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General => General discussion => Topic started by: Seanl on 18 October 2011, 08:44
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I bled my radiators yesterday as the tops were only getting warm but bottom was nice and toasty. Problem is, I did it with the heating switched on as thats how I thought it was done. The pump started squealing in my combi, and now the heating and hot water doesnt work at all. I switched everything off, and bled it all again, then turned it back on, but as soon as I manually turn the heating on, or turn a hot water tap on, the pump sqeals for a second, and the heater ignites, but then switches itself back off. Boiler is a worcester 28cdi, and was serviced annually until I moved in 3 years ago :lipsrsealed:
Any help very much appreciated, as I cant find a definative answer online. Cheers.
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Im sure alex will be along shortley, im a plumber but i know nothing about boilers
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Cheers bud!
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Im sure alex will be along shortley, im a plumber but i know nothing about boilers
pretty useless plumber then :grin: :grin:
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where is your boiler located? i assume it's upstairs or in the loft.
when you bleed a pressurised system you must top the pressure up at the boiler via the filling loop. what you've done is fill the radiators with the water that was in the boiler and the pump has run dry.
First thing to do is re pressurise the system. The pressure should be approx 1bar or 14.4psi when the system is cold.
How long did you let the pump scream for before you switched it off?
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Ah cheers. Yeah boiler is in the airing cupboard in the upstairs landing. How do I re pressurise the system? There is no pressure indicated on the boiler, the dial and red indicator needle is at just over 1bar atm but the pressure needle is at 0. The pump must have run for about half an hour before I noticed it. :embarassed: Hope I've not buggered that!
Thanks Alex, appreciate it. :smiley:
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Alex to the rescue :grin:
Underneath the boiler where all the pipes are, depending on your boiler there should be a 15mm mains freed and maybe a silver flexible connector with a knob on, turn that till the preasure reg is around 1.5 bar the. Bleed the rads again just to get rid of any air, then check the gauge, as for yhe noise iv no idea! :smug:
Luke ........ f**k off :grin:
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toby lad :wink:
my radiater in the conservatrie wont work ive bled it ,soon as a turn the key to bleed water comes out :undecided:
all other rads are fine
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toby calm down pressure when cold doesn't need to be more than 1 bar!
If the pump ran dry for half an hour there's a good chance you've burnt it out or very nearly.
daz veedub turn all the trv's off to all radiators in the house and leave conservatory open. does it get hot then? if so then it's a case of balancing all the valves on your rads so that the water is pushed through the conservatory radiator. if all the rads nearest the boiler have the valves wide open then the water will take the path of least resistance and just circulate around those. You need to shut the trv's down enough to still enable the radiators to get hot but also enough to force the water around the whole system.
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toby calm down pressure when cold doesn't need to be more than 1 bar!
If the pump ran dry for half an hour there's a good chance you've burnt it out or very nearly.
daz veedub turn all the trv's off to all radiators in the house and leave conservatory open. does it get hot then? if so then it's a case of balancing all the valves on your rads so that the water is pushed through the conservatory radiator. if all the rads nearest the boiler have the valves wide open then the water will take the path of least resistance and just circulate around those. You need to shut the trv's down enough to still enable the radiators to get hot but also enough to force the water around the whole system.
cheers mate
what are TRV,S tho lol
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thermostatic radiator valves :laugh:
look like this:
(http://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/drayton-trv4-thermostatic-radiator-valves/large-trv4-white-new.jpg)
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off topic
whenever I see the word plumber on this forum it always reminds me of the 'plumber sees her ladygarden' thread of many years ago and makes me chortle :smiley:
/off topic
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top man alex :smiley:
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top man alex :smiley:
Alex beat me to it :grin:
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Found the filling loop, but had no joy sorting it. Dunno if I'm doing it right tbh, so I'm just gonna have to call a technician out which I really cant afford. :cry:
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take a picture of the filling loop and i'll guide you!
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Found the filling loop, but had no joy sorting it. Dunno if I'm doing it right tbh, so I'm just gonna have to call a technician out which I really cant afford. :cry:
The filling loop may be in your old airing cupboard,one end of the loop goes onto the cold water inlet and the other end goes onto the pipe that feeds the heating system,there should also be a gauge next to it which tells you the pressure in the system,connect both ends the turn the valve on and fill untill the gauge reads 1-1.5 bar. :smiley:,SORRY IGNORE WHAT I HAVE JUST SAID I CAN SEE YOUR BOILER IS IN THE AIRING CUPBOARD :grin: my boiler is in the loft but the filling loop is in the airing cupboard.
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take a picture of the filling loop and i'll guide you!
we alex , we :grin:
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thermostatic radiator valves :laugh:
look like this:
(http://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/drayton-trv4-thermostatic-radiator-valves/large-trv4-white-new.jpg)
new diverter valve 008p :laugh: :laugh:
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Fully adjustable aswell lol might get a slight boost leaks from the threads though lol
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I take it the numbers mean "bar"
:grin:
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Thats alota boost :grin:
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stay on topic children :grin:
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:rolleyes:
Right, here is the boiler in question. Sorry for crap pics and poor light conditions though.
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/seanlethaby/c9cbaff1.jpg)
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/seanlethaby/7a6c1660.jpg)
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/seanlethaby/2c9bdaf8.jpg)
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/seanlethaby/1704b3e6.jpg)
The pressure relief valve is the red knob on the right according to the installation instructions. It says to turn it anti-clockwise to test, but it just turns out, then clicks back in sort of like a manual ignition switch for the pilot light. :undecided:
The instructions to set the system pressure says to put a key into the filling loop housing and twist in place. (The large flathead bolt type thing that is under the grey pipe as your looking at it.) Its held in by a retaining clip and even removing this does nothing. It then says to turn the grey knob anti-clockwise to allow water ingress and fill the system until the pressure gauge shows 2.5bar. I'm assuming its the grey bolt just to the left, but this just pisses out water.
Hope you can make this out guys, thanks again. :smiley:
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Is there like a plastic thing to put in the loop as it wer ?
So you can turn it , like a screw driver
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There isnt a filling key that I know of, I just used a flat head screwdriver to turn it
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There isnt a filling key that I know of, I just used a flat head screwdriver to turn it
is it the grey nob? left or right.?
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http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/house/boiler/servicemanual.pdf
page 23 :sad:
it has a built in preasure vessle , so its not a new combi.
my only knowlage of unvented is hotwiter storage system, unless there is a "nipple" like a car tyre on the red vessle?
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Worcester 28 CDi - Pressure bar adjustment ???
I've got a Worcester 28CDi combi-boiler, which is around couple of years old. I remember that when it got installed, I was told that the pressure should be in between 1-2 (psi clock on the far right side).
Now, the pressure seems to have fallen to 0.5. After checking boiler manufacture's website & reading their manual, I realised the way I could increase it back to in between 1-2. However, once it reached 1.5, I took the "filling key" out but the bar continued to go up reaching on 2 now. I wonder what should I now do to drop it down to 1.5. Can anyone help (as it's not mentioned on the manual, which says about INCREASING the pressure but NOT about the decreasing).
What's the purpose of this, precisely ??? What's the minumum & maximum pressure I should keep ??? What's the effect of going below minimum & going above the maximum ???
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
Firstly, i should say that i work for worcester, so here goes... The best operationg pressure for the 28CDi is between 1 an 1.5 bar pressure, if the pressure drops below 1 bar, then as you have done, use the filling key to re-pressurise the boiler, but to no more than 1.5bar... When the boiler is running, primarily during a CH demand, the pressure will rise, possibly by half a bar, depending on the size of your heating circuit. If when topping up the system, the pressure is above 1.5bar when the boiler is not working, then it isn't too much of a problem, but you can resolve the issue by draining a small amount of water out of one of your radiators (usually the first in the circuit). The boilers pressure gauge is set to 3 bar, so if at anytime the pressure does rise too high, it will dump water out through the overflow pipe, obviously if this happens regularly, then you will need to call a heating engineer, whether it be a Worcester service engineer or a local corgi registered engineer is your choice.
Source(s):
The telephone number to book a Worcester Service Engineer is 08457 256 206.
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there should be one of -
http://www.hampshireheatingcomponents.co.uk/shop/article_87161211070/87161211070---Worcester-Bosch-Combi-Fill-Keys-%5B87161211070%5D.html?sessid=vWJs812s3m96J4ApjtHBQEXmQxPp3UOVNwXhUcO2YMK6ZApZft0res2w4htTyj9I&shop_param=cid%3D4%26aid%3D87161211070%26
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Found the key! Hold on I'm going up again......
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Go go go go
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Cooking on gas!!!! Literally! Pressure adjustment key goes into the hole just to the left of the grey bolt looking thing. Water pisses out if the key is not inserted. Turn the grey knob until pressure rises to 2.5 bar, turn off grey tap, remove key, then using the red twist knob to release pressure to 1-1.5 bar. Turned it all off and bled rads again, turned it on but kept getting error indications that indicated control board. :sad: reset about 5 times and it's now settled and rads are toasty, and hot water is scolding, yay! Thanks very much Toby and Alex. Whoever said u were a crap plumber needs teabagging! :laugh: thanks again guys, u probs saved me a fortune for a cowboy to change every module and component in there to see me off! Leg ends! Cheers!
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Glad. Got there in the end buddy, i new u had a key around there somewhere lol ,
More mods for the golf ftw, that woulda cost you £68 + vat for
Me to come out , tell the mrs and she will be happy lol
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i suggest you get that beast serviced as i'm going to fix one of those today that has all sorts of problems :evil:
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Yeah I've already phoned someone! :grin: Thanks again. :wink: :smiley:
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What's actually involved in a boiler service, don't think my valient has ever been serviced since I moved in a few months back, also what's the rate going for a boiler services nowadays?
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NEW QUESTION
Just had the central heating pump changed and the bloke said the system need flushing and a micro filter fitting? Then quoted £700 to do this.
What's involved in flushing to make it so expensive and how is it done something I can do?
I'm a engineer in the navy so use water/heating/fridge system's just might not b up on all the trade talk. Lol
Thanks
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service will cost between 50-100 pounds depending on location and whether the engineer is a sole trader or a business. What's involved depends on the type of boiler and how old it is. for a fairly new room sealed boiler it goes something like:
Service to a room sealed condensing boiler:
perform a combustion test.
if necessary strip and clean heat exchanger and replace burner gasket
Check / re-pressurise the expansion vessel as necessary.
Check and clean the condensate trap
visually check flue and ensure there is suitable access to flue clamps. check termination point of flue
Visually check condition of wiring.
Restart boiler and test all safety devices and controls.
Visually check flame picture to ensure appliance is burning correctly.
Where applicable test case seal for leaks .
Perform a combustion test to ensure appliance is operating correctly.
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a system flush involves removing a radiator and attached a large pump and filtration system in it's place. aggressive chemicals are used to break down all the crap in the system and the filter removes it. it should be done to several radiators upstairs and downstairs and takes the best part of a day to do it. the fernox tf1 cyclone or a magnaclean filter are the most commonly used filters to fit on systems.
to be honest the price is about right maybe a touch expensive here's a breakdown:
days labour: £300 - 400
filter: £100
chemicals £100
the powerflush machine is also an expensive piece of kit and requires regular maintenance