GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: iain cooper on 07 February 2012, 16:21
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my 8 valve GTI has been in the garage on SORN for about 12 years ( 1987 80000mls and had her since new )
planning to put her back on the road and will need tyres/battery/etc
any tips re starting her for first time after 12 years ? any advice much appreciated
thanks
Iain
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New petrol.
Is the battery ok?
Take off the dizzy cap and give it a good clean.
Take the plugs out and see what condition they are in.
Have a good look around at everything.
It should start after a while, but come back if it doesn't and we'll take it from there.
My other mk2 Golf is 13 years sorn.
:shocked:
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Spin it over just on the battery for a while to build up oil pressure than crank it with the leads on to fire it up.
Nick
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Spin it over just on the battery for a while to build up oil pressure than crank it with the leads on to fire it up.
Nick
My Audi S2 was sorned for 6 years and all I did was connect the battery and she fired up 1st time....
But the first thing I did was get a complete service done and got all the fluids changed....
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Deffo change that oil and fuel as above. :sick:
Whats the handbreak like?
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Spin it over just on the battery for a while to build up oil pressure than crank it with the leads on to fire it up.
Nick
This.
Remove the fuel pump fuse and centre ignition lead, and crank over on the starter.
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Deffo change that oil and fuel as above. :sick:
Whats the handbreak like?
Good point, mines always off after learning a valuable lesson as a youngen.
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Brake lines tend to corrode from the inside out, so that would be the first thing I'd be changing once its running.
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If its rubber, replace it. If its liquid, replace it. Simples :smiley:
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Remove the fuel pump fuse and centre ignition lead, and crank over on the starter.
Beter than that - take the plugs out and spin it over to build oil pressure - much less effort needed from the battery.
Brake lines shouldn't be rusted out unless it was left with old fluid in it that was full of water. :rolleyes:
Get it running, do the fluid changes and be prepared for a couple of breakdowns.
Might be worth changing the cambelt before you do too much - has the most potential to stop the whole shooting match dead in its tracks.
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Remove the fuel pump fuse and centre ignition lead, and crank over on the starter.
Beter than that - take the plugs out and spin it over to build oil pressure - much less effort needed from the battery.
Brake lines shouldn't be rusted out unless it was left with old fluid in it that was full of water. :rolleyes:
Get it running, do the fluid changes and be prepared for a couple of breakdowns.
Might be worth changing the cambelt before you do too much - has the most potential to stop the whole shooting match dead in its tracks.
I thought they were non intrusive anyhow?
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Remove the fuel pump fuse and centre ignition lead, and crank over on the starter.
Beter than that - take the plugs out and spin it over to build oil pressure - much less effort needed from the battery.
Brake lines shouldn't be rusted out unless it was left with old fluid in it that was full of water. :rolleyes:
Get it running, do the fluid changes and be prepared for a couple of breakdowns.
Might be worth changing the cambelt before you do too much - has the most potential to stop the whole shooting match dead in its tracks.
Good point about removing the plugs.
Would you recommend turning it over by hand first?
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Would you recommend turning it over by hand first?
If you concerned about the engine being siezed, pop it in gear and give it a rock/push :)
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Would you recommend turning it over by hand first?
If you concerned about the engine being siezed, pop it in gear and give it a rock/push :)
Or take a breaker bar to the cam pully bolt :smiley:
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Tut tut, you're not supposed to turn the engine over via the cam pulley - you can cause the belt to snap/skip a tooth. Always turn the engine over via the crank itself (19mm IIRC).
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Tut tut, you're not supposed to turn the engine over via the cam pulley - you can cause the belt to snap/skip a tooth. Always turn the engine over via the crank itself (19mm IIRC).
Crank pully was what I was on about but was looking at KR heads and cams on egay at the time. My bad and yes its an 19mm :smiley:
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i have witnessed a mk2 8v, stood for 10 years. working battery robbed from a mates mk2 , plugged it in checked oil level, gallon of unleaded and badda boom, started on the button first time! Personally before driving it i'd do the cooling system, drain it, refill with the correct ratio of water / coolant 50/50. Then run it up to temperature. Soon as it hits 90 degrees C switch it off then change the oil and filter. I'd also maybe pull the sump off and check the oil pump filter isnt full of conjeeled sh!te. Engine flush and injector cleaner is a good shout and basicly just service it to buggery. It's worth getting a local specialist to look over it for mot. A well trained eye can spot things that others will miss and save you serious wonga! Don't go by the advert go by personal recomendation. if your in cornwall i can recomend ya somebody! Good luck!
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Engine flush is not a good idea for older engines. The carbon deposits and crud it removes could foul up the oilways etc..
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Engine flush is not a good idea for older engines. The carbon deposits and crud it removes could foul up the oilways etc..
I've also heard this too...
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Engine flush is not a good idea for older engines. The carbon deposits and crud it removes could foul up the oilways etc..
I have had a bad experience of this and would agree. £700 that engine flush cost
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Engine flush is not a good idea for older engines. The carbon deposits and crud it removes could foul up the oilways etc..
More than that it'll clean all the shyte off the seals which is what's stopped them leaking.
Great way of causing oil leaks.
If it's got oil, if it hasn't been rebuilt, then it should be primed and there's no reason to turn it over by hand.
With the plugs out there won't be the pressure on the bearings, either - another reason to spin it over with no plugs until it's up to pressure.
Roverdose has outlined what would probably happen in a lot of situations - see if the sucker'll start, then get into fluid changes.
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thanks for the quick replies and advice guys, much appreciated.
some points I picked up on from your advice...............................................
the original battery packed in a good few years ago ( lack of use ) and I'll need to buy a new one now anyway.
the handbrake has been left off, but I think the calipers, especially the rear may need some attention due to the time being unused ?
changing the fluids is a good idea, do you think I should change the oil before trying to start it ? bearing in mind the oil is over 12 years old ?
what about the petrol in the tank ? will it still be ok ? should I drain it first and refill with new ?
to be honest I get annoyed with myself for not running her for so long, but I've been otherwise occupied to cut a long story short !!
again your advice and comments very much appreciated
Iain
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some points I picked up on from your advice...............................................
the original battery packed in a good few years ago ( lack of use ) and I'll need to buy a new one now anyway. Get a Good Bosch Silver Line One!!
the handbrake has been left off, but I think the calipers, especially the rear may need some attention due to the time being unused ? They Will & I would guess The HB Cable will need replacing...
changing the fluids is a good idea, do you think I should change the oil before trying to start it ? bearing in mind the oil is over 12 years old ? Check the dip stick 1st and see what it looks like...If its still black and runny should be ok if the level is low top up with fresh stuff
what about the petrol in the tank ? will it still be ok ? should I drain it first and refill with new ? I would stick 5 Ltr of new Super Unleaded in her to freshen it up as it can go off...
to be honest I get annoyed with myself for not running her for so long, but I've been otherwise occupied to cut a long story short !! Know the feeling - at least you have kept her!!
HTH
:wink:
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Its worth changing the fuel filter as you can potentially clog up fuel lines with sedament from the fuel filter!
Plus I would defo new ionised water and anti freeze just to help the water pump!
Every belt as they would have dried up by now aswell in the mix!
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Drain the fuel tank, replace the filter then put some fresh fuel in it.
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thanks guys, quite a wee bit to do before firing her up ??
Iain
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It all depends how much care/time/money you want to invest.
You could be brutal and strap on a fresh battery and start churning the engine to see if it starts... :evil:
or Do some or all of the above mentioned to give it a better chance.
If it were me i might do the following in preperation for a first start, before then changing all fluids etc:
I like the idea of rocking the car back and forth in gear to ensure nothing is seized (in 5th gear).
Then Remove the top part of the cam belt cover that is clipped in place and check the condition of the cam belt, get hold of it and give it a wee tug to see that its not totally wasted. i.e. looking cracked and ready to break
Changeing the fuel filter isnt too diffucult- you'll need new hose clips and a filter. This would be a good idea coupled with draining/siphoning off as much of the old fuel as possible and adding a couple of fresh gallons of super unleaded. Then turn the ignition on and off a few times to run the fuel pump to get fuel into the system (without turning the starter). 12yr old fuel wont be the best for a first attempt at starting.
check the oil level, top up to the max if its below- but regardless, add a bit of oil into the filler cap just so that there is some oil at the top of the engine prior to starting to turn it.
then remove all the spark plugs and crank the engine a bit before trying it with the plugs in. new plugs should be on your shopping list, and would help the first start.
Then start cranking in say five second bursts, with a break in between of 10-20sec's so as not to overheat the starter motor. it may take a bit of this to get fuel worked through.
If it does not fire at all in a few minutes, its trouble shooting time.
Good luck. When are you planning to try it?
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thanks Rob, I'll probably leave it to the better weather so that I can bring her out of the garage and have more room to work on her.
Iain
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Good stuff, warmer weather will help presuade it. do let us know how you get on- pics are always good/appreciated!
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thanks for the quick replies and advice guys, much appreciated.
some points I picked up on from your advice...............................................
the original battery packed in a good few years ago ( lack of use ) and I'll need to buy a new one now anyway.
the handbrake has been left off, but I think the calipers, especially the rear may need some attention due to the time being unused ?
changing the fluids is a good idea, do you think I should change the oil before trying to start it ? bearing in mind the oil is over 12 years old ?
what about the petrol in the tank ? will it still be ok ? should I drain it first and refill with new ?
to be honest I get annoyed with myself for not running her for so long, but I've been otherwise occupied to cut a long story short !!
again your advice and comments very much appreciated
Iain
I would change the timming belt m8 as it has been in the same position for all they years plus rubber perishes over time you dont want it snaping and bending valves
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thanks again guys, will keep you updated
Iain