GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: gti_mk3 on 07 November 2011, 21:49
-
VAG-COM fault 01276 - ABS unit repair in 10 easy steps.
=======================================================
Suffering from this fault code? ABS light keeps coming on? If this sounds familiar - read on.
I'm on my second Mk3 8v, and will attempt any repair before giving money to a 'stealership'.
In terms of 'repair effort' vs. 'money saved' this is a good one....
The other day I was presented with the permanent ABS light problem, and expecting to have to fork out for a sensor or two,
when I plugged the car into VAG-COM it came up with this error...
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3A0-907-379.LBL
Controller: 3A0 907 379 D
Component: ABS ITTAE 20 GI V00
Coding: 03704
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 2B2984AFCA0B
1 Fault Found:
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications
When I looked at the pics of replacement units online I thought they looked familiar and realised its the same unit as my Volvo V70..
I know - I was surprised too. Well being the same unit they are prone to similar problems.. and thanks to a helpful write-up on a Volvo forum I repaired my Volvo ABS unit about 6 months ago with the following...
A torx E5 socket
small mirror
stanley knife
tweezers from the bathroom cabinet
screwdriver and pliers
a soldering iron
some sikaflex 221
The ABS light on the Volvo has never returned, so I thought I'd attempt this on the Golf. The problem with the units is that one or two of the solder joints break after a while
(in my case about 13 years of use). The breaks are difficult to see, but a quick dab with a soldering iron on the right joints is all that is needed.
So if you are reasonably competent with a soldering iron and fancy giving this a go, here's what you need to do.
1. Disconnect the battery...(this will clear your fault code anyway)
2. Take the broken ABS unit off. To do this you'll need a torx E5 socket (quite small, 1/4 inch drive). You will need to disconnect the
connection plugs (x2) and three of the brake pipes before the ABS module can be lowered downwards. There are 4 bolts about 50mm long to remove.
Small mirror quite handy here..
3. This is the only difficult part, prising off the lid of the unit. Firstly there are 4 circular clips, I removed mine with an engineer's scriber, or small screwdriver will do. Then carefully with pliers and / or screwdriver pick off the side flange of the lid. It is glued for a good seal with Sikaflex 221 and takes a while to do this... patience is the key.
4. Eventually it will prise off and you are left with the view in the photo. There may be a silicone seal across the printed circuit board (PCB) in which case you will need to remove this before soldering. Take a stanley knife and a small pair of your missus' tweezers and lift off enough of the silicone around the joints to be soldered. Take care not to damage the PCB with the knife.
5. Before soldering the PCB itself practice on a board from an old radio or something, this will help you get a steady hand..
6. The joints you need to re-solder are circled in the attached photo.
(https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=184d80db635a08be&page=play&resid=184D80DB635A08BE!107)
7. Finally seal the lid back down with Sikaflex 221 (silicone sealant will probably do).
8. Leave overnight for the sealant to dry.
9. Fit the unit back on and re-bleed the brakes if you lost too much fluid. I didn't need to bleed mine however.
10. Reconnect battery and drive off with no more annoying ABS light.
I hope this helps some of you out there as much as it has helped me. I think I've saved about £1500 on my two cars with this repair - costing no more than about £15. By the way - attempt this at your own risk - I take no responsibility for any damage caused by the above!!
(https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=184d80db635a08be&page=play&resid=184D80DB635A08BE!107)
Cheers
Chris
-
I'll try again with a link to the image..!
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=184d80db635a08be&page=play&resid=184D80DB635A08BE!107 (https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=184d80db635a08be&page=play&resid=184D80DB635A08BE!107)
-
Thats quite handy to know :cool:
-
Will this cure a problem with abs sensor faults showing? Especially on the rear.
-
Will definatly be giving this a go cheers!
-
Will this cure a problem with abs sensor faults showing? Especially on the rear.
Yes it can do - the group of four solder connections are for the 4 sensors. These are prone to fail just like the power input connection in the bottom of the image. If you have only one rear sensor at fault you can swap the connectors under the back seat - this will tell you if the sensor is actually at fault or the module itself. It is worth removing the wheel sensors and cleaning gently with a wire brush as they get covered in crud. If they are split then water gets inside and the only option is to renew them. I've only fitted genuine VW sensors when mine have failed in the past but have since found that non-genuine ones are much cheaper and just as good. GSF car parts probably sell them.
-
I did that and swapped sensors. I ended up with two sensor faults, proving i had an ecu problem. I had an old ecu that i'd tried to open. Ended up cutting the lid open as it seemed impossible to get off without breaking. Must be more patient next time. :huh:
I have a not working ECU at the moment. I may have another go. By the way. You dont need to remove brake lines to get the ecu out. You can bend the lines out of the way. :wink:
-
Getting the lid off is the only tricky part but eventually they give way..
Sounds like the solder joints are the problem on yours. Definitely worth a go.
By the way. You dont need to remove brake lines to get the ecu out. You can bend the lines out of the way. :wink:
I tried bending mine - but bottled it for fear of breaking them! good to know that this can be done tho'
-
Will this cure a problem with abs sensor faults showing? Especially on the rear.
Yes it can do - the group of four solder connections are for the 4 sensors. These are prone to fail just like the power input connection in the bottom of the image.
Just to add a correction. Those pins arent the sensors.
Sensors are the the smaller pins top right.
-
definately trying this next weekend mines fubarbed and cant find a replacement anywhere :sad:
-
Just did mine. Just waiting for tiger seal to dry. The SH one i bought was faulty too. Will refit test tomorrow.
Small sensor pins are easy. The lager ones need alot of heat to get solder flowing. :wink:
-
Tread revival alert!
T shirt can you fix my abs ecu again :laugh:
-
thought i'd solved my abs problem by getting a pump fitted but still got it :angry: thinking it's this problem anyhow i have just taken my spare one apart and can see everything the image has shown :smiley: Thing is the solder joints all look good under the silicon but does that mean it still could be the problem and its under the board which is wrong? looks like new with lid off should i still try this?
-
Flaming abs ey,mine has been faultless since t shirt sorted it,but last few days it been having a fit,light on ,light off ,light on,pump is kicking in making crazy noises without even touching the brake ,showing fault codes for rear right and left, handbrake light came on once for less than a second, looking like the ecu again,
Any one know what the values should be when testing each sensor with a meter im sure it was something like between 1 and 1.3 kohms is good,can someone confirm this.
-
I think 1.3k is too high. What's happend to it?
-
Flaming abs ey,mine has been faultless since t shirt sorted it,but last few days it been having a fit,light on ,light off ,light on,pump is kicking in making crazy noises without even touching the brake ,showing fault codes for rear right and left, handbrake light came on once for less than a second, looking like the ecu again,
Any one know what the values should be when testing each sensor with a meter im sure it was something like between 1 and 1.3 kohms is good,can someone confirm this.
Doing my head in now i'm getting scared incase it snows because the brakes are just to dodgey for that :sad: wish i could just sort this! i'm going to try this tip on here and if that dosn't cure it i'm going to buy new everything for it and get it all fitted properly then it should work :smiley:
-
Flaming abs ey,mine has been faultless since t shirt sorted it,but last few days it been having a fit,light on ,light off ,light on,pump is kicking in making crazy noises without even touching the brake ,showing fault codes for rear right and left, handbrake light came on once for less than a second, looking like the ecu again,
Any one know what the values should be when testing each sensor with a meter im sure it was something like between 1 and 1.3 kohms is good,can someone confirm this.
It could still be sensors. I had a new one that had failed after a few months and the car hadn't turned a wheel.
-
Alright russ, yeah I hope it is just the sensors , but both go down at the same time is pretty unlikely :undecided: will relpace them and go from there.So what should the kohm be for a good sensor, you did tell me once but I is a goldfish :grin:
-
Anything between 1000Ω and 1300Ω is good.
Wondering what would cause unit to fail again? It was sealed up well, better than mine.
Either your engine bay gets really hot or it's getting wet due to no under tray.
-
After the conversion I should imagine the under bonnet temps are far greater,i do also have no undertray anymore as have not put it back on ,so this could be the reason/s, if its not the sensors.
-
Yea. Undertray helps aero too. I would get some heatproof material and try to protect it a bit.
Ethier that or expansion tank is leaking over it.
-
Flaming abs ey,mine has been faultless since t shirt sorted it,but last few days it been having a fit,light on ,light off ,light on,pump is kicking in making crazy noises without even touching the brake ,showing fault codes for rear right and left, handbrake light came on once for less than a second, looking like the ecu again,
Any one know what the values should be when testing each sensor with a meter im sure it was something like between 1 and 1.3 kohms is good,can someone confirm this.
Doing my head in now i'm getting scared incase it snows because the brakes are just to dodgey for that :sad: wish i could just sort this! i'm going to try this tip on here and if that dosn't cure it i'm going to buy new everything for it and get it all fitted properly then it should work :smiley:
How much is new everything mike :grin: a lot I think .
-
ABS ecu circa £800 :shocked:
-
Flaming abs ey,mine has been faultless since t shirt sorted it,but last few days it been having a fit,light on ,light off ,light on,pump is kicking in making crazy noises without even touching the brake ,showing fault codes for rear right and left, handbrake light came on once for less than a second, looking like the ecu again,
Any one know what the values should be when testing each sensor with a meter im sure it was something like between 1 and 1.3 kohms is good,can someone confirm this.
Doing my head in now i'm getting scared incase it snows because the brakes are just to dodgey for that :sad: wish i could just sort this! i'm going to try this tip on here and if that dosn't cure it i'm going to buy new everything for it and get it all fitted properly then it should work :smiley:
How much is new everything mike :grin: a lot I think .
lol that was my angry side i wouldn't bother with new just maybe recon stuff from somewhere :smiley: think i'm going to have a go at trying this guide at weekend see if it works for me as i have got my spare ecu open now :smiley:
-
I opened a spare and pretty much wrecked the lid.
-
I opened a spare and pretty much wrecked the lid.
I did that to my original one then chucked it in the bin. :sad:
-
I opened a spare and pretty much wrecked the lid.
haha my lids still intact i have just wrecked the lip around it but nothing a good sealant wouldn't cure once i'm happy with the inside it will never be opened again :grin: still not sure it is the problem as the contacts which are suggested to solder all look good and in contact still :sad:
tshirt - can you see a visable defect with the solder if there is a problem when you do it? cheers
Mike
-
You can't really see a dry joint unless you use a magnifying glass. Even then you cant really tell.
You have to test the joints with a meter for resistance to be sure.
-
You can't really see a dry joint unless you use a magnifying glass. Even then you cant really tell.
You have to test the joints with a meter for resistance to be sure.
ok cheers mate :smiley: