GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: pickles on 13 December 2011, 12:58
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seen this, makes some good reading. http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html
i always assumed the 1.8t doesnt like boost controllers however i halso noticed this littel snippet from http://www.streetracersonline.com/articles/turbo/boostctrl.php
As appealing as an electronic interface may be, one should note that an ECU upgrade will typically conflict with a unit like the G-Reddy. You will have to chose which one you preffer. Mind you most ECU upgrades will come with preconfigured selecatable boost levels. In addition, they will also control all other vital engine parts such as fuel and ignition. However, the problem with boost controllers is that your engine was designed for only so much boost pressure. Altering factory settings will yield a shorter engine life. Furthermore, it will more then likely void your waranty. However, some engines have been tuned down. A prime example would be Volkswagens 1.8 turbo. This 20 valve engine was originally designed for Audi. The only difference is a smaller turbocharger and a different intake system. For this reason, an engine like the volkswagen 1.8T would be an ideal choice to increase boost. None the less, it is still important to realize that overall durability will be compromised
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This isnt the ideal way to make more boost tbh, you would be safe with a possible couple of PSI, enough to notice, but not enough to make you go wow.
Have you remapped your car?
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This isnt the ideal way to make more boost tbh, you would be safe with a possible couple of PSI, enough to notice, but not enough to make you go wow.
Have you remapped your car?
not yet , not long got it and doin all the little mods first so i can squeeze more out the remap, im just forever reading up on stuff and like to share it lol
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That wouldnt work and would probably cause more problems.
When spooling, the N75 valve will be seeing no load as the pressure is stopped by the manual controller. Then your controller will let through say 15psi of pressure then the N75 valve will say nooo and just dump it all out, basically making it useless.
Just buy a proper remap. Far better!
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That wouldnt work and would probably cause more problems.
When spooling, the N75 valve will be seeing no load as the pressure is stopped by the manual controller. Then your controller will let through say 15psi of pressure then the N75 valve will say nooo and just dump it all out, basically making it useless.
Just buy a proper remap. Far better!
all in good time my friend, not long got it so just getn the car ready for a stage 1 map, could you go str9 for a satge 2 map, with the right mods of course or do u have to have the stage 1 first
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Straight to stage 2 is not a problem providing you have right mods.
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Straight to stage 2 is not a problem providing you have right mods.
Thanks :)
would a ko3s handle a stage 2 map or would i have to go fr a ko4, and also im assuming the injectors and fpr,TIP etc will all need to be upgraded, as well as the intercooler setup, n75valve as well, anything else lol
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Depends how far you want to push.
My AGU injectors topped out at around 235bhp.
My stage 2 setup:
k03s turbo with forge actuator with yellow spring (makes a huge difference and gets higher peak power figures + holds power far better)
new N75
new maf
VR6 maf housing
pipercross panel filter in smoothed airbox with cold air feed to bumper
Forge TIP (needed to fit a k03s to a AGU
Ebay decat
Homemade 2.5" exhaust
THS intercooler (needed for stage 2) (or FMIC)
Calira turbo yellow injectors
007p with yellow spring
PCV deleted
charcoal canister deleted
Throttle body mod
3bar FPR
Injectors and MAf housing aint needed if you pushing power.
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What mod have you done to TB Chris?
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You grind a bit out the limit stop on the cable throttle to allow it to open up fully
usually find you get about 82-85degrees throttle.....you can see in vagcom
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Depends how far you want to push.
My AGU injectors topped out at around 235bhp.
My stage 2 setup:
k03s turbo with forge actuator with yellow spring (makes a huge difference and gets higher peak power figures + holds power far better)
new N75
new maf
VR6 maf housing
pipercross panel filter in smoothed airbox with cold air feed to bumper
thanks alot mate, got a few bits n pieces
Forge TIP (needed to fit a k03s to a AGU
Ebay decat
Homemade 2.5" exhaust
THS intercooler (needed for stage 2) (or FMIC)
Calira turbo yellow injectors
007p with yellow spring
PCV deleted
charcoal canister deleted
Throttle body mod
3bar FPR
Injectors and MAf housing aint needed if you pushing power.
thanks m8, was that 235 on a stage 1 with standard injectors, got a few bits n pieces already, is there not much needed for a stage 1 map then, cos a lot o the stuff i was gna do anyway u had mentioned for your stage 2 setup, whats the TB mod and what do u mean by "Injectors and MAf housing aint needed if you pushing power., cheers bud ur a star :)
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you grind a bit out the limit stop on the cable throttle to allow it to open up fully, have u any pics of this m8, i have a grinder :) lol.
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No, ive never had a stage 1.
Ive always got R-tech to do my custom maps for me...so stage 2 custom mapped.
When you push power, the stock maf housing becomes restrictive, only allowing about 187g/s of air through it....so you need a bigger housing to flow more air and get adjustments in the ECU. SAme with the injectors, they are on max duty cycle at 235ish bhp.
Oh, need a good fuel pump too.
Pickles....Nope....precess of ellimination really with vagcom. Dremel or a good file will be enough.
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No, ive never had a stage 1.
Ive always got R-tech to do my custom maps for me...so stage 2 custom mapped.
When you push power, the stock maf housing becomes restrictive, only allowing about 187g/s of air through it....so you need a bigger housing to flow more air and get adjustments in the ECU. SAme with the injectors, they are on max duty cycle at 235ish bhp.
Oh, need a good fuel pump too.
Pickles....Nope....precess of ellimination really with vagcom. Dremel or a good file will be enough.
you got 235 bhp out a stage 2 map do u mean, surely this is a bit low, ive heard of ppl squeezing 230-240 with a stage 1 map
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Stage 1 k03s is typcially 210-225.
Its VERY hard to push over 230bhp without a actuator on.
Plus stage 2 tends to get more area under the graph and work on getting a nice smooth graph. Peak figures are only good for the pub
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Stage 1 k03s is typcially 210-225.
Its VERY hard to push over 230bhp without a actuator on.
Plus stage 2 tends to get more area under the graph and work on getting a nice smooth graph. Peak figures are only good for the pub
what actuator are u referring to bud
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Forge one is needed for anything over 230bhp. with yellow spring.
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Forge one is needed for anything over 230bhp. with yellow spring.
as in a 007p DV, iv got 1 with the green spring, easy to change the spring tho
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No. Actuator.
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u mean the wastgate on the turbo itself, soz im just gettin my head round turbo setups, got a thousand questions lol
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i have a manual boost controller on my AGU. seems all good to me.. fitted it myself did a couple of test runs and fine tuned.. its now running 15psi and somewhere just over 180bhp was cheap enough
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i have a manual boost controller on my AGU. seems all good to me.. fitted it myself did a couple of test runs and fine tuned.. its now running 15psi and somewhere just over 180bhp was cheap enough
sounds all good to me, how long have you had it on tho
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u mean the wastgate on the turbo itself, soz im just gettin my head round turbo setups, got a thousand questions lol
Yup, thats the one....actuator controls wastegate.
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sounds all good to me, how long have you had it on tho
ive had it on about 2 months now. no issues as of yet :)