GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Tazzy on 06 October 2011, 17:32
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this car is getting me down now, i am in need of help to sort it, im not mechanically minded or skilled, i know the basics, but not enough to carry out a task confidently by myself, every time i try, i f**k it up :angry:
problem 1 - passenger side inner cv boot/driveshaft - is the driveshaft on the passenger side meant to be small in diameter than the driver side? its thinner, but although ive had a new cv on that side, they put on a cv boot which looks like it belongs on the driver side and i currently have cv grease leaking out, should i have a smaller boot or a wider driveshaft?
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p130/loopylou1986_photo/innerpass.jpg)
problem 2 - driver side outer cv boot - as well as having 2 new outer cv's, the boot now on the driver side wont slide back on, depsite many attempts and is also losing grease, also despite having 2x sachets of grease for each side, the gfs dad only used 1 per side, so i know i dont have enough grease, plus, i dont have/know what the tool is to get those clips on so having to use cable ties, anybody know the tool?
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p130/loopylou1986_photo/outerdriv.jpg)
problem 3 - rear brakes - just bought some bembo discs and pads, however, we suspect the calipers to be seized, can they be unseized and how? how do you take off the calipers and how do you change discs and pads?
problem 4 - abs - vagcom said it was front right (driver side) so we changed the sensor, vagcom still saying its that side and wont clear fault, abs light still on and have no abs, what else could it be?
problem 5 - ecu - current ecu knackered, cant rev over 5k, less than that when the engine gets to running temp, got a new ecu to fit, but vagcom cant unlock the immob/code it to the clocks, need something more advanced, can anyone help?
problem 6 - oil leak - finally found where its coming from, side of sump between a belt of some sort, whats causing this?
i know theres more problems, pics to follow, can anybody please please help me with these issues? i need them sorting
thanks very moochos :sad: :sad:
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problem 3, get the tool you use to wind in the pistons on your break and give it a go, if you cant get it in, try sticking a small poll on to lever it a bit.
chances are if you get it undone with the pole then it will seize up again eventually so unless you can wind it back in ide replace. replaced mine cause mine went at the start of the year, was about £30 for the break (though was on trade account so may cost more to you if you dont have trade account)
problem 4, checked all the wiring?
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thanks for the reply
problem 3 - guess new calipers it is then, why do they seize?
problem 4 - i cant seem to be able to check the wiring as i dont know where it goes, from the back of the wheel arch, it kinda disappears into the car and i cant find where it goes from there :undecided:
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If you can drop the car off for a couple of days next week i can sort that lot for you. Give the workshop a ring tomorrow if you want to book in 01827 288778
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1 driveshafts ate supposed to be different sizes, think boots are the same and squash down though? Not 100% on that bit.
2 I know the tool your on about and its pretty impossible to do it without it using normal pliers etc.. I took mine down to ats and got them to do the clip up... Hmm, cir-clip pliers, that might be it lol.
5 vag-tacho is the program you use to mess with codes/clocks/milage etc, maybe that would help?
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Problem 1 / 2 : looks the wrong boots for that. use a packet of grease per side ideally. You can get the metal clips on with a pair of pliers or snips, just use the 'cutting' part of them and obvilously not nip it up so it cuts.
Problem 3: you using a wind back tool? The calipers twist as they get pushed back
Problem 4: Is the shaft nipped up tight? Whats the ABS ring like?
Problem 5: You should be able to learn the ECU to the clocks with vagcom. Theres a procedure on ross-tech website under instruments
Problem 6: Probable a worn gasket. Guess its coming from between the sump and engine?
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Problem 4: Have you driven the car yet? ABS usually needs half a mile of driving with sensors saying the right things for the light to go out.
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If you can drop the car off for a couple of days next week i can sort that lot for you. Give the workshop a ring tomorrow if you want to book in 01827 288778
will do, ive been told about dubunit before but only just noticed it in your sig :smiley:
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1 driveshafts ate supposed to be different sizes, think boots are the same and squash down though? Not 100% on that bit.
2 I know the tool your on about and its pretty impossible to do it without it using normal pliers etc.. I took mine down to ats and got them to do the clip up... Hmm, cir-clip pliers, that might be it lol.
5 vag-tacho is the program you use to mess with codes/clocks/milage etc, maybe that would help?
weve already tried with a hand held vagcom but it didnt seem to be able to follow command... :huh:
will try again with normal pliers on those clips
thanks
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Problem 1 / 2 : looks the wrong boots for that. use a packet of grease per side ideally. You can get the metal clips on with a pair of pliers or snips, just use the 'cutting' part of them and obvilously not nip it up so it cuts.
Problem 3: you using a wind back tool? The calipers twist as they get pushed back
Problem 4: Is the shaft nipped up tight? Whats the ABS ring like?
Problem 5: You should be able to learn the ECU to the clocks with vagcom. Theres a procedure on ross-tech website under instruments
Problem 6: Probable a worn gasket. Guess its coming from between the sump and engine?
the abs rings look fine, ie, with the revelent holes, how can these cause an issue?
conc. leak, when it comes to oil change (which ive yet to do) can i whip off the sump when dry to change gasket?
thanks
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You don't have a gasket on your sump as such, it's sealant for a seal..
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Get it to topher .Your like me after a few beers ,you will end up with a mess. :laugh: Pay someone that knows what there doing .And someone you can trust. :wink:
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to make things worst, the gf side swiped my back bumper this morning reversing her sh!t box punto off the drive! :sad:
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Could be worse, my missus drives a micra with a heart shaped tailpipe on it thats pink!
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problem 5
Sounds like its running into limp mode straight away. This could be down to anything from a dodgy MAF to a simple boost leak. Was there any code on VAG COM? Also if you take your key out, put it back in and start it then rev does it cap at 5k immediately or after a minute?
problem 6 - oil leak - finally found where its coming from, side of sump between a belt of some sort, what's causing this?
The sump hasn't got a gasket, but sealant. You just need to take the sump off, clean and wait for the oil to stop dripping, then reapply the proper sealant. You may have a leak because someone didn't do it properly before you bought the car?
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it cant be a boost problem, i havnt got a turbo :sad:
i cant remember if the vagcom came up with the maf last time, when i was a shakey raceway earlier this yr, i done a run with the maf unplugged and it ran the same with the mag plugged, it is also held on with cable ties!!
is taking the sump off and re-sealing an easy job?
thanks again :embarassed:
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have u checked the fuses on top of the battery as mine had a dirty contact and that put the light on
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yip, all those are fine, although saying that, they do look like the old fuses, ie, coloured casing, not the see-through coloured casing, however they still appear to be intact
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as for the rear calipers they do take a bit of work mate, get the tool and also crack the bleed nipple off a little to help relieve the tension. but before cracking the bleed nipple get some brake fluid in a small jar and run some vac pip from the top of the nipple to the jar and ensure the end is covered by fluid in the jar so you dont suck in any air. otherwise you'll have to bleed the brakes up.
Thick cable tie's work on CV Boots, just make sure when you tighten them that the bit of boot that will seal round the shaft is free from grease and likewise with the shaft. Needs to mate on a clean dry surface otherwise it may move.
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when I did my turbo change I realised when I put my hand in a load of grease that I had no metal clips holding the CV boots on the narrow end. Nice thick cable ties did the job though :smiley:
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what is the tool needed for the calipers? how much and where from?
cheers
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what is the tool needed for the calipers? how much and where from?
cheers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-WINDBACK-REWIND-TOOL-VW-VAG-AUDI-/360384938772?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item53e89dc314