GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: JMallows on 13 September 2011, 22:03
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Ok, have searched for this, and found quite a bit of info, about 50/50 on the advice though. Some say do, some say dont!
Basically, the car is using a lot of fuel 27-32mpg, backfiring under engine braking (this is new in the last day or two), can smell fuel sometimes when driving, and after use, or even just when in engine bay! Also when driving along, steady on the throttle, the car will often 'hunt' and just not run right. Sort of like kangarooing along the road, but not as pronounced.
Anyway, i think the general consensus is that if the carb is worn out, its best to replace with the Weber. I have spoken to Webcon, who are making them brand new, for £280 delivered. I dont think this is too bad, and have pretty much come to the conclusion that i will get it, but would i better off trying to take apart the Pierburg and repair it, or just get the new Weber?
Also wondered whether anyone has fitted one to the 1.3, only info i can find is for the 1.6/1.8 golfs?
Any further reading/information on the Weber carbs?
Thanks :)
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you could get a gti 8v engine for that price :lipsrsealed:
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Pick up a scrap mk2/ mk3 for a 1.8/2.0 16v conversion. As soon as my 1.3 died (after many a problem) it was the only way for me. You'll be gutted if you do £280 on a carb, + a r/r tune, then say the head gasket goes, or the engine just dies completely like mine did. Future proof yourself and go all out.
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wee bit cheaper here chap:
http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=32
also contact VW Heritage, as they used to sell them for £190 but they're not on their website any more
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got one on my polo which is the same engine , very easy to swap over if you have some basic diy skills and common sense , and theyre nice and easy to set up yourself too
might have the rubber baseplate split on your car too?
dont think id be keen on paying new prices , you should find a good used one for 50-150
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Thanks for the info. Just had my head reconditioned and a new H/G, so not really keen on getting a new engine! I cant find a second hand one anywhere, well specifically for the 1.3 anyway. Can i make the 40/45 DCOE fit?
wee bit cheaper here chap:
http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=32
also contact VW Heritage, as they used to sell them for £190 but they're not on their website any more
Will try heritage cheers. the other one is for the 1.8 unfortunately.
got one on my polo which is the same engine , very easy to swap over if you have some basic diy skills and common sense , and theyre nice and easy to set up yourself too
might have the rubber baseplate split on your car too?
dont think id be keen on paying new prices , you should find a good used one for 50-150
I dont think £280 is too bad to give the car a few more years life!? The current carb is 23yrs and at 170k, so if i can make this last half as long, then thats not too bad?! As said, cant find a second hand one, but i may not have looked hard enough. What is it like to drive the Polo now, nice? What sort of MPG do you get, better or worse?
Thanks
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Weber made a conversion kit which I think used a 32/34 dmtr. :undecided:
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This is the one they now make for the 1.3. It used to be the 32DMTR, but has been superceded by the 32/34 DMTL apparantly. They are also currently being manufactured (7-10 day wait) so at least i know they are new. Or i suppose they have to wait 7-10 days to ship from Spain?!
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This is the one they now make for the 1.3. It used to be the 32DMTR, but has been superceded by the 32/34 DMTL apparantly. They are also currently being manufactured (7-10 day wait) so at least i know they are new. Or i suppose they have to wait 7-10 days to ship from Spain?!
Well worth fitting one tbh.
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my pierburg was causing starting issues , sinse ive had the weber it starts and runs faultless , very easy to tune up and ajust etc
driving wise...honestly i was hoping it would turn into a fire breathing beast but no its pretty similar
mpg ..i can get 44mpg at best , dont think its massivly better but in the summer you can push in the choke as soon as you have moved away
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Sorry to hijack your thread, ive got a 1.8 driver with a pierburg carb and have just bought a 32/34 weber. My question is what do you do with the 2 x hoses for the autmatic choke off the pierburg?
Do they need to be joined together or can they be blanked off?
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join em up
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my pierburg was causing starting issues , sinse ive had the weber it starts and runs faultless , very easy to tune up and ajust etc
driving wise...honestly i was hoping it would turn into a fire breathing beast but no its pretty similar
mpg ..i can get 44mpg at best , dont think its massivly better but in the summer you can push in the choke as soon as you have moved away
Thanks for that :) nice to hear from someone who has done it!
Anway...
I have done the conversion. Very simple really, just took my time, hardest part was working out how to route the fuel pipes, as some they were different sizes!
Couple of problems now :(
1) There is no fuel return on this carb, but you have a t-piece connector. 2 outlests are clear, and one has a jet. You basically have the fuel from pump and to carb in the two clear lines, and the return goes into the one with the jet. Does it matter where in the system this goes? I have the connector quite a way from the carb itself, nearer to the pump.
2) Runs fairly poorly... With choke out, it runs at nearly 3k revs, push it in slowly and the revs drop, then will cough and splutter and die. Couldnt get the choke more than half way in, about 1200 revs. The engine was up to temp (well, the thermostat had opened), idled for about 10 mins. Did this a few times, and i couldnt then get the car started at all, until i let it stand for a day or two. Think i might have flooded it?
I know i have to set it up now, but according to the insttructions i have to push the choke all the way in to make adjustments. Is this a case of wrong mixture? Should i push choke in half way, make adjustments, then try and push choke in rest of the way, and readjust?
3) When i blip the throttle, the revs would normally jump up for a split second then back down. Now when i do this, the revs jump up really high, and take a few seconds to drop back down again (foot off throttle straight away). Is this is also a case of adjustment needed?
Thanks, lets hope i can get this sorted myself, or i'll have to put the old one back on and take it to a garage!?
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right
the fuel return...try asking on club polo , lots of weber users there
3000 revs on start up is too high , i recon 1500 ish is more like it , have a look at the carb with the choke out , you will see theres a little screw on the mech that partly holds the thrott open for this , ajust that a turn at a time until it starts with a reasonble fast idle
youve lost me a bit on the ajustment , the engine needs to be fully warm and choke pushed all the way in , then set the idle speed and mixture ...a good starting point for the mixture is screw it in fully then 1.5 turns out
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Yeah, just re-read it, it doesnt make sense!
What i mean is, when starting from cold, it runs about 3k. I pushed the choke in a little bit, just to let it warm up a bit, about 1200 revs. Once it was warm, i tried to push it all the way in, and it just spluttered and died. I could recover it if i quickly pulled the choke back out, but then it did stall once or twice. After a few times of this, it stalled as i pushed the choke in again, and would not start for a day or two...
Anyway, i am going out in a bit, i shall try what you say with the mixture screw and see what happens :)
Thanks :)
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yeah 1.5 turns out should run well enough to tune from there onwards
if it stalls everytime you push the choke in then just move the idle screw a few turns so that it will idle
but dont let it roar away at 3k , its too fast for a cold engine
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Makes sense now. I went out, started it with choke, about 3k revs, pushed choke in slowly until it was about 1200. Let t warm up, then pushed in choke slowly, whilst also adjusting the screw at the back with the spring round it (I assume this is the idle stop screw), until i got it to idle at about 800 revs with choke fully in.
Couldnt find the mixture screw as my instructions are incorrect :( Rang weber and they sent the correct ones, so now i have to adjust the mixture, and then readjust the idle, then the mixture, then idle and so on until i presume they level out at about 850 revs. Then turn the mixture half a turn to settle it to about 800 revs.
Going to try this on Sunday when i have a bit more time... Hopefully should have it sorted.
Thanks for your help :)