GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Roverdose on 31 January 2012, 16:50
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Im at my wits end!
The car:
1984 Mk2 golf, 5 door, burgandy on a B-Plate
1300, 8v, Pierburg carb, points and condenser disributor type.
The problem:
I've done a full service and cam belt, had the car running beautifully, ran smooth and quiet with no rattles, took it for a drive and it was lovely, went to start it 6 hours later and it'll turn over and start, but the second you let go of the key it cuts out. i know what your thinking ignition switch right? Bought a new one, no change, i got a new coil, no change, i changed a fuel pump relay and it eventually did start and ran a bit doggy, very low revs then cut out and wouldn't start again. I'm at a loss now. Battery and alternator are a possibility as the car only cut out once i removed the jump leads. Any opinions would be magic as alternators are expensive and i'm at my wits end, this has been going on now since october and my cheap reliable runabout has become a nightmare! HEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLP!
cheers, ian
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Have you tried a multimeter to make sure the voltage from the alt & battery are at the level they should be?
Also have you made sure the preheater pipe is in place as that affected my lads driver with peirsburg...
also make sure the coolant level is topped up as again when his water pump was knacked it ran like a b!tch.... something to do with the heat from the pipes switches something in the piers unit!!
Don't know if any of these are related but at least they are free to check!!
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Might also be worth checking the cam timing.
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Have you tried a multimeter to make sure the voltage from the alt & battery are at the level they should be?
Also have you made sure the preheater pipe is in place as that affected my lads driver with peirsburg...
also make sure the coolant level is topped up as again when his water pump was knacked it ran like a b!tch.... something to do with the heat from the pipes switches something in the piers unit!!
Don't know if any of these are related but at least they are free to check!!
Voltmeter reads 14v from alternator but battery does want replacing. i have tried a new battery off my mates mk2 but no change, the carb is deffinatly sound. It's probably worth mentioning that every time i try and start it, it fires and runs, as long as i keep the starter turning over, it idles perfectly and revs with no hessitation smoothly. You get to the point where you think you can let go of the key as theres no way it can just stop running but it does every time, i Have installed a brand new switch and tried an entirely different key and barrell. Also hot wired it to no joy.
Gay! :angry:
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oh and cam timing. i checked it and had someone else check it. everything is spot on!
thanks for the replies! :wink:
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have you read this - http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0
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Does it start if you turn the electrics on then jump the soleniod on the starter motor from the battery?
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not tried that one yet! something for me to do tomorrow.
cheers for the link, will have a further check around!
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MMMMM me tinks the starter motor needs a closer inspection it feeds a open circuit to the whole coil ignition system!
Take off all connectors on the starter trace all wires inspect the wires clean any oxidised contacts every where!
Get a multimeter check each cable for voltage whilst a mate cranks her over to establish where its feeding a positive to the electrical system and check after it dies then you at least know where and what cable should be open after cranking as I suspect a open circuit feed is being cut right after you crank?
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long time since ive worked on one of these. but with points based ignition there is a thing called a ballast resistor sometimes
during normal running the coil is powerd via the ballast resistor, unde crancking the coil is powerd usally from a feed off the starter selonoid, if the ballast resitor fails as soon as you stop crancking the enigne the sparks stop.
worth checking if it has one, if it has to test it just short the bugger out and see if it runs. dont leave it shorted out as the coil will fail quickly
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long time ive worked on one of these. but with points based ignition there is a thing called a ballast resistor sometimes
during normal running the coil is powerd via the ballast resistor, unde crancking the coil is powerd usally from a feed off the starter selonoid, if the ballast resitor fails as soon as you stop crancking the enigne the sparks stop.
worth checking if it has one, if it has to test it just short the bugger out and see if it runs. dont leave it shorted out as the coil will fail quickly
Better put than me Danny Frankinstarter!
Ps tenners mine :laugh:
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^^ I think we have a £10 winner (danny p).
I wonder what relay you really changed when you thought you were changing the fuel pump relay? I thought all the carb cars had a mechanical fuel pump.
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Off Topic - Roverdose, I have just sent you an e-mail to the address listed on your profile (your forum inbox is full). If you don't use that address any more please PM me a new on. I would appreciate a response.
Cheers,
Harvs
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long time since ive worked on one of these. but with points based ignition there is a thing called a ballast resistor sometimes
during normal running the coil is powerd via the ballast resistor, unde crancking the coil is powerd usally from a feed off the starter selonoid, if the ballast resitor fails as soon as you stop crancking the enigne the sparks stop.
worth checking if it has one, if it has to test it just short the bugger out and see if it runs. dont leave it shorted out as the coil will fail quickly
Don't want to sound like an idiot but any idea where id find the ballast resistor. Fusebox im guessing?
i only said fuel pump relay as i cant remember which one it was, it clicks when the ignition is on. a specialist told me to give it a try, i cant remember what it was called but it began with an X. i'd never heard of it, ordered it from vw and they knew what i was on about. :embarassed:
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I imagine the ballast resistor is on the coil. As for the relay you changed it kills the none esential electrics when you start the car.
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changed the coil, no joy :cry:
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There should be a white/lilac thin wire going to terminal 15 of the coil (also a thicker black one on there).
With ignition on (but not cranking the starter), measure the voltage between coil terminal 15 and battery negative, if it's zero, there's your problem. The Haynes manual shows the ballast resistor in series with this wire, but various net references suggest that this white/lilac wire 'is' the ballast resistance, maybe by virtue of its thinness, maybe because it's not plain old copper, maybe a bit of both.
Anyway, if there's no volts at the coil end of this wire trace it back to the fusebox looking for a break. Mend/replace as required.
If you find an actual resistor somewhere along this wire, test that it has a small resistance.
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a good trick to try is cut the wire back about 50mm and put a new crimp on, every often if i wire fails its very close to the connection or crimp at the end
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a good trick to try is cut the wire back about 50mm and put a new crimp on, every often if i wire fails its very close to the connection or crimp at the end
There should be a white/lilac thin wire going to terminal 15 of the coil (also a thicker black one on there).
With ignition on (but not cranking the starter), measure the voltage between coil terminal 15 and battery negative, if it's zero, there's your problem. The Haynes manual shows the ballast resistor in series with this wire, but various net references suggest that this white/lilac wire 'is' the ballast resistance, maybe by virtue of its thinness, maybe because it's not plain old copper, maybe a bit of both.
Anyway, if there's no volts at the coil end of this wire trace it back to the fusebox looking for a break. Mend/replace as required.
If you find an actual resistor somewhere along this wire, test that it has a small resistance.
This wire?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Roverload/DSCF0466.jpg)
i hope so as i found that the wire was a tiny bit singed either side of the blue connecter so...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Roverload/DSCF0468.jpg)
cant start it yet till my neighbour wakes up to move her car so i can get the leads of life on her! Can't blame her, she just had 5lb twins! :sick:
on the relay side. i swapped this relay...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Roverload/DSCF0472.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Roverload/DSCF0473.jpg)
for this one, new from vag
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Roverload/DSCF0470.jpg)
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you see that scotch lock there, you likely see your problem. cut the fecker out solder and heat shrink over. ( or better still order some pins for the FB plug and reinstall wire slightly sorter with new pin.
i was thinking triming back wire under bonnet as they are more likely to fail there. but on spotting a scotch lock anywhere it instantly becomes chief suspect they are infenal fecking things
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i did cut it out and put in a spade conector with heat shrink. cant try n start it yet though as still frozen solid!
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Finally pulled my finger outta my ass and regretfully this problem still persists. Doesnt even try to fire. I'm am completely spent now. Can't think what it could possibly be.