GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Nino on 13 March 2012, 11:39
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Hi guys, my cousin has posted this before a while back but we have done some more testing..
His mk2 golf gti 16v (KR engine) wont turn since head gasket replacement.
Symptoms: Turn the key, and it either clicks, or makes a quiet surge sound and resets the clocks.
Weve replaced and tested the starter - ITS NOT THE STARTER.
Weve changed batteries - ITS NOT THE BATTERY.
The thing wont even turn, so please dont say check plugs and leads etc because it wont even get that far.
Weve tried running a lead to the starter straight from the battery just in case its faulty from the key. Same thing happens.
It seems as if the starter is trying to turn something that wont turn so its draining power.
The engine will turn off the crank by hand, so its not jammed against valves.
Baffled.
Please help, cheers guys.
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Compression?
So it doesn't even crank at all?
Sounds like Electrical
Checked that coil and imoboliser is not engaged or crossed wires?
Check you have 12V to the starter when ignition is turning over?
Check all relays and fuses?
check for all electrical contacts earths around the block itself!
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It must turn over by hand then, as you've refitted the head and cambelt? You must have turned it over via the 19mm multipoint bolt on the crank pulley I assume to time up tdc, (proving with long shaft down cyl 1 + notch on flywheel) then turned the top over to tdc (with cam cover off proving the two cam dots are at quarter to three position/tdc, and that the pulley outer mark confirms this). If both top and bottom are bang on tdc when belt tensioned you shouldn't have a problem. If you have fitted belt a few teeth out or somehow filled a cylinder it may be locked out, and stall current on starter motor is drawing all your amps. Go back to basics with it all, static timing 1st I reckon
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Have you tried it with the plugs out?
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Have you tried bum starting it?
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Have you tried bum starting it?
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :evil:
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The car is timed, tdc and everything. We havent yet tryed bump starting it, my cuz does not want to do that.
Today, we plan to test the starter motor off the car, then test it on the car but off a spare battery to eliminate mechanical resistance. Does anybody know which terminals need to be crossed with the positive in order for the pin to come out AND turn... so far weve only got it to spin when bench testing.
cheers guys
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Take the plugs out and try turning it over.
The last one like this I dealt with was where the K-Jet had been bumped (easy to do) and had kindly filled up the cylinders with petrol on the first starting attempt, then locked the engine. :grin:
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I did try that before mate, but ill try again with all plugs out yes? Also, what if it is filled, what will happen?
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Let's put it this way, I wouldn't want to be standing in front of the engine with a lit fag when the motor's turned over. :grin:
Yes, all plugs out.
Check your earths, duplicate, or replace if in doubt.
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OK heres a decent update for a change, We tested the Starter, seemed ok, so got it back on the car, put a new batt on (again), removed all the plugs and tryed the turn, Hey presto, she turned this time! so we got the plugs back in and after a few trys for the 1st time in almost a year and 6 months we hered the Roar for the first time :D
However this has now brought us to our next problem, shes running VERY lumpy and struggling to tick over, any advise?
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When mine was like that, i cleaned the ISV and the 3 temp sender connections screwed into right side of the head infront and below the dizzy.
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Brilliant when my cuz gets home from work, we will try that.
He has also asked me to ask you lovely people, is there a way to LOCK the flywheel in place at all? because he said when he tensioned the belt the flywheel comes a few degrees out.
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Which belt are you tensioning?
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Which belt are you tensioning?
Timing belt, We have got it running, but its splittering on idle, and revs creep up and down sometimes when cold. Im thinking it now needs a tuneup.
Also what would cause an insane strong petrol smell to the point where the fumes where making our eyes water badly.
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The stupid flappy plate thing in the stupid shaped bowl thing will have been knocked, which means the mixture's miles out.
You'll need to take it to some old fart to get it tuned in properly.
Then the temperature will change, or someone will look at it funny and it'll go out of tune.
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Shouldn't need to lock the flywheel to tension the belt, are you using the proper tool to tension it? Only thing that'll happen is the cam pulley will move slightly. Have you double checked the timing and are you using the flywheel tdc mark?
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Shouldn't need to lock the flywheel to tension the belt, are you using the proper tool to tension it? Only thing that'll happen is the cam pulley will move slightly. Have you double checked the timing and are you using the flywheel tdc mark?
TBH i don't know why he wanted to know about that as in my op the car is timed fine, because if it wasn't surely there would be some knocking or some damage would of happened when we test drove it, I personally think it does just need a good tune up, i gotta say thou after not being able to start it for over a year then to drive it up the street was just pure amazing the feeling can't even be explained, all i know now is, i got the bug and I miss my golf lol
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The stupid flappy plate thing in the stupid shaped bowl thing will have been knocked, which means the mixture's miles out.
You'll need to take it to some old fart to get it tuned in properly.
Then the temperature will change, or someone will look at it funny and it'll go out of tune.
LOL. I can smell the frustration.
Yes i used tdc flywheel AND cam marks, no i didnt use the proper tool. Please dont tell me i need to? cos to do that i gotta get at the tensioner again, which means taking the STUPID vbelt pulleys off to get the STUPID bottom cam cover off and then struggle to get the STUPID vbelt pulleys back on because the bolts never line up properly.
What i mean is i had cams AND flywheel at TDC but everytime i gently put the cambelt on it slightly pulled the flywheel out a tiny bit. Its like it wants to sit a tiny bit out
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As long as you're not moving it a tooth out then it'll be fine, timing marks aren't always perfect - if the head has been skimmed in the past for example.
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Also if it was a tooth out wouldn't it have kind of gone bang by now?
So this strong NUCLEAR smell is likely to be the fuel mix? Which means adjusting that little screw in the metering head?
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16v's can run 2 teeth out (at least) and still have no piston/valve contact!!
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Ok guy tried retiming her last night im gonna have another go today. With regards to the flywheel mark, there seems to be two notches near TDC... one slightly more obvious, with like a metal nipple thing in between. Which of these is the actual mark, or must it be somewhere between them?
Anyone whos done it will know what i mean
thanks
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The large diamond cut out is the 6deg btdc mark and the little dimple is tdc.
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Right i thought so, so it needs to be timed with the tdc mark then.
Well, for some strange reason, when i line that mark up and take up the belt tension, because theres a bit of slack between the crank and intermediate pulleys, the crank moves while it takes up that slack and therefore puts the flywheel out a bit. It just WILL NOT sit right at tdc. I can get it in line with the 6 degress btdc mark, but NEVER the tdc mark.
Does anyone have any ideas or seen this problem before?