GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: NERF 69 on 06 November 2011, 16:32
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Hi all, i have a problem with my 95 8v gti. Its been running funny for a few weeks now i.e. Fuel consumption has halfed and it might just be me but it sempt to be abit flat under hard accelleration. It was stood for 4 days, i went to start it up and nothing :huh:. It turns over nicely, i have fuel and a spark but it doesnt fire up and my oil light flashes. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
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Try changing relay 30. :smiley:
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And also the coolant temp sensor.
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Ive just read something about i will have a look. Thankyou
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Thanks khare will do. I like the pic on ur post thats a regular sight on my drive lol. Good old golfs ay
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Haha yes, they're always in bits!
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Yep. All good fun though
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If the number 30 relay has gone will i still get a spark when i turn the engine over?
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If the number 30 relay has gone will i still get a spark when i turn the engine over?
No, it is the ECU relay.
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Thought so. Is there anything else that could be stopping the car from starting even thought there is fuel and a spark?????
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Timing or crank position sensor :undecided: have you got an immobiliser ? can you start it by jump starting it? Have you cleaned the throttle body ?
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Im not 100% sure if it has an immobilizer the only bit of evidence ive got to say it has one is a systems check list done by an independant garage from the previous owner and i haven tried to bump it yet because i wont get it bavk on my drive. Would any of the suggested faults explain why my fuel consumption dropped?
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Sorry dude i meant fuel relay 167,i allways get them the wrong way round :rolleyes:,when you say youve got fuel do you mean in the tank or at the injectors,can you smell petrol out the exhaust after cranking?
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Could you get a mate or someone to pop around with some jump leads because if it starts with a jump then it could be either alternator, starter motor or batterys to low to start it.
Not sure what your fuel problem was/is could be a number of things however if your timings out by a tooth then it would certainly be sluggish and could i suppose use more fuel. Simple way of knowing if the timings out or the hall sensor is broken is if you get it started rev it and see if it goes over 5000rpm if it won't go over that then the cars in limp mode meaning one of the two problems i've said is broken or off marks.
Have you had it on a vag com tester to see if any codes are showing? If not ask if theres someone near by who can do it for you or buy one off ebay for about £10 ish
Other thing is have you checked your oil and water is all correct and neither is contaminated with eachother?
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Sorry dude i meant fuel relay 167,i allways get them the wrong way round :rolleyes:,when you say youve got fuel do you mean in the tank or at the injectors,can you smell petrol out the exhaust after cranking?
the spark plugs are soaked in fuel
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Timing or crank position sensor :undecided: have you got an immobiliser ? can you start it by jump starting it? Have you cleaned the throttle body ?
Im not questioning your knowledge at all here but why would the throttle body cause this. Just asking so i know what im looking for when i check it
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OK,so you defo got fuel as plugs are wet,where did you check for spark ,at the plug end or coil lead,just to eliminate rotor and cap,when cranking is the spark still there say after 5seconds of cranking or does it stop sparking while still cranking,have you checked your timing marks line up? :smiley:
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OK,so you defo got fuel as plugs are wet,where did you check for spark ,at the plug end or coil lead,just to eliminate rotor and cap,when cranking is the spark still there say after 5seconds of cranking or does it stop sparking while still cranking,have you checked your timing marks line up? :smiley:
i arced the plugs up against the block and it continued to spark. I havent checked the timing. How would i do this?
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I have the same problem now :(
My failure to start is following cleaning the throttle body out which is annoying as I have never heard anyone have a problem after cleaning it out!
My car wouldn't rev past 5000rpm before, but did on 1 random occasion. I have had my hall sensor checked by the electrical engineers at work and they said its fine, so I may have a wiring fault, although I still have a spark and wet plugs too....
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Just got round to bumping and jumping my car still no luck gonna replace the coil pack today if i still have no joy i know av lovely scrap man who would love to take it off my hands
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Just been to a garage which specializes in golfs he seems to think it the crank sensor so i bought one and im gonna fit it when ive got any spare time failing that he thinks the fuel pumps not got enough pressure. Fingers crossed its this sensor.
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I have the same problem now :(
My failure to start is following cleaning the throttle body out which is annoying as I have never heard anyone have a problem after cleaning it out!
My car wouldn't rev past 5000rpm before, but did on 1 random occasion. I have had my hall sensor checked by the electrical engineers at work and they said its fine, so I may have a wiring fault, although I still have a spark and wet plugs too....
If your car didn't pass the 5000rpm limit then its a timing issue which points to either knackered hall sensor, distributor or the timing has come out on the engine as you have said it did once i would look at distributor first and as you say possible wire contacting under acceleration. Not sure if ignition switch falls under the limp mode setting or not :undecided:
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I think ive found the problem. I took the front splitter off the car and noticed somehing hanging in front of the drivers wheel. Its cylindrical with two yellow wires on each end which lead into one yellow plug which plugs into what i think is the main wirering loom under he air box. Does anyone what it is?
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Yes that is to do with the dipped beam on the headlights not sure how that would cause your problem though :undecided: Think the five mk3's ive had have all been hanging down or missing with no issue :smiley:
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Carbon Canister? Not needed anyway really so shouldnt cause you problems. :undecided:
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Nothings changed back to swapping the crank sensor
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Could be an ecu fault :undecided:
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Let us know how changing the crank sensor goes!
How much was a new one?
Feel for you mate, it's horrible throwing money in again and again to no avail!
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Let us know how changing the crank sensor goes!
How much was a new one?
Feel for you mate, it's horrible throwing money in again and again to no avail!
cost me £30. Gonna av a go on sunday but the cars on the road an i dont wanna be doing it there if it gonna be to much hassle
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Sounds to me like your ignition/HT leads are knackered. What will happen is when the cylinder is under pressure its harder for the spark to be produced and over time as the rubber insulating on the leads becomes perished it will leak the spark straight onto the head. When your testing the plugs out of the cylinder all the spark has to deal with is atmospheric pressure which is why its able to jump the electrode gap as your cranking it over. Remove your leads and check for any signs of white kinda chalky looking marks on the inner edge of the insulation....
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Nice one will check that now. I thought it i had the spark everthing before the plugs were fine
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Sounds to me like your ignition/HT leads are knackered. What will happen is when the cylinder is under pressure its harder for the spark to be produced and over time as the rubber insulating on the leads becomes perished it will leak the spark straight onto the head. When your testing the plugs out of the cylinder all the spark has to deal with is atmospheric pressure which is why its able to jump the electrode gap as your cranking it over. Remove your leads and check for any signs of white kinda chalky looking marks on the inner edge of the insulation....
just check leads they look like new. Thanks anyway. Please keep the suggestions coming though they are much apreciated
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Gonna swap the crank sensor today fingers crossed it works :undecided:
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Crank sensor replaced still no luck out of options now
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I solved my similar problem by changing, in this order:
Coil pack
Dizzy cap
Plugs
Leads
Crank sensor
ECU relay
Fuel pump relay
The winner seemed to be the 2 relays as its been faultless since, although the crank sensor needed doing anyway as it was shot!
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Tryed for a spark again and all i got was a sh!tty faint orange flicker. So im going to re-order the coil pack that i canceled and if that works repeatedly kick myself
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Good luck!! Have you had a look at the ecu yet?
Is pretty easy to get to, might be worth a look?
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Had a look at it yesterday when i swapped the crank sensor, which by the way is an absolute ball ache, it looked perfect
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Oh right, sh!t the bed....
You had any other thoughts?
What about relays and that kind of thing? You used one of those diagnostic things to check if every things ok?
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Not yet gonna change the coil tomorrow if that doesnt i know a man with a daignostics machine
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Good luck for tomorrow i reckon you will find the answer with the coil pack hopefully
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Cheers mate. That the first thing i checked cos i know what they are like and my spark was bright blue. Tried it yesterday and a very faint orange flicker so theres obviously something wrong with it.
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just make sure you have a good earth from engine to coil and everywhere else check all the other wiring around the engine especially behind the throttle body area as the exhaust heat shield can burn them apart from that re check your relays not all parts that i've changed have been good parts thats from experience then you end up trying everything again :sad: you will get there in the end mate always seems to be the 8v's ive had 3 and all had issues now have a 16v and not one problem electrically yet (touch wood )
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Just changed the coil and im getting a cough and a splutter but still no luck im thinking maybe not enough juice in the battery so ive put it on charge. My oil light is still flashing thought is that normal?
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Have you done the relays yet?
I am pretty sure they were the final things to cure mine, and they were £9 each and 10 mins to fit :)
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Not yet. Just tried bumping it and i didnt sound healthy at all
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With the new coil pack on i'm still lacking in the spark department. I get 1 or 2 every 5 seconds or so??? Anyone?
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With the new coil pack on i'm still lacking in the spark department. I get 1 or 2 every 5 seconds or so??? Anyone?
my cousine had same problem today. turned out to be the crank sensor
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With the new coil pack on i'm still lacking in the spark department. I get 1 or 2 every 5 seconds or so??? Anyone?
my cousine had same problem today. turned out to be the crank sensor
replaced that on sunday mate. Thanks for the input though
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have you tried new plugs?
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I would say the HT leads need replacing. I had a set once that looked like new but just one of them was knackered. I found out by servicing the car with new plugs and leads etc. Don't be fooled thinking that because they look new they are working Mate. Pity you don't know someone close by who can swap there leads over one by one to eliminate these for you.
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Rotor arm and dizzy cap has now been replaced still nothing. I have taken my distributor off now to change the hall sensor but now its off i might replace both.
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plugs??
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yer,id check the dizzy and hall !
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Right so... dizzy, hall sensor, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coil pack and the crank sensor has now been replaced and yes you guessed it still nothing im now out of ideas
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Have you changed ecu and fuel pump relays? Also leads? Do you have any air leaks on vacuum hoses? Sorry I cant be arsed to read through it all again! :evil:
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Try changing HT leads Bud
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and plugs.
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I got an oil sensor on its way then the relays are the next job but it cant be the fuel sensor because theres plenty of fuel getting through
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I had exact same problem. I'd put money on the relays as said previously.
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Yep relays should have been one of the first to replace as their cheap and easy to do.
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Just had a mate round how know his sh!t with vdubs and hes found it has a spark when i turn the ignition on (not when i turn it over). Apperently thats not supposed to happen so hes advised me to change relays 30, 72 and 99
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worth a try but I dont think its your problem...
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Would you suggest anything?
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New plugs?? since you have been to the length of changing most of the other ignition components, do this.
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I've already changed the plugs so its not them
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well why didnt you say??? :laugh: Compression test needed.
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Had to manually turn the engine when I changed the dizzy and it took some shifting but its obviously not a compression test
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As said, start with relays. ECU and fuel pump relays - 30 being one of em, but I cant remember the other. They are about £12 I think, so should really have been one of the first things to be replaced being so common and so cheap to replace. :smiley:
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Cmon this ^ you aint lost much if it isnt the prob,sean the other one your thinkin is 167 i think :tongue:
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Gonna change the relays next the guy who looked at my car said he had a similar problem with his corrado and it was his relay 72. Its definately not the fuel relay i took the fuel line off and turned the engine and it pissed everywhere
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Corrado relay no.72 could be different to a Mk3 relay 72. Saying that because:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=74087.0
Relay 72 is for the rear wash/wipe function.
Have you had the car scanned for faults? If nothing comes up I'd definately do what harlemex said and get a compression test done.
Few things though, you said intially your fuel consumption halved and the car felt flat... Skipped timing could cause that.
Then the spark sequence wasn't correct, again, cam (dizzy) to crankshaft correlation could be out giving that fault.
Get a compression test done as said or simply just check the timing marks are all in place.
If all is ok, even after changing your relays, check over all the new parts that you have bought. You mentioned a weak orange spark, it should be bright white/blue colour indicating high resistance through a faulty part?
Hope you nail this :smiley:
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Relays 30 & 167. For the sake of just £10 each and 5 mins to do, it's the most obvious choice before larger expense.
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Faulty car + diagnostics machine = no faults :huh:
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Done the cheap obvious relays yet!?
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No thats todays job really hope it works
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Found me a relay. £11 from europarts picking it up in the morning. Fingers crossed :undecided:
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"a" relay? Not both?
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Didnt bother with the fuel relay as im getting plenty of it.
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Relay replaced all earths checked and yet again still nothing and a flashing oil light
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Right the car is now in the garage ive done all i can do. Dropped it off and the guy said come back tomorrow and it will be done :huh:
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he'll replace the engine and give you a thousand pound bill . :laugh: :laugh: :grin: :lipsrsealed:
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I know him and hes a good lad. I had a metal on metal rattle coming from under after i bought car so i took it down to him and it turns out the back bow was put on by a gibbon so he welded my exhaust up and tightened my rear wheel bearings up for £20
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Went to the garage today to see how my car was getting on and the guy seems yo think he know what wrong :grin: he thinks its a socket on the ignition just behind where the key goes in. Hopefully i'll be driving it home tomorrow
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Fingers crossed ey...back on the road :smiley:
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Ye fingers crossed and if i can drive it home its gonna have the biggest thrashing its ever had :grin: i've been driving a 1ltr yaris this past month so i need to catch up on all the missing fun
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In the garage for 3 days now and still no further major pissed now :angry: he think faulty ignition switch. Any oppinions?
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Does anyone know what the flashing oil light means? I have exactly the same problem with my car but haven't had much time to commit to fixing it, I've tried a different throttle body and coil on mine so far but still the car wont fire.
What is the flashing oil light for?
Thanks
Adrian
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with all the prices for the bits you replace and garage fees it would be cheaper to buy a new engine :wink: but in my experience flashing oil light could be not enough oil, oil pump not working :undecided: other thing is have you checked you have a cam belt still fully intact and hasn't snapped? get a compression check and do a diagnostics scan to start with! I feel theres an ecu problem somewhere on nerf69's problem but could be wrong