GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: scaffold on 09 August 2011, 15:03
-
Right, so I've been plumbing in my mates conversion and hit a potential bump in the road!
So upon removing the Webber conversion and associated parts from the 1600 ryder block I've got one of these.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/Charlatan1_bucket/08082011008.jpg)
that rather conveniently fitted snugly into one of these.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/Charlatan1_bucket/1600ryderblock.jpg)
However, with a quick jog to the engine that's replaced it what I'm faced with is one of these.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/Charlatan1_bucket/2lmk3block.jpg)
So. Do I simply remove the plate on the mk3 2l bottom end and I'll find myself with a casting perfectly suited to receiving this part, do I need the part [actually, that's a daft question surely! Course I need it/an equivalent] or do I need to get a little more creative?
Also I've since discovered two holes in the side of the oil filter housing [arrowed on the third image] that look as though they've been welded up and then opened up again. Anything to be worried about?
morgs
-
there should be 2 pipes coming off the oil cooler just above the oil filter.. there should be a pipe coming straight from the waterpump that circulates around this.. i cant see why they have been removed :undecided:
-
So they are for cooling? And they aren't there? Oh! That may cause issues!
It looks like at some stage something has been fitted there, then brazed/welded over but there are still holes through into the oil cooler. You can just see the clean metal around the braxing/weld in the bottom image.
Any ideas as to whether or not the plate on the 2l block hides a casting to accept the part in the top picture?
Morgs
-
on my ABF which is diff block to yours the plate you have would be hiding a whole which flows coolant around and have a L shaped plastic bit covering it.. i cant see your bit off the old engine fitting at all tbh mate.. i would wana know why the oil cooler was braized though
-
1) Your replacment engine is an injection engine and that plate is covering the breather hole, to run it on a carb you will need a electric fuel pump, Facet is a good choice, you mech pump will not fit.
2) The oil coolers are well known for failing and then oil and water mixes, so it looks like someone has just brazed the holes over and bypassed it instead of sorting the problem, easy to sort with another cooler however.
Also that engine colour suggests it might have come from TSR.
-
So...in essence I need to pick up an electric fuel pump and a new cooler? Coolers look to be about £12 on ebay. Worth getting a genuine VW one or are pattern parts generally alright here?
Electric fuel pump...I've a facet on my Chevette project. Any recommendations on reputable dealers for these parts? What sort of pressure should I be looking for? Could do with ordering these asap so I can get muggins back on the road again and I can get on with my own projects.
Cheers for the help so far guys.
Morgs
-
or from a tin of hammerite lol (FAO Wayne)
-
The spec of the engine was a:
2.0 agg bottom end from mk3 golf gti ( with blanking plates and dizzy adaptor ring)
standard clutch and flywheel
fresh oil and filter
baffled sump
mk2 golf gti pb head recently skimmed and valves re-seated (injector holes blocked for use with carb)
recent cambelt and head gasket change
vaccume advance dizzy from k-jet golf gti
gti cam
weber 32/34 twin choke carb
mk3 gti heat wraped exhaust manifold
It will fit straight into any 1600 or 1800 golf driver using standard wiring loom [although now I appreciate that it will although it is in need of an electric pump and a new oil cooler.]
As for the colour...your guess is as good as mine. What I do know is that the crossmember and wishbones will all be getting a coat of hammerite later as I can't go much further without the rest of the parts for installation.
-
Oh, and this was it as fitted before so I guess that answers my first question as to how the fuelling for the carb was set up. Can't quite make out the make of the fuel pump but I'll try and source something suitable based on the advice from on here.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/Charlatan1_bucket/KGrHqUOKjsE25h4yObSBN2NPneQ_12.jpg)
Still none the wiser with the oil cooler though. I guess it will just be a standard replacement item. If I whip the oil filter off, and then the large nut on the bottom of the union I guess the cooler just slides off [under a little persuasion].
morgs
-
Still none the wiser with the oil cooler though. I guess it will just be a standard replacement item. If I whip the oil filter off, and then the large nut on the bottom of the union I guess the cooler just slides off [under a little persuasion].
Yep, spot on, remove the large nut and it should just come off.
Also it is better to use a new cooler.
-
Thanks for all the advice guys. I think I've sorted a fuel pump set up but am on the look out for someone to give me a hand.
Any takers in exchange for some beers and a spot of grub?
morgs
-
Ok, so I think I've cracked the wiring up of the electric fuel pump.
Someone has provided me with this image of the rear of the fuse box and I believe there should be some fused live iginition feeds in the form of spade terminals on there. Is it 30B or Y that I can go into. Any advice appreciate before I depart Somerset in a ball of fire and take half the population with me!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/Charlatan1_bucket/rearofmk2fusebox.gif)
The second image is one that someone has taken of the back of their fusebox. Are the spade connectors there the correct terminals to wire the fuel pump too?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/StuMc712/006-6.jpg)
Would I be right in thinking that if I whip a feed from one of these to the fuel pump Bob should be my uncle?
Cheers
Morgs