GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: gtimac on 12 December 2011, 14:20
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Hi all
I have an AGU and am about to buy a FMIC from a very cool member of this site lol.
Any ideas if this is the correct pipework for a FMIC for my AGU???
Here are some pics
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/mikec1979/photo2-1.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/mikec1979/photo5-1.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/mikec1979/photo1.jpg)
(http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/mikec1979/photo3-1.jpg)
Any help really appreciated, need to figure out if this will fit my AGU lol
Cheers
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Plumb it however you like, some people follow the initial route and then have a long pipe which extends to the passengers side as an inlet, like a THS kit.
Toyosport kits go up from the turbo, over the engine cover somwhat to avoid gear linkage and drop into the drivers side for the intercooler inlet.
Do it however you see fit :smiley:
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Cheers mate.
Im now worried about the n75 after reading up on the fitting of the cooler lol.
Wondering if there is a way of leaving it in situ or plumbing it in....
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Just had a quick look in the dark and it looks like my N75 inserts into the TIP. Does this mean that I dont need to plumb it into the intercooler pipes as Im not replacing the TIP?
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At the moment you should have two pipes coming from your standard intercooler.
1 I think is the N75 and the 2nd is the recirc valve. Both of which are plumbed into the TIP.
I have a fmic and ill post a pic for you soon mate.
I had to buy a 8mm take off which connected to my silicone tubing (As my fmic pipework only had 1 take take off which was for the recirc valve) Its all a doddle aslong as you have common sence and time :grin:
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Thanks mate. I havent got the kit yet - will arrive Wednesday but Im trying to route the pipework going off the pic. Apparently there are no "take off's" in any of the pipework which Im a bit convcerned about.
Also, the long piece of silicone - cant figure out where that goes. Dont know if this is the kit that runs like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=agu+fmic&um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&sa=N&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&biw=1600&bih=761&tbm=isch&tbnid=6m8KoTxMgl1f3M:&imgrefurl=http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/107421-a3-aum-1-8t-ebay-fmic-install.html&docid=qEzCKJreHYrsMM&imgurl=http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3245/dsc00734vj.jpg&w=1024&h=768&ei=UkHmTtPMM7TY4QS33_mqBQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=862&vpy=203&dur=583&hovh=193&hovw=257&tx=138&ty=85&sig=117326550390039667164&page=3&tbnh=122&tbnw=159&start=64&ndsp=32&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:64
Or if the pipework "doubles back" on itself to where the sidemount was.
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Has it been fitted to a car before?
Im not sure all the required pipes are there? :huh:
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Apparently it has yeah and all the fittings are present. I was thinking that it looked a bit light on metal piing until I saw the large silicone pipe on the right of the pic - Im assuming thats the part that goes up through the passenger side to the top of the engine.
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not the greatest pics so hard to tell, especially not knowing what the intended pipe route is.
One thing that will get you stuck straight away though is i can't see any where for your dv and n75 valves to take a boost feed from, unless you have to retain your original metal pipe and chop/rotate it?
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fook knows. get out there and start unbolting stuff. men with pride need no guide!
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fook knows. get out there and start unbolting stuff. men with pride need no guide!
:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
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Hahaha love it.
Wolverine, that was what I was thinking - so that the pipe that has the DV and N75 off takes doesnt have to be removed. Does that make sense? lol
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Cool. I was worried that on my pipework I didnt have a take off for the DV and N75. So retaining this charge pipe will keep them and I can just connect the new pipework to it?
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what engine was it fitted to? if it wasnt on an agu then youll need a cap for the map sensor hole
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It must have been on an AGU as there are no outlets anywhere on any of the pipes. Thats why I was worried about the N75 and DV take off's. But retaining the original charge pipe seemingly avoids having to get new take off's welded onto new intercooler pipework.
My (limited) understanding is that 1 pipe and silicone will go from the throttle body to the intercooler (drivers side).
Another will go from the other side of the intercooler up to the charge pipe (that will be retained).
The final piece will go from the other end of the charge pipe, possibly replacing the pancake pipe.
Am I correct? lol
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If it is being fed from original charge pipe, you will need a 180 degree bend, and route piping back behind intercooler as its not a twinpass cooler.
Possible.
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Right we are way above my understanding now haha.
I dont have a replacement charge pipe in the kit (I dont think when looking at the pics of the pipes I have).
Can anyone give me an insight into how I can get it plumbed in with the parts I have?
Ta
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Just a thought too:
1 pipe goes from throttle body to the intercooler (drivers side) and the other intercooler pipe (passenger side) goes to 1 end of the charge pipe - that Im ok with.
But where does the other end of the charge pipe go to? Seems like it has to go somewhere if I am meant to replace the pipe at that end too.....
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Right here's how it works on an agu stock from memory
Turbo 50mm->90degree silicone bend->steel charge pipe with 90 degree mandrel bend (with 8mm outlet for n75 and 25mm outlet for DV recirc)-> this then becomes all mainly silicone and connects to->pancake pipe->SMIC->more silicone all the way to->TB->Inlet manifold->Engine *tada!*
If you need the 8mm T pieces for whatever reason, cheapest tip is, if you are not planning to ever remove the FMIC once its on, then get that charge pipe off the back of the engine which you would need to unclamp with 10mm socket if memory serves me well, I did it from underneath the car as you have silicone joining onto it as well. Once its off you have the 25mm and 8mm bits branching off it. Chop it down with an angle grinder and get it beaded and wollah you have a brand new 8mm T piece from a recycled charge pipe, or go scrappy and dig spare charge pipe out.
You won't be able to chop out the 25mm T piece, as its very close to the bend, this is providing you want a straight T piece, or technically you could re-use that charge pipe before the TB as it will allow the DV to be relocated, but I'm not sure how the n75 would respond to a feed that far in the system.
Route wise, i'd say as Toph said, whip the bumper off have a quick fiddle and decide how you want it done, there's many ways possible and its down to you, plus with the bumper off you will get an idea of how much piping there is and how it can go with the amount of piping you have in front of you.
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Any way of retaining the existing charge pipe as I don't have a replacement
Cheers
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Yes, how i mentioned above.
Try to find the APT(?) fmic 'Wazzzer' was selling for inspiration :smiley:
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Any way of retaining the existing charge pipe as I don't have a replacement
Cheers
Why not plumb from the pancake pipe then, solves a lot of hassle, just get a long tube from pancake and run it all the way to the passengers side inlet on the FMIC?
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I think that may be how it was done. There is a very long piece of silicone tubing on the right of my picture. Would this be good enough?
So if I did it this way I dont need to run piping up and over the engine from the passenger side?
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Can I remove the pancake and run the hose/piping straight from charge pipe to intercooler (passenger side)?
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You can run it round that way, you can flip the charge pipe round, but the route there is not as easy, as you have the gearbox on the passengers side and the gear linkage in the way. You cant lay the pipes to close to the gear linkage as this moves up and down, if a pipe obstructs this movement you will have trouble selecting gears as I found out when I made custom pipes.
If you decide to go with running a long pipe from pancake to passenger inlet on the FMIC, make sure the pipes lower than the rad, as the last thing you want is air passing from the rad and FMIC going over it, as this will warm the pipe up and increase the charge temperture, which is the opposite of what you are trying to achieve.
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I dunno quite what you mean Wolverine lool
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Bloody hell, Picasso lives on :grin:
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Haha love the pic - its actually sorted it in my head now!!! Thanks very very much