GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Wisey on 21 November 2011, 11:22
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Got another problem with my golf :angry:
Last night when I was driving home and 12-1 in the morning. I notice that I have started to get a really bad shake from the front end of the car. Can feel it thought the peddles, gear knob and the floor. :huh:
Only really happens/is noticable when you put the foot to the floor in 3rd, 4th, 5th when at 2000 rpm's +
Not had a chance to look at it yet. But just looking for ideas what it could be :undecided:
And the car is a standard 1.8T Agu
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Could be engine mountings could need tightening maybe.
Had this my old mk4 golf gttdi after having my timingbelt changed, the numpty mechanic didnt tighten the engine mount :angry:
Could be many things to be fair.
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Will have a look mate. But can't really see it being that because just passed it's mot a week ago.
Thought it might be something to do with the fuelling, coli pack, boost leak or something like the. Because it only happens when it starts to pull/come on boost :undecided:
Also thought I could be the DM fly wheel :cry: Anyone got any tips to check it? Because am sure there are on rattles etc coming from it. And I it was the fly would it not slowly get worse? These jubbers have just came from no where. Was so bad I had to put over to check the my wheel nuts were tight. Felt like the wheels were ready to fall off :sad:
Anyone got any other ideas?
Cheers
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Mmm thats strange,
When it starts juddering is it losing power at all or sound like its running on 3 cylinders?
If its running rough and missing I would bet its the ignition amp which is on the airbox, this is connected to the coil packs and can cause missing etc its a simple fix most of the time you can sand paper the metal part of the amp so its clean again and it may sort it out. (Do a search on AGU ignition amp on google youll get a sh!t load of info come up as its common)
If its a knocking noise maybe try your dogbone mount I polybushed mine as when pulling off past 1500rpm it would knock, and when changing gears. (This dogbone mount may even have come loose?)
I duno if a boost leak would cause juddering as mine as a boost leak currently and it doesnt judder, best way to find out is to fit a boost gauge but I wouldnt think this is the issue.
It could well be the dual mass flywheel, it would constantly judder when holding the clutch biting point and pulling off I would have thought.
Out of these above if it only happens when starting to pull/come on boost I would say its the ignition amp, this is a common fault on the 1.8t agu's
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Have intermttantly had that for many months VAGCOM just shows what translates to boost leak which means any where.
Worth while doing a pressure test thats how i found mine, couldnt feel the leak just hear it with regulated 5psi plumbed in from compressor. Turns out it is the intercoler where alum joins the plastic.
Confirmed this with 4 faults using VAS i forget the numbers but translated from turbo to throttle body plus a separate MAF code and 2 for fuel trims trying to rectify.
Might back on the road tomorrow after 6 days.
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Cheers just ordered a vagcom cable today!
Hoping its just something like a boost leak. Dont want it to be my fly wheel :cry: :grin:
Got any tips on the best way to pressure test it?
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First thing to do is get it scanned.
Does it happen throughout the rev range, or just at low RPM? Does it happen intermittently and if so after juddering does it stop boosting (can't hear any spooling and feels slow).
My gut says a misfire.
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Scanner should be here by the end of then week. And I'll see what codes come up, never been scanned in the 2 years I have had it :laugh:
Well it was late and haven't had a chance to drive it since, but yeah the car does sound like its missing to be honest, just doesn't sound smooth at all when you hold it up at 3.5K in second gear. I think it feels like its losing power a bit, but still has a bit of go in 2nd and 3rd.
The highest I took it was 4k and was still happening then, didn't want to go to high in case I broke down in the middle of no where :lipsrsealed: :grin:
And mine is just standard, so cant really tell or hear, when/ if its boosting really :undecided:
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Fighting a losing battle here without codes, take it from there.
Also need to delete the faults, caused me a few probs today until figured.
ie 4 faults to start with plus logged, ended up with around 12 faults as i was testing without putting car back together.
So in all replaced the intercooler had a code for the sensor G31? come up, but ran far better. MAF G90? showed sporadic low voltage and logged but put orginal back on and still had same symptoms.
After this pretty much the same as before until i deleted the faults, some even passed VW dealer with last service.
Whilst at it cleaned the throttle body out and set it up electrically, takes 30 secs.
37 mile in the morning the only probs are possibly the oxygene and lambda sensor showing 011 instead of 111.
Probably better if you have a look at these links below.
I made an adaptor up with quick release fitting that clamps inside air intake when removed from MAF, throttle body pipe is a smaller size. Plug a regulated 5 psi (spare regulator) and open the tap. Could save a lot of time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s29Q77hK-i4&feature=youtube_gdata
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=uixdw49Km4s
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If its missing its 99.9% the ignition amp on the air box. Take it off give it a clean, hopefully itl sort out your issue. (If it doesnt its likely you need a new 1)
As i said above this is a common fault on the agu that causes missfire symptoms.
For the sake of 10mins go and check NOW! :grin: then report back to us.
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If its missing its 99.9% the ignition amp on the air box. Take it off give it a clean, hopefully itl sort out your issue. (If it doesnt its likely you need a new 1)
As i said above this is a common fault on the agu that causes missfire symptoms.
For the sake of 10mins go and check NOW! :grin: then report back to us.
amen :cool:
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Well just been out having a look.
Started the car up and its missing. Was not so bad when cold but when started to heat up you could really hear/feel that it was missing.
Took the ignition amp out. Didn't look dirty or anything but gave it a clean anyway. Put it back in and now the engine bogs right down and nearly stalls at idle when could. But when it starts to warm up it will idle. But its still missing and near un-drivable when cold.
So going to order an IA and take it from there I think. Where's the best place to get a IA ? :undecided:
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Looked at a few ones online and going from the photo's, it looks like you just get the little plastic bit that the connect, connects into.
I think I need the whole unit that sits inside the air box. Because the little plastic contacts(Can't describe it any better :rolleyes:) , look like they are split and just want to change the whole unit in a oner.
Edit:
Sorry getting mixed up here I mean the MAF :laugh: Took that out as well and looks like its split :undecided: so going to get one of them and take it from there
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Sorry getting mixed up here I mean the MAF :laugh: Took that out as well and looks like its split :undecided: so going to get one of them and take it from there
What does it run like with the maf unplugged. :undecided:
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Not tried that mate. Never thought of that. Will give it ago tomorrow when I get home.
What should it run like when its un-plugged? Safe to drive it un-plugged if it runs ok? :undecided:
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Your symptoms similar?
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=213119.0
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The IA is on the airbox it will have 2 plugs on it, unplug them and I think its bolted on to the airbox with 2 8mm bolts. Once you have removed these, the IA will come away from the airbox leaving a pastey substance on the IA and the metal part on the airbox.
Use sand paper and take away all the pastey substance on both the IA and metal heat sink thing on the on the airbox then re-connect.
If no luck, Unplug the MAF (Air flow meter) this is located between the turbo intake pipe and airbox. It will be a big round sensor that connects the airbox to the turbo intake pipe. Start the car go for a drive and if it runs abit better then the issue would be the MAF not the IA.
Theres not alot than can cause the 1.8t AGU's to missfire so dont give up you will get it in the end.
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Just got my vagcom/code reader there. Will stick it in and see what it comes up with.
What happens it I cleaned the pasty stuff off the IA? :undecided: :laugh:
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Wee update.
Car will run without MAF disconnected. And when you plug it back in the car just bogs down and dies
And scanned the car and came up with a mass air fault or something 04something :laugh: forgot to right it down or copy it :lipsrsealed:
So going to order a new MAF and take it from there!
Cheers for all the help :smiley:
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Genuine bud, save yourself any more problems :wink:
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Genuine bud, save yourself any more problems :wink:
Yup yup. Go genuine! :cool: VW and Euro Car Parts take your old one in exchange and discount the new one.
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Just going to get a Bosch one from euro parts. The one that's in is a Bosch one.
Think its £100.80 including a £42 surcharge. Plus another 25% off :smug:
Edit:
Anyone know if you can buy online get it delivered. Then take the old unit to the store yourself and get refunded the £42 ?
Dont have the time to go and buy in and need the car on Friday night :undecided:
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Update for anyone having a similar problem :smiley:
Cleaned the IA didn't make the car run any better. Then fitted a new MAF and it's as good as new.
Running better then it has been for the last few months :grin:
Cheers for the help! :wink: