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General => General discussion => Topic started by: AudiA8Quattro on 24 December 2011, 00:17
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My dad's clutch is slipping :sick:
Car is 2001 (8E) A4 Quattro Sport 1.8T 150bhp.
Has anyone done this job? can it be done at home without any lifting equipment?
Also i see Euro Car Parts do a solid flywheel conversion, has anyone fitted one? are they any good?
Cheers.
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maybe with a jack with a large platform on it, I bet the box is seriously heavy!
dunno about the flywheel, they are supposed to be a bad idea on the diesels but might be a good idea on the petrols?
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Ive seen one being struggled out but that was on a 2 poster so... :undecided:
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i know DannyP's done A4/Passat/A6 clutch changes and nearly been flattened by the gearbox.
I've made up cradles to go on jacks to hold gearboxes before now - helps a lot, especially if you're working on the floor.
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Thanks for the replies.
I was thinking of making up something for jack to support the box, problem is, i'll probably be working alone so i'm not keen.
I've done a few clutches, but all have been on golfs..
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beware of that box, some of them are seriously f**king heavy.
as it's a 1.8 T and quattro i would very tempted to do the job backwards, leave the gearbox exactly where it is and take the engine out.
theres more stuff to undo but it comes undone easyer, nice big hole to lift it out of and that way you get to drop the sump and clean the oil pickup at the same time for littel extra effort.
the big twerp with a quattro boxes is they are heavy and awkward and difficult to get lifting kit on. so you have to push them up into place, on your own thats not going to happen TBH unless you have a ramp and a gearbox lift as your arms are just crap at lifting stuff up off the floor beside you when your lead on your back.
if you have the box sat on your chest you can lift them, but it's risky, last time i did that i sliped and the box came down on me and pinned my arms i was stuck for quite a while that was a big auto box the 1.8T box won't be that heavy.
it a 2 person job to relocate the box id say or youd do it with one the other way round
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singelmass flywheel on petrol go for it :smiley:
on diesle not such a good idea
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Thanks Danny.
Its a manual box, although its a quattro, its doesn't look as big as the auto box on my A8.
I did consider doing it in reverse, problem being i haven't bought a hoist yet :rolleyes:
What do you think of this? it looks good to me
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-53095-150Kg-Floor-Transmission-Jack-/280650685461?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item4158159c15
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Bloody hell - that's nearly £100!
For another £30 I'd pick up a new engine hoist first. You'll use it WAY more.
Plus you can replicate that transmission jack with a normal trolley jack and a ratchet strap.
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that transmition jack looks crap TBH, buy an engine crane instead far more usefull.
my transmition jack is just a couple of bits of box section that get bolted welded to the trolly jack on demand
just sugesting takeing the engine out to do it as the 1.8T's come out easy compared to some of the engines.
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As mentioned, lots to remove, heavy and really could do with using a ramp.
I've just done mine and was going to attempt at home but after reading up, I enlisted the help (and lift) of my bro at his garage and I was so glad I did.
Having to remove so much under the car it does make it a physically easier job to pull the motor out if you can't get it anywhere with a lift etc.
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Thanks for the advice guys.
The problem for me is time, i used to do all my car work on sundays, now i'm heavily involved in a karate fight club i don't have time.
I would prefer to just drop out the box if possible, but i will look at other options, i might even give it to our company mechanic depending on price.
But i suppose since i'm not paying, maybe i should use this as an opportunity for some free tools :evil:
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Going to be a lot easier on a ramp Corin :smiley:
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Wayne i think you're probably right. I'm servicing it on thursday so i'll look to see how much clearance i need.
The good thing about the gearbox jack is the minimum level is low, so ideal for doing the job at home.
I don't really fancy taking out the engine, there isn't actually that much connected to the box, its just a case of clearance and something to take the weight. I could enlist the help of my brother, he is strong, but totally f**king useless at anything mechanical :laugh:
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Update on this. I've just taken it for a decent drive.
I can pull the car in 5th gear without the clutch slipping from standstill, it pulls away easily in 2nd from still.
It goes fine full throttle 1st and 2nd, but if i go into 3rd at low revs and open up full throttle, the revs increase quickly without any engine speed increase.
The question now is , could it be a problem with the clutch not releasing rather than slipping? could it be a problem with the hydraulic system instead?
Cheers.
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the revs increase quickly without any engine speed increase.
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incresed revs without speed increse is clutch slip, it's only slipping when the boost comes in as thats where the torque is made
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the revs increase quickly without any engine speed increase.
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incresed revs without speed increse is clutch slip, it's only slipping when the boost comes in as thats where the torque is made
Oh f**k yeah i just read that :laugh:
I meant the revs increase quickly but the car doesn't get any faster, like the gear has gone into neutral.
So you reckon its slipping, could the clutch be sticking on?
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What i'm trying to get at Danny is, could the problem be caused by the clutch hydraulics or would i feel that through the pedal?
Or is it deffo a new clutch kit needed?
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clutch hydralics are pritty reliable and generaly cause the opposite of whats happening with yours, they normaly fail to disengadge drive if anything.
i've come across a few cars where corrosion has caused the slave cys to stick but they have ether not returned or leacked flud at an alarming rate, and has only been on cars that have been stored for years witout use
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maybe the ecu limits the torque in 1st and 2nd :huh:
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When I was looking into mine (looked into every option to avoid the inevitable :grin:) . A lot of owners said that the biting point on the A4 was quite high up the pedal, this made some people falsely diagnose a tired clutch but mine was doing the same as yours, would slip when it started boosting in the higher gears.
When we took the old clutch out it was very apparent that it needed to be replaced :shocked:
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Thanks again guys for all the replies.
What i can't get is the car has only done 52k, now audi clutches don't fail after 52k!? :grin:
If either the master or slave cylinder was sticking then surely i would feel it through the pedal?
Also surely the clutch will slip if i try to pull away from standstill in a high gear?
Andy-H, have you got the same car then? 1.8T Quattro Sport?
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At 52k it must have been alot of short journeys, in town which means the clutch gets used alot.
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At 52k it must have been alot of short journeys, in town which means the clutch gets used alot.
still say thats pretty low my old seat leon had 179k with only one clutch change at 165k
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At 52k it must have been alot of short journeys, in town which means the clutch gets used alot.
still say thats pretty low my old seat leon had 179k with only one clutch change at 165k
My Mk4 was on 51k when I bought it and had already eaten 2 clutches :shocked:
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now thats bad they must of been cheap of the cheap clutches or terrible drivers before you lol
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now thats bad they must of been cheap of the cheap clutches or terrible drivers before you lol
Probably both :grin:
The last one was fitted is invoiced as: 'Uprated/modified clutch & flywheel'
So I'm hoping it's now a single mass setup
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Andy-H, have you got the same car then? 1.8T Quattro Sport?
Yep, mine's the same. Mine has done just over 100k, not checked through the history if it was the first one it's had or not. I have since uprated mine while I had it in bits (didn't want to do the job again in a hurry :sad:)
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you can kill a clutch on a quattro without much effort, tow bars are good for killing them as well
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Interesting that, my family have had a few quattros, never had a clutch go so quickly. Infact last 2 were on 170k miles+ still on original clutch.
However we've not used any of the cars for towing.
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all depends how there driven, if you drive them hard off the line you'll wearing clutches as you can pull off much harder without wheelspin but the clutch is getting more grief if it's not that it's ether your unucky and got a crap clutch out the box or someone rests there foot on the pedal
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I'd very much agree if the driver leaves their foot on the pedal with the biting point being so high.
When my old one was on its way out, the slightest touch on the pedal would have it spinning :sad:
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Well my dad is 68, so no boy racer :grin:
He drives everywhere on light throttle, he didn't even know it was slipping :rolleyes:
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Right had a good nose around this morning.
I there is plenty of clearance to move the box out with the car on stands.
The problem i see is accessing the gearbox to engine bolts, particularly the bottom 3 that sit under the subframe.
Anyone? Andy H or Danny?
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I removed the subframe, was the easiest option :sad:
IIRC it's 4x bolts holding it on. You have to be able to move the gearbox enough to get it past the prop etc.
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Thanks mate.
According to ELSA the prop can be tied up out the way, is this a difficult part of the job as in not enough clearance?
The back of the subframe has to be dropped to remove the box, so i take it you dropped the front as well to access the bottom 3 bolts?
Also how many bolts are on the top? access to these looks pretty crap!!
EDIT do you think you can get away with dropping the front of the subframe, or do you need to remove it completely?
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I just took it all off for ease of it BUT I was in a garage with the car on the lift and the gearbox resting on a stand.
The top bolts around the bell housing weren't that bad once I got into it. Just looked a mither before I tried it :smiley: Can't remember how many there were now :undecided: