GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Yohan on 20 December 2011, 09:26
-
Hello,
Car Spec - 1.8T AMK, K04-023, Pipewerx 3" Downpipe c/w 200cell cat, Milltek 2.75" Cat-Back, SFS 3" TIP c/w Jetex Cone, Forge 007, FMIC, 4bar FPR, Samco Vacuum Hoses, Silicone Boost Hoses
I've been doing a lot of reading on these valves and need some feedback from tuners about them.
I had my car R-Tech'd earlier in the year and the map is fantastic, however one day it just lost it's boost spike and max boost.
I boost leak tested it to 25psi and there are NO leaks at all.
My car used to spike 24psi then hold 21/22psi across the range. Now it only makes and holds 19psi across the range.
However!
When I pull the N75 out of the TIP (i.e. the side of the valve that is used for bleeding air in to the tip) and plug the tip, then go for a drive, it makes and holds 22psi across the range.
I don't see how effectively creating a leak would make me more boost?
It's the standard N75 F valve and I'm just wondering if it's broken?
I'm waiting to borrow a friends to test it out.
-
:lipsrsealed:
-
:shocked:
-
I have AMK engine in mine
I have just Got a New N75 from audi dealership, the F is revised now to one that ends in E..
full part number is; 06A 906 283E
Old part number is: 058 906 283F
(Notice the number at the start is now 06 (old F valve is 05)
Cost me about £37 quid
The revision was done recently
-
my brand new F and then the E the dealers replaced it with leaked :angry:
-
Cheers guys.
Are these prone to leaking? Would it show up in a boost leak test?
My system can hold 25psi easy when I tested it.
Tonight I did a throttle body adaptation and then took it for a spin, not too much because it's icy but foot to the floor in 2nd and 3rd only saw a max of 17psi now.
I seem to be gradually loosing more and more boost
-
do the suck test on it, I can't remember which pipes you need to try but you shouldn't be able to suck any air through two of the pipes
-
Any more info on this suck test?
Do I just take the valve off to try this?
-
its the two shorter pipes i think.. the longer one goes into the tip if i remember correctly..
-
Bottom one is boost from charge pipe
Shorter one goes to actuator
Longer one goes to tip
Do I block any when I do this test?
What should I be looking for?
-
no dont block any, you will be looking for leaks :wink: when there is no power to the n75 it is in closed position.
-
At the risk of sounding stupid and creating more innuendo, I suck on the one that goes to the turbo (shorter one) and no air should come through cause the valve is closed?
-
got it wrong, you need to suck the longest pipe on the N75, you shouldn't be able to pull any air through
no more talk about sucking pipes now please :grin:
-
I feel dirty just talking about it...
Will report back soon.
-
I feel dirty just talking about it...
Will report back soon.
:lipsrsealed:
-
Whack a MBC in and adjust accordingly till you hit the desired boost you had before?
-
Right test complete.
Firstly tried to suck air through the longest pipe (TIP side) but couldn't, no air passing through. Also tried to blow air through it and couldn't either.
Out of interest sake I sucked/blew the bottom of the N75 valve (from charge pipe) and had the same result, no air passing either direction.
However, my MAP sensor is another story....
I went to check the plug was in properly and noticed a crack on it and there is a lot of flex on the plug
I took a video so hopefully it shows what I mean.
Could this be the reason I can only make 17psi boost instead of my usual 24psi spike/22psi held across the range?
The car is showing no fault codes.
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/th_MAPSensor.jpg) (http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/?action=view¤t=MAPSensor.mp4)
-
On my spare one here I can blow/sucker through the the smaller pipes but not the TIP pipe
not sure about MAF, surely it would throw up a code?
-
MAP dude (cold side of intercooler) not MAF :) Like you say though I would've expected a code.
Interesting.
I can't blow or suck through the bottom pipe. The one that is connected to the chargepipe.
What does that mean?
-
If map connectors where loose and the connection was lost, it'd store a fault surely, You have had it pressure tested to make sure there's no leaks?
-
Yup, no leaks. Only place air comes out is the oil filler.
Video 4 - Compressor Off @ 25psi
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/th_PumpOffat25psi.jpg) (http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/?action=view¤t=PumpOffat25psi.mp4)
Video 5 - Compressor Off @ 25psi Tester Gauge
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/th_PumpOffat25psiTesterGauge.jpg) (http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/?action=view¤t=PumpOffat25psiTesterGauge.mp4)
Video 6 - Compressor Off @ 25psi Inspection
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/th_PumpOffat25psiInspection.jpg) (http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/YohanVRS/Project%20Bora%20S3/Boost%20Leak%20Testing/?action=view¤t=PumpOffat25psiInspection.mp4)
-
Would a slowly failing MAF cause such issues?
My g/s is down on what it should be as well.
-
Would a slowly failing MAF cause such issues?
My g/s is down on what it should be as well.
It can do, if it's on its way out things will slowly be getting worse, you tried cleaning the contacts on MAF and cleaning the sensor as well?
-
Nope, haven't tackled the MAF yet as it's 2 months old so thought it couldn't be that.
Is cleaning the sensors recommended?
A friend is going to let me borrow his at the weekend so hopefully that will rule the MAF out.
I remember on his LCR though when it went duff it just lost more and more power but never threw a fault code.
-
Reply from Badger5 on Audi Sport
"badger5
you should be able to blow thru the centre (boot in) port of the n75 and it should exit the long (tip) port.
yours sounds blocked which is'nt good.. but this should create uncontrolled boost if when you blow into the ports nothing comes out..? "
-
Can anybody else confirm whether they can blow through the bottom of their N75 valve and feel the air exiting from the TIP port?
-
Can anybody else confirm whether they can blow through the bottom of their N75 valve and feel the air exiting from the TIP port?
I dont really do blow jobs.......
I'll see if I can give it a go tonight as I need to plumb the MBC in for up up up boost.
-
Can anybody else confirm whether they can blow through the bottom of their N75 valve and feel the air exiting from the TIP port?
I dont really do blow jobs.......
I'll see if I can give it a go tonight as I need to plumb the MBC in for up up up boost.
Thanks...you saucy minx :laugh:
-
right I have my N75 here...
long pipe that goes to TIP - can't suck or blow through it
short pipes - can blow suck through these pipes
-
right I have my N75 here...
long pipe that goes to TIP - can't suck or blow through it
short pipes - can blow suck through these pipes
Same result, I can blow and suck through both short pipes, but nothing through long one. When you blow through either short ones it blows out the other short one.
-
right I have my N75 here...
long pipe that goes to TIP - can't suck or blow through it
short pipes - can blow suck through these pipes
Same result, I can blow and suck through both short pipes, but nothing through long one. When you blow through either short ones it blows out the other short one.
sweet, I thought I was goin crazy :laugh:
-
right I have my N75 here...
long pipe that goes to TIP - can't suck or blow through it
short pipes - can blow suck through these pipes
Same result, I can blow and suck through both short pipes, but nothing through long one. When you blow through either short ones it blows out the other short one.
sweet, I thought I was goin crazy :laugh:
Well I just also attempted to change a headlight bulb on a KA, I got as far as the waterproof cover and said F*ck this! I have now informed the misses not to drive through any deap puddles :grin: She's not please. I thought the headlight bulbs on the golf where bad, on the KA they where twice as bad.
Good news is, MBC is fitted, yet to test :)
-
did you plumb it in with the N75 or in place of mate?
-
Theres several way's of doing it. Spoke to Nick recently.
1) You can replace the n75 with mbc.
2) You can link it in series from the charge pipe to control the max boost.
3) You can link it in parallel to control the spike.
I went for the second option as shown here:
(http://www.boostvalve.com/images/1.8T_bv.jpg)
Third option is like so:
(http://www.boostvalve.com/images/1.8T_n75_bv.jpg)
Just need a new boost gauge, my digital one that runs of a sensor is sh!te, I don't mind a psi or two out in accuracy, but this thing thinks i'm spiking at 28psi on a k03 and when stationary and off it sometimes assumes I'm doing 10psi. I'm on my 2nd digital sensor as well that the vendor sent free of charge :angry:
Reference: http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html
-
a nice effort, been looking for diagrams to see how it should be plumbed in, that helps loads :wink:
I think mine will be done the same as the 3rd option once I have the map tweaked for VR6 MAF etc
-
What MBC you buy, i need to do option 3 before something goes bang i think :grin:
-
I'm cranking mine up to 22psi hopefully, I was discussing it with Nick, just need to crank the actuator up a tad :) Should gain some torque which is what I'm after.
Here's the MBC I got:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANUAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-DIESEL-TURBO-TDI-CDI-TCDI-TD-/400264601667?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d31a12043
never used the T piece in accordance to the guide above, however T piece is handy for the third setup :)
Otherwise take your pick and colour
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Vehicle-Parts-Accessories-/131090/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A5698&rt=nc&_nkw=manual+boost+controller&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1
Also any idea which way I need to turn the actuator to increase the clamp and easiest way to access it?
-
Cheers :afro:
Going to try and hold mine at 18psi, my MAF max's out and drops down to 12ish psi after about 4k rpm, wonder if this will stop it? Peaks at 22psi atm.
-
Eventually it will tail off as the turbo runs out of puff, I just need a new cheap boost gauge that works with no fancy sensor crack, even if its a psi or two inaccurate as 10psi with and engine off is not a good boost gauge :grin: :grin: :grin:
-
Thanks for all your help guys, I tried an N75F from my friends AUM last night and I can make over 20psi boost again :D Would seem that my valve is just slowly failing.
Garrett did a nice £30 mechanical boost gauge that I had fitted in my Fabia once upon a time.
-
Thanks for all your help guys, I tried an N75F from my friends AUM last night and I can make over 20psi boost again :D Would seem that my valve is just slowly failing.
Garrett did a nice £30 mechanical boost gauge that I had fitted in my Fabia once upon a time.
Care for a linky linky
-
Here is the gauge but I got it cheaper from somewhere else, unless of course the price has just gone up.
http://www.gb-ent.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=134&category_id=45&manufacturer_id=0&vmcchk=1&Itemid=26
I'll try and find it for you.
-
Eventually it will tail off as the turbo runs out of puff, I just need a new cheap boost gauge that works with no fancy sensor crack, even if its a psi or two inaccurate as 10psi with and engine off is not a good boost gauge :grin: :grin: :grin:
Its definately not that, its like hitting a brick wall while accelerating. Definately the MAF pulling too many g/s..
-
All fixed, replaced my duff N75F with the new N75E and normal service is resumed :D
Thanks all for your help :)
-
:) good news its boosting right again :D