GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Splinter on 25 April 2005, 11:36
-
I had a problem firstly when putting key in ignition and not sending a signal through to the stereo.
Then yesterday, my car wouldn't start, which again, I pinpointed to the ignition switch (behind the iginition barrel) failing to work properly. Just to let you know I personally found this a pain in the arse to fix on a mk3 Golf and would recommend getting a quote from VW people if cheap enough. I'm writing this because I couldn't find anything on the web for a mk3 golf to help me.
...however, It took me just over an 1 hour 15mins to fix (including head scratching time!). The switch itself is VW only and costs just over £20.
I removed all the plastic cowling from around the steering column, disconnect battery, unplug airbag lead to back of wheel, unscrew hex bolts from behind steering wheel, remove airbag/centrel, and remove 23 mm nut in middle of steering wheel. Then three screws hold both instrument stalks on and unplug all leads (remembering where they go, but don't worry they can't go back where they're not supposed to) Unscrew shear-off bolt clamping collar of the barrel holder around steering column casing (mine was just finger tight) Easy so far!
Now you will need a Small fingered puller to remove the flanged collar in front of the small chunky spring. ...I didn't have this! so in the end I decided it was easier just to remove the steering column, which took me about 10 - 15 minutes longer, but involves breaking yer back trying to reach under the dash! There are two shear-off bolts which I had to drill/chisel to unscrew and further down some more bolts. (Remember to take the steering lock off with the key) This let me remove the whole column and I could then hold the flanged collar, while hitting the top of the thread on the colum with a hammer. Thus finally removing the collar :grin:
Basically I found it a pain in the arse for what I thought was going to be a simple fix. Apparently its a common failure on mk3's and more tricky to remove than on mk1's and mk2's. Hope it helps. I'm sure someone will tell me I've gone about it the wrong way! :cry: Thanks to those people!
-
I have the very same job to do on my mk2 next week, hope its gonna be easy :confused:
-
i got my switch at gsf. didn't fit it myself though because i had no puller, sounds like a nasty job. my mechanic put mine in for a fiver.
-
i got my switch at gsf. didn't fit it myself though because i had no puller, sounds like a nasty job. my mechanic put mine in for a fiver.
I should have done that before I decided to do it myself without the right tools!
-
i try most things myself, but my mechanic says i shouldn't. "if you don't know what your looking for, don't look" hasn't stopped me, i'm bound to learn something along the way
-
I have decided to get my local mechanic to fit mine for me aswell.
-
well i can tell you from experience this job is easy with the right tools you need a bearing puller to remove the unit and the switch is accessible you did not need to remove column that is awkward!
the money you have saved by doing it yourself easily compensates the price of a good puller, a Mk2 is easier if it is an Early one and does not have the splined steering wheel boss then you dont need a puller
good luck
-
my switch went a couple of months back also, and me and a mate had a go at changing it
if you have one of those pullers, makes life a lot easier!
but failing that, a good old hammer and some sort of small chisel type does the trick, just bang it up from underneath :shocked: carefully! lol
:smiley:
-
me old man did mine, took over an hour to do, had pullers but the adaptor just wouldn't budge. went to local vw breakers who attempted it and even then it didnt come off. took of whole column and then grinded it off. nightmare of a job to do. pain in the *ss to put back an all.
-
I had a faulty switch as well, looked at doing it the right way, had to fix the car, no pullers.....mmm..... looked at the position of the mounting tab on the switch and then drilled down through alu' casting just at the step in the casting, went right through the plastic tab!
pulled out the old lock.
the retaining clips are in the casting so no worries about holding the switch in.
God knows how long it takes with the right tools and the 'know' but this was easy.
-
Just wanted to say thanks.
Thanks to the forumwas able to search as mine had the same fault and finally dies yesterday, sods law after reading up about it on here. the RAC man seemed pleased i diagnosed the fault, he got it started and dropped it off at a garage and leaving them to try fix it after the advice.
Anyways thanks and going to have another look about see if anone else has the knocking exhaust and door seal probs when goin on motorway!
cheers
:smiley:
-
there is an easier way, go as far as the first post, then remove the nut & bolt at the bottom holding the steering column to the rack universal joint, and pull the whole lot out complete with the column. Then with a bit of fiddling you can undo the ignition switch screw & swap it over, then put it all back together :)
If you have to remove the adaptor, you can simply bash the steering column at the top with a hammer, with the ign lock housing butted up against a vice or something. This can also be done with it on the car, as the column is collapsable it will slip out from the middle of the adaptor. Then grab the column and extend it again!
Don't thank me for that last tip, I got it from mr vdub in the MK2 section ;)
-
Have had the same prob :sad: Did actually need a new starter motor so fitted that last week, but today at the pumps at Tesco had to bump start the car.
Spoke to Andy and Miles at storm Developments and they had just had to do one last week and offered options to fix as is at the moment, or add a start button if that's what I wanted...offering different options on this...top blokes.
Needless to say they are going to do it tomorrow, but with which option??? :evil:
-
Grove mate - I have wind noise problem at about 85/90 due to door seals.
Just aint done anything about it!
Drivers door only and I guess its coz that gets used the most and the seal get worn.
Solution should be to get a new door seal from VAG.
-
Len405 cheers for advice.
Re the switch, got it replaced the mechanic was not impressed as said it was a pain in arse to do, but now a slight turn of the key and it starts perfectly everytime!!
-
Well I've looked at my door very carefully, checking the alignment etc.
And I cant se anything wrong so the only conclusion from that ist that the door rubbers have become compressed or worn.