GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 TDI => Topic started by: mrapoc on 05 January 2012, 21:32
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Hello!
The suspect is a 1.9 gttdi AJM 115 @ 160k on the clock.
What is the issue?
- Struggling to get any higher than 40mpg without really driving slow!
- Really rough cold starts
What have I done so far?
- Turbo cleaned out and actuator replaced due to rust/limp mode - car doesn't go into limp anymore!
- Changed to genuine MAF from crap aftermarket one - Pulls a lot nicer!
- Cleaned the EGR - Not noticeable yet, however something makes it shudder at 2k revs
- Changed 3 out of 4 glow plugs...1 is kinda stuck in there...the "bolt" has come loose...leaving it be for now - car still starts crap (cold)
- No errors show on my free version of vcds lite. Might be able to get a vcds lite license if it helps?
- Temperature gets to 90 in a respectable amount of time and stays there
- Oil, Oil filter, Air filter, Fuel filter was changed about 4-5 months ago
- Changed most of the vacuum lines from the frayed material to new pipes - not sure if the line going to turbo is 3mm or 4mm
Any help or suggestions would be very gratefully accepted.
Its a lovely car but the main issue is only getting 100 miles to £20-£25 and thats driving steadily!
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Sounds like a boost/ vacuum leak.
Check all connectors around the system and vacuum pipes.
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Cheers mate. I have changed 3/4 of the vacuum pipes already. Not sure if the turbo should have a 3mm pipe or 4mm pipe going to it. So i havent done that yet.
Would it be an idea to ask a local garage to smoke test it? How much should I expect this to cost. Don't want this car to be any more of a money eating bottomless pit!
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Drove up the m54 today. Stuck to 70mph all the way and managed to get 45mpg. Surely I can/should be getting more?
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I'm getting a flat spot/shuddering at about 2k revs now too :sick:
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Cleaned the intercooler and noticed the MAP sensor has been messed with before...well. It had silicon sealant all over it. Also one of the screws looks badly rounded..If its anything to go by my MAF (non genuine) could this possibly be causing bad mpg? Worth prying off all the silicon and tapping the screw out to check?
I've changed the thermostat and temp sender (to a green one) anyway :)
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map sensor could be a problem.
on a past car that was causing me loss of power at about 2000 revs
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map sensor could be a problem.
on a past car that was causing me loss of power at about 2000 revs
+1
I cleaned mine and my flat spot, which was around 2500, disappeared. :smiley: This will take an hour tops, real easy fix if this is your issue.
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Cool.
I've changed my MAF already and this helped.
Now I am experiencing loss of power at 2k/mpg issues too so i will check out my MAP too if this may be the case :)
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when ws it last serviced fella? how long have you had the car aswell? could be a timing issur
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Hey.
I serviced it about 5 months ago. Havent had decent mpg since owning it tbh. I have a feeling that the map on the intercooler/boost leak may be what im looking for...
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Right an update
Changed the MAP sensor on the intercooler (thrust) and PSI adjusted my actuator as it was overboosting (still is tho..)
Also had it mapped to see if it was a bad map. Hard to say if its any better.
Only thing I can think of now is if the manifold is blocked up (would a clogged manifold really fook up mpg?)
Also maybe something more serious like loss of compression, i dunno.
The way i describe it is, once i get to a speed like 70, i should be able to hold that speed, but it starts falling in speed once i get a decent mpg. To hold it I have to accelerate back up, hence losing the mpg
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Wow, very strange symptoms...Really hope you get it sorted mate. Scanned it for any codes? Perhaps do some date logging while running the car, see what reading your getting on all variables? :sad:
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If your car is struggling to maintain 70 without giving a little extra then maybe you have a sticky caliper?
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Wheel seemed to spin quite freely. But yeh it is almost like it needs that extra acceleration as it won't just hold it there.
No faults over than when i get it to overboost (full throttle)
MAF is ok. Boost is ok (apart from full throttle). Best way to check for sticky caliper?
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Check all four wheels, get it in air, push brake then spin a wheel, should roll fairly easy and not have much resistance and roll to a steady stop not too suddenly. Check all wheels, as could also be sticking handshake issue.
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Hi Im not that clued up on engines etc but I thought I would mention my fault that I had as at least you could check it.My own car not to long ago had issues where it was crap on mpg and losing power and eventually as things got worse the car would cut out completly.I changed all sorts of things and we could not find the problem and at one point I just felt like setting fire to it :grin: Anyway by sheer chance when it was in the garage a vw tech was also there picking up a car and asked what the problem was we explained and he went straight to the back seat had a look under at the fuel pump and explained that the in and out on the pump was the wrong way round and the car was being fed fuel only through the drip rail is it something like that.Apparantly its a very common fault on mk4 golfs and it happens why its being built in the factory whats mad really is that the cars can run perfect for years but then at random start to play up.Could well have nothing to do with your fault but I just thought its worth a mention,stick with it you will get to it in the end :wink:
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Fuel pump is correct but cheers mate :)
I have tried wheels but ill try again after pressing brake pedal
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Blocked cat or timing maybe :laugh: :angry:
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is your EGR stuck open?
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How would I find out?
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pull pipe to intercooler off and have a look inside. The valve should open when car is idleing and close when revving