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General => General discussion => Topic started by: SarahD on 03 May 2005, 18:52
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well i think its the actual head gasket thats leaking.....am gunna get one to be on the safe side.....
but theres a lot of oil under plug 3 and theres a bit of a chip on the head.... :cry:
how much will it be for a head gasket, am i right in thinking its only a head gasket, timing belt and head bolts i will need to do it? is it a really hard job?
i am gunna degrease the engine and then see if i can see any oil anywhere...... think its just the seal tbh
are there any other gaskets gonna need replacing if i do change the head one
btw its a mk3 2.0 8v engine
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from the pictures, i wouldn't say it was your head gasket, there is no oil coming from the seal around there, and it would be a waste of money, like i said, it's probably your oil pressure switch on the housing of the filter.
Look there first.
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i took a look at your pics and it looks to me like the headkasket is blowing near the distributor cap area :undecided:
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i wouldn't do the head gasket until you've exhausted all the other problems. i don't think it'd go engine side anyway as the water and oil ways should be nice and thick. they normally go inside where the gasket is thinner.
give it a good clean and then find the source of the problem.
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i hope to god it aint head gasket
gunna degrease and clean everywhere and try finding where its coming from
need some ramps ideally to get underneath and give it a good clean
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take it down your local jet wash, spray some engine de-greaser all over it and leave it for a while then start it up and keep the engine running. then blast away with a hot programme and it should be fine. i used to mine like that all the time, if you keep the engine running it helps soften the crud and the water evaporates quickly too so you shouldn't get any water related electrical troubles. obviously don't spray straight on to anything sensitive!!!
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joe tbh my engine looks like a proper bodge job. i mean if its raining it doesnt run properly..... really misses etc..... theres wires everywhere i really dont think i would dare spray water on it :shocked:
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yeah that dosent sound like a good idea!!! scratch that one then!
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mates told me hes got a 1.8 16v engine so i may swop that over and put it in... cos tbh mines a proper bodge job from looking at it.... and i think my cam would go in there too wouldnt it :huh:
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your cam wouldn go in there sass... the best thing to do if u get a valver is the twin zorst cam modd
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why wont the cam go in its outta the 1.8 8v originally i think :huh:
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mainly because a valver is a DOHC, whereas the 8v was a singular, i think also the 16v were a different fitment to the 16v's due to the spacing, and also the time it held the exaust valves open.
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Sass take it to a garage and ask for a steam clean, this will get rid of ALL the oil in your engine bay at the moment and if it dont start after it's down to the machanic to get it going again (just bat your eye lashes at him) then by the time you get home you can see exactly where the oil is coming from and work out what you need from there.
If your still unsure take some more pic's of your clean engine and post them on here and we can all have a look.
Pink Floyd
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i hope to god it aint head gasket
gunna degrease and clean everywhere and try finding where its coming from
need some ramps ideally to get underneath and give it a good clean
Your welcome to borrow my ramps if you need to. Just let me know
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thanks ben mate, but ive been to the garage today and its coming from the head gasket :embarassed:
dont think its that bad and im gunna get a head gasket at the weekend...
am gunna clean it tomorrow and get some better pics but heres the proof for now....
(http://images9.fotki.com/v179/photos/2/208436/2142412/oilleak032-vi.jpg)
(http://images9.fotki.com/v173/photos/2/208436/2142412/oilleak031-vi.jpg)
(http://images2.fotki.com/v18/photos/2/208436/2142412/oilleak029-vi.jpg)
:cry:
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christ!! that would've been the last place i'd have thought oil would have come from!!!
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the lad at the garage said dont worry bout it too much cos it dont seem that bad
theres not been any leaks on the floor but its defo leaking from there a little bit
hope it dont fcuk the head up... ill get a 16v engine if i do though
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I trust that you're getting the head skimmed ,shouldn't cost much, otherwise you could end up back at square one and having to pay out for another gasket set. :huh:      Which is exactly what I ended up doing once , when I wrongly assumed that the head was OK :angry:
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no i aint
if it still leaks then ill put a diff engine in cos itl be cheaper
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Right............always check the head as it doesn't take a lot for it to go out of 'true'. Skimming the head will be very much cheaper than a new engine!
Those leads are not original VAG oem therefore why you are having a rough problem in the wet.............Pay the extra and get oem leads...........they will make the world of difference :wink:
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Having said that.........the shields around the spark plugs look oem............but usually a wet running problem will be HT ignition and therefore look at the leads and cap
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You don't need to skim the head unless it is warped. Or the gasket mating surface is damaged.
As rich said you need to check it, use a decent straight edge and using it across 3 axis on the head determine whether or not it is warped or damaged, Heads dont normally warp unless overheated.
I think its a crap gasket to be honest, has the head ever been off in the past for work?
I'm assuming it has as your car has a 2 litre bottom end so was it fitted with a genuine gasket or a pattern?
Pattern gaskets always end up blowing and its a false economy, get a proper VW one.
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Agree with Pete there............never had to have one skimmed myself 'todate' as I've always looked after my engines.............unless its been overheated, it shouldn't need skimming. But you do need to make sure the head is 'true' before refitting :wink:
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You don't need to skim the head unless it is warped. Or the gasket mating surface is damaged.
As rich said you need to check it, use a decent straight edge and using it across 3 axis on the head determine whether or not it is warped or damaged, Heads dont normally warp unless overheated.
I think its a crap gasket to be honest, has the head ever been off in the past for work?
I'm assuming it has as your car has a 2 litre bottom end so was it fitted with a genuine gasket or a pattern?
Pattern gaskets always end up blowing and its a false economy, get a proper VW one.
its not a 2ltr bottom end its a full 2ltr and i havent go the foggiest if its had any head work done at all... the original head gasket went when it was an 1.8 8v and he replaced the whole engine
i may have a 1.8 16v engine for free coming my way so im not getting the head skimmed etc if it is fcuked
i havent got a clue what gasket its got on it.... and theyre magnecore leads and are only 2mths old that are on the car at present
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sass r u gonna move over to kjet then?? or u getting a mk3 16v and loom
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erm wats the difference betwen k jet and digifant?
if i can get hold of a mk3 16v id be a lot more happy, mates seein if he can get me one very cheap :cool:
if not ill go back to a 1.8 but itl be a valver instead of an 8v
i aint too clued up on VW engines at the mo though so itl be a learning curve helping to fit the engine as im not one to stand back and watch
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erm wats the difference betwen k jet and digifant?
if i can get hold of a mk3 16v id be a lot more happy, mates seein if he can get me one very cheap :cool:
if not ill go back to a 1.8 but itl be a valver instead of an 8v
i aint too clued up on VW engines at the mo though so itl be a learning curve helping to fit the engine as im not one to stand back and watch
K jet is the mechanical injection system the valver uses and digi is the electronic ecu controlled injection system used by some 8 valvers.
The valver engine is k-jet. However the mk3 valver is electronic injection controlled by the ecu.
A good option if you want a valver is to go for the mk2 valver engine with a 2 litre bottom end off a passat, its a 9A block. Works well in my opinion but hey im byast.
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sounds like a man with a plan
*flutters lashes*
please will you help me ben :kiss: :laugh:
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Help you what? :huh:
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Sounds like a good plan, the trouble comes when you come to find a good 9A engine as most will need rebuilding by now unless you find the holy grail of a low mileage engine.
If you do get a 9A head and block complete then just fit it as a whole and swap the KR inlet cam over as this is a better spec cam compared to the catalyst spec 9A inlet cam. you can split it to fit the KR head but its not really neccesary.
If you want torque then fit the 9A 44mm inlet manifold. If you want top end BHP then go for the KR 50mm inlet manifold.
If your sourcing the 1984cc ABF tall block from a MK3 16V then I would just stick this in with the associated ECU and other gubbins and not worry about tuning it till its all up and running. After all you say your getting it for free so why cost yourself money.
Sell the engine on you got at the moment and your laughing (hopefully)