GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: golfyste on 16 January 2012, 21:54
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Hi ok so I have been having problems with my boost for a whole now and have tried everything Ivan think of but changing the turbo.
Basically when I accelerate the boost shoots to 11psi then drops to 9 which I think is low as the car has been mapped (I think).
But that's not the only problem, sometimes when I puj the accelerator te boost o ly goes up to like 3psi and it takes a few releases and presses of the throttle I get te boost up and something it just won't boost up :(
Well I har done pressure test with no significant leaks apart what escapes into the sump, I also replaced the n75 and I the changed the actuator spring and found it had a green one so I replaced with a yellow. This made it feel better but it still sometimes sticks at like 3 psi
The only others thing I can think of is the waste gate on the turbo not sitting properly.
I am going for a k04-001 anyway and just got a this intercooler but before I get it ready and go for a map I want to make sure it is running right.
Any suggestions and help is much appreciated
Cheers
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yeah, post in the right section :laugh:
PS, moving it now :wink:
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Yeah just notice that haha sorry :tongue:
Opens up the new topic page earlier and never checked I was in te right section haha
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Ok So now we are in the right section :grin:
Any help?
Cheers
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Engine code? Done any logs?
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It aum, bono don't have vagcom and I wouldn't know where to start, I have a normal engine code reader but I dunno iow good it is. But that says the only thing but my engine light is the secondary air injection system.
Should i purchase a vagcom lead?
As I have looked but know idea which one to buy.
Cheers
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Not sure if the SAI system can leak vacuum/boost? Either way you need to get that sorted first :smiley:
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How could I do that as the whole secondary air injection system has been removed.
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does the N112 valve need a resistor fitting in place?
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Hmmm, Usually the resistor is to stop the fault code, but im not sure whether it would have an effect on the running of the engine.
DId you try with a NEW N75 valve?
Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if this changes how the engine reacts?
I presume you have a Forge Actuator.....How have you got this setup in terms of preload? Running a yellow spring now yeah?
Any misfires or is the low boost continuous across the rev range.
You are uncertain as to whether its been mapped?
Where are you taking your boost reading from?
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There is a rissistor fitted to some wires around where the sai is supposed to be but dunno where the n112 is??
Hmmm, Usually the resistor is to stop the fault code, but im not sure whether it would have an effect on the running of the engine.
DId you try with a NEW N75 valve?
Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if this changes how the engine reacts?
I presume you have a Forge Actuator.....How have you got this setup in terms of preload? Running a yellow spring now yeah?
Any misfires or is the low boost continuous across the rev range.
You are uncertain as to whether its been mapped?
Where are you taking your boost reading from?
Yeah put a new brand new n75 in.
Yeah tried the unplugging the maf and doesn't do anything
And yes I have the forge with yellow spring and have 3 full turns of preload
And no the are no misfires although the exhaust sometimes burbles and pops a little when releasing off the accelerator
And yes as I didn't map it myself although it does seem to quick to e 150hp
My boost gauge is tee'd into the fpr pipe.
Cheers guys
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I yeah and the low boost is all the way across the range but if I let off wait a sec and then power on it sometimes goes back to 10 ( which I still think is low especially if it's mapped)
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I reckon you're in limp mode...
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I reckon you're in limp mode...
Really?
Doesn't limp mode reset when you turn it off?
Another thing don't know it was because of the cold or not but my traction control light wouldn't turn off and then did after turnin it off and on again????
I thought limp mode made it really slow as it isn't that bad really still keep with beakers etc just doesn't feel like 200ish horses
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hmmm, maybe something limiting it for safety then...
I still think the EML will be the first thing to sort out though
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doesn't really seem like a leak to me, a problem with the throttle body perhaps? to be honest you're shooting in the dark without some decent diagnostics/data logging.
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hmmm, maybe something limiting it for safety then...
I still think the EML will be the first thing to sort out though
Well it's says its the sai but when I reset it it doesn't perform any different.
Yeah I thought that and cleaned it but no different. :sad:
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Any tips On buyin a vagcom lead?
Cheers
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Any tips On buyin a vagcom lead?
Cheers
I have and can recommend one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Fault-Code-reader-/160717750851?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256b864243
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Any tips On buyin a vagcom lead?
Cheers
I have and can recommend one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Fault-Code-reader-/160717750851?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256b864243
Is that just a engine code reader then? Or can you do other stuff?
Cheers
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Any tips On buyin a vagcom lead?
Cheers
I have and can recommend one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Fault-Code-reader-/160717750851?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256b864243
Is that just a engine code reader then? Or can you do other stuff?
Cheers
Also does ABS, Airbags/srs and gearboxes, mine has been a great purchase, I have helped lots of people out with it.
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Any tips On buyin a vagcom lead?
Cheers
I have and can recommend one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Fault-Code-reader-/160717750851?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256b864243
Is that just a engine code reader then? Or can you do other stuff?
Cheers
Also does ABS, Airbags/srs and gearboxes, mine has been a great purchase, I have helped lots of people out with it.
Well I have a engine code reader bit it only comes up with the sai and when I clear it the light goes out, I just though vagcom would be good as you can do other things with it can't you?
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Well I have a engine code reader bit it only comes up with the sai and when I clear it the light goes out, I just though vagcom would be good as you can do other things with it can't you?
Yes lots more :smiley:
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But not with that you posted a link to?
Is it best to get a lead and disk?
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But not with that you posted a link to?
Is it best to get a lead and disk?
Vagcom will do more than the ebay reader but it does enough, however vagcom is handy for logging problems etc.
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But not with that you posted a link to?
Is it best to get a lead and disk?
Vagcom will do more than the ebay reader but it does enough, however vagcom is handy for logging problems etc.
Ok cool, may look at gettin a lead and disc, then I gotta learn how to use it :laugh:
What the min I'm gonna pay for a lead just don't wanna get a crappy Chinese one ha
Cheers mate
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so im gonna order a ebay lead and driver disc, i dont go home untill the 27th so will have to wait until then to do the logs,
so what are we thinking it could be?
the sai leaking?
a resistor missing somewhere?
something electrically limiting it? - what could cause this?
cheers for any help.
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Bump.
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Sooo ... Home for the weekend and my vagcom eBay cable and disc had arrived so I set about scanning the car and found these codes ....
17705 - p1297 pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve
16795 - p0411 which I found is the secondary air injection
17704 - p1296 which I beleive is coolant mapping?
I did some research and found my n249 bypass needed a resistor so I have cleared the codes and put it in but any idea how to solve the other issues?
I also read the sai plug needs a resistor so will get one and do that tomorrow.
And idea how I could solve the coolant mapping problem or diagnose it as I can do measuring blocks now :smiley:
Also got a big delivery from the postman including this intercooler :) so may do thr tommorrow.
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Have you cleared them and ran the car before scanning?
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Not before I scanned but I have cleared them, put in that resistor and h e driven to my gf's and back which is about 14kile round trip and engine light hasn't come back on but normally takes abit longer then that anyways.
Will scan again tomorrow tho
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Could be off something before your issue. Best way is to clear, and see what comes back after few days.
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ok so i cleared the codes and then drove back up to where im staying in middlesbrough on sunday. i scanned it again today and there were no codes :smiley: but...... im still having problems. alot of the time when i change up the boost wont rise above 3psi and then when i do 3rd gears runs as i get to the higher rpm the boost drops from 8-10 psi to about 3-4psi :huh:
still confused so i did a few logs. (apologise in advance as i couldnt find anywhere up here where i could hit redline and i have never done it before so may be a little messy.
(http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa433/golfyste/Untitled2-2.jpg)
(http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa433/golfyste/Untitled-2.jpg)
could anyone have a glance over them for me, i have had a look but sort of confuses me haha
cheers for any help
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MAF is showing good airflow....170-180bhp from rough calculations.
Can you do a pull of the duty cycle?
Whats your engine code?
Only thing that looks a bit suspect is lambda with the low readings. I dont understand them so cant advise there im afriad.
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MAF is showing good airflow....170-180bhp from rough calculations.
Can you do a pull of the duty cycle?
Whats your engine code?
Only thing that looks a bit suspect is lambda with the low readings. I dont understand them so cant advise there im afriad.
ok mate cheers think i may buy a new maf for when i get a map just in case, can always return it if i dont remove it from the packaging :grin:
dont wanna sound dumb.....but how would i do that? haha
and its a Aum
is there any other blocks i should log??
cheers chris
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Block 114 is the duty cycle
Block 115 is the boost pressure (specified vs actual)
blcok 002 MAF aswell
Log those :)
3rd gear, low revs to redline and let off....continuous full throttle.
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ok mate will try get it done tomorrow, need to find a new stretch of road couldnt get redline earlier.
its the boost thing that confuses me the most how it just seems to pull then just suddenly drops and how it will be boost at 10 in second then you change up and nothing ha startin to piss me off a little.
plus it only boost to ten but im sure its been mapped so dunni if its just a rubbish map.
cheers mate
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Could be dodgy gauge.....ive had 2....
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Could be dodgy gauge.....ive had 2....
hmmm didnt think about that might get it in work tomorrow and check it haha
but i think it may just be low as at like 14+psi should be closer to 200 and doesnt feel it
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If you remove the SAI you need 3 resistors fitting...
one where the huge heavy air pump was that you removed
and one on each of the set of wires for the N249 and N112 I think they are that were bolted onto the underside of the manifold plate that held the SAI piping
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If you remove the SAI you need 3 resistors fitting...
one where the huge heavy air pump was that you removed
and one on each of the set of wires for the N249 and N112 I think they are that were bolted onto the underside of the manifold plate that held the SAI piping
I have done the resistors on the n249 and n112 but I just need to get another one for the sai plug, although Its a little bit of a throw in the dark as the person who owned the car before me removed it burning think I know which plug not is ha
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If you struggle then let me know and Ill try and get a pic of mine, you'll have to be on the ground under the valance to see the one you need to get to, the wires are really thick so you should be able to see them, chances are the block is still attached so lop that off and connect your resistor, then let us know how you get on
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Block 114 is the duty cycle
Block 115 is the boost pressure (specified vs actual)
blcok 002 MAF aswell
Log those :)
3rd gear, low revs to redline and let off....continuous full throttle.
ok just realised i cant measure above block 25 as i dont have the paid for version of vcds :undecided:
so dunno what to do next ha
If you struggle then let me know and Ill try and get a pic of mine, you'll have to be on the ground under the valance to see the one you need to get to, the wires are really thick so you should be able to see them, chances are the block is still attached so lop that off and connect your resistor, then let us know how you get on
ok so i had a look and found a random plug.....but there is also another two wires coming away from it??
would this be the sai plug....
(http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa433/golfyste/abad819a.jpg)
(http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa433/golfyste/1d836a70.jpg)
cheers