same which is why I spray sh!t loads of carb cleaner before I crank and during!
Try taking out the plugs and stick them over a gas hob to dry off any excess oil on them and then try again.
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Are you convinced that the Dizzy is not 180 out... seen it SO many times Sam!
And tappets, could well be quiet, but still need oil, who knows! A quick tow start will get oil round so much better than cranking over with the starter, then you'll know one way or the other, and eliminate
Thom
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Dizzy was 180 out, but she still wont start. Here is a video of the plugs in action, I assume they should have a little more 'pazaz'n than this?
(http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu324/caistor_bmx/th_VIDEO0011.jpg) (http://s660.photobucket.com/albums/uu324/caistor_bmx/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0011.mp4)
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I don't think the sparks will have much 'pazaz' while earthed like that.
Oh and as far as giving the Metering head a helping hand, you don't need to take it to bits, just move the plate up and down a couple of times and ensure it can move freely. not that I've ever had to do this. Despite their antique nature, I have never had an issue with one yet.
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So open the air box and fettle the plate a couple of times? Carb cleaner or somthing on it too?
I always test my plugs like this, i used to just rest them on the frame of my mx bike back in the day and it worked so resting them on the engine is the same thing no?
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Yeah just lift the Metering head off the airbox and gently push the plate upwards to replicate air flow pushing it up, when you let go it should come back down on it's own. Check it does this smoothly and rests properly. Do it a couple of times.
If you really want to go mad on it, you could remove the injectors and test the fuel rates according to plate movements but this requires quite a bit of setup beforehand.
I just don't think resting plugs on anything will give a strong connection compared to pressure or clamping. It works because the power is high but may not give you the same spark you'd expect when fitted.
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Surely there's nothing wrong with the equipment, you've just missed something on re-assembly. If everything worked prior to head coming off then the metering head is fine-they don't just stop working for no reason (never seen one failed yet). Check all timing, all wiring, pull the flow off the m/h and check you have fuel, then either pull an injector or remove a plug to confirm fuel getting in. Check things like throttle microswitch for correct function, and all vac hoses, electrical connections etc. I assume your pump primes fine etc on ignition? I've had my kr 9a and abf engines in + out a million times, and its never a hardware issue if you havve starting/running problems, its always been because I've left something off and either forgotten or over looked it.
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Try bypassing your kstar and plug the lead directly into your ignition amplifier, oh and make sure the ECU tray is bolted down properly, a bad earth on this was giving me a poor spark....
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16v metering heads can fail if you look at them in the wrong way,
if you cam and ignition timeing is good, take the plugs out burn them clean they will have got soaked trying to start it with timeing out. if that dosent get it going i normaly find somethign flamable and spary it at the throttelbody when crancking. it'll soo let you know i it wants to run