GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: chiefwhosm on 25 August 2011, 21:15
-
Hi,
In looking into wiring solutions (actually it wasn't even for a car that I came accross them) I was reading on the alternatives to soldering wires (my soldering skills are truly abysmal) and came up with two solutions online, Scotch-Loks and Posi-Locks.
I read that most people shy away from scotch-loks (though as with any solution there are always some for/against users), however I haven't yet seen anyone saying to avoid posi-locks, so I was wondering if anyone here used them, and would reccomend them for splitting into the exsisting wiring of the Golf?
Would most people also reccomend using in-line fuses with them for added safety, etc?
Chief :)
-
in short no
the soldered connection is by far the best.
the longer version
any IDC (insulation displacement connections) can suffer with corrosion from damp and only make the connection via a very small surface area on the thin edge of the metal piece that pushes through.
best advice is clean your soldering iron, but a bit of new clean solder (if yours has been laying a around a while) and practice
good luck
-
I've not used Posi-Locks myself but i've used scotch locks and they work ok, as long as its a solid connection that cannot be pulled apart easily then it should be all good. Back in the day we used to just twist the wires together and cover with electrical tape! lol which was ok if done right
I normally use crimps or screw in connector blocks if i can't be bothered to solder
Best results is soldering tho, so much neater!
-
soldering is not ideal TBH
the way wires should be joined is with crimps before you all call me a boding pikey i'm not on about the sh!te red blue yellow pre insulated bits of crap the motorfactors sell.
you want uninsulated OE speck crimps ( and the proper crimping pliers ), you then cover the join with adhesive lined heatshrink
anything is bettter than crappy moror factor pre insulated crimps or scotchlocks
-
soldering is not ideal TBH
the way wires should be joined is with crimps before you all call me a boding pikey i'm not on about the sh!te red blue yellow pre insulated bits of crap the motorfactors sell.
you want uninsulated OE speck crimps ( and the proper crimping pliers ), you then cover the join with adhesive lined heatshrink
anything is bettter than crappy moror factor pre insulated crimps or scotchlocks
Spot on, much better if not the best way to do it :afro:
-
Soldering is by far the best electrical connection there is. Better than any crimp or joint of any sorts. Soldering is easy, but saying that i was soldering in tech class in middle school, and have been ever since. My entire ice install in my golf is soldered where ever needed, and i've never had any connection fail what so ever. Anyway, if your new to soldering, nothing better than learning. Just take 2 pieces of copper or alloy, metal or wire and solder. Keep practicing until you perfect it
-
Use the right solder,a hot enough CLEAN iron and ensure wires to be soldered are clean and you are sorted.Poor soldering usually comes from cheap solder-dirty soldering tip-bur'nt or dull wires.
-
I'd go with crimped connections tbh. Lead free solder and old wire can make the job difficult for soldering.
-
As an engineer, in-line crimps are the best. Solder is best for components (obviously you cant really crimp them) but for bare wire, crimping with a proper tool will provide a more than adequate connection, and will give a much neater and better finish, as well as being properly insulated. (A load of phase tape over the top of a dodgy solder joint is the work of cowboys imho).
-
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_216783_langId_-1_categoryId_165626
By OE Crimps/In-line crimps do I take it you mean the above?
Surely the posi-locks then are nearly as good since they're screw-threaded and are (on their higher expense range) vibration resistant from coming undone?
In my case, I'm planning at some point adding treble speakers to the parcel shelf area, and just figured I could use such things to break into the dash treble wiring, and route extended wires from there.
Chief :)
-
Yep, those are the ones. I know bugger all about music installs though, but I know that if you put your treble speakers in line with the front ones, the signal will take the path of least resistance though so your fronts will loose effectiveness and rears will sound poo! Better off with an amp designed for this sort of thing, or a proper signal splitter type thing. (crossover I think :undecided:). Ask that question in the relevant section and you'll get a better answer though mate.
-
Why would you want to put treble speakers (tweeters) in the rear shelf? :huh:
-
Because I have a spare set of treble speakers, I figured treble in the shelf (well under the plastic if I'm honest for testing purposes I wouldnt cut holes) and bass in the rear doors (it's a 4 door with no speakers in the rear).
I mean okay, it's not going to be a fantastic sound system, but it will be an interesting experiment.
Chief :)
-
the problem with soldering is you ceate a section of wire that is effectivly one fat singel strand of wire, and is prone to fail over time, the other problem is the flux residue it encorages corrosion :sad: for circuit boards solder is optimal for wireing looms it isn't but its not the worst.
scitch locks are the worst as they arn't sealed and they also pinch the strands of the wire after time the electrical connection often fails ether due to the strands makeing up the core of the wore snapping or becomeing corroded.
crimps (http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/images/products/etc210x100.jpg) this type of crimp is crap. nigh on inpossible to get enough pressure to securely hold the cores but usefull for quick tempoary repairs
(http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ImagesProcedures/SealedButtSplice.gif) these are the crimps are much better the ones you really want have wings that are folded round by the crimping tool and forced down into the cores of the cabel
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR-IZF-x0HTbK-0gZ5US18fL3TUHLFFRVVuAdcXi39ZoiT2pfVGow) they look a bit like that and are the best way of joining wires in automotive applications once coverd in heatshrink.
thats how motec reccomend you join wires if you have to when installing there ecu's tho the ideal is to replace whole wire it's how vw train there monkeys to repair looms and the crimps that hold all the wires into your ecu plug are the same as that one the ones in your fusebox ain't much diffent ether
-
the problem with soldering is you ceate a section of wire that is effectivly one fat singel strand of wire, and is prone to fail over time, the other problem is the flux residue it encorages corrosion :sad: for circuit boards solder is optimal for wireing looms it isn't but its not the worst.
(http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ImagesProcedures/SealedButtSplice.gif) these are the crimps are much better the ones you really want have wings that are folded round by the crimping tool and forced down into the cores of the cabel
If you haven't got crimps, soldering the wires like above, and then covering then in adhesive lined heat-shrink to give protection and strength, is about as good as you can get.
-
Agreed but the first cheap crimps are more than adequate if like mentioned, the correct crimping tool is used. A decent connection cannot be made by using a pair of pliers and crushing the cable on 2 sides. It will simply break the cable core or weaken the crimp end and work loose with vibration.