GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk6 => Topic started by: racingfreak on 22 June 2011, 11:50
-
I'm doing my first hillclimb in the GTI this weekend and putting a set of semi's on for the occasion
Anyone know what the correct torque spec is for our wheels? 18" Detroits (Think they call the monzas over there by you guys)
-
Should be in your handbook but I believe its approx 110-120Nm :nerd:
-
Geez...and normally I read the manual first and ask questions later :embarassed:
Thanks :cool:
-
I don't have my handbook in front of me at the moment but Autodata say
120Nm - 88 lbs/ft
Do NOT lubricate bolts.
Lightly coat mating surfaces between wheel centre hole and hub (use spray wax).
-
120Nm it is as per the manual :wink:
-
Whereabouts in the manual is it? I've had a quick scan but couldn't see it. :undecided:
-
Why not lightly lube the bolts?
Does a 'wet' bolt really make that much difference?
-
Why not lightly lube the bolts?
Does a 'wet' bolt really make that much difference?
If it is lubricated you could be over tightening the nut.
-
I understand that, but had way too many seized bolts over the years, less is more and just enough to ensure they dont grip. Being 'slightly' over does not concern me, but being able to change a wheel easily on a dark country lane when it's pouring with rain at 1am does.
-
Why not lightly lube the bolts?
Does a 'wet' bolt really make that much difference?
If it is lubricated you could be over tightening the nut.
Not if you use a torque wrench.
Don't worry I copper slip my wheel bolts though your not surposed to copper slip the wheel centres to stop them sticking to the hub as this will be a chemical reaction over time.
-
.............. your not surposed to copper slip the wheel centres to stop them sticking to the hub as this will be a chemical reaction over time.
Really? Do you know what happens? As this was the first thing I did with my wifes new car after I couldn't remove a wheel from my old car.
I had removed all the bolts but it was as if the alloy wheel had welded itself on to the hub. No amount of battering it would remove it.
It was a nightmare. I actually ended up super-gluing the puncture so I could at least drive the car to the tyre fitters and they removed it with a nice big sledge hammer!!!
-
your not surposed to copper slip the wheel centres to stop them sticking to the hub as this will be a chemical reaction over time.
Really? Do you know what happens? As this was the first thing I did with my wifes new car after I couldn't remove a wheel from my old car.
I had removed all the bolts but it was as if the alloy wheel had welded itself on to the hub. No amount of battering it would remove it.
Yes you're not supposed to use copper slip but I do.
-
Keith I can understand why you're not meant to use copper slip on the bolts or nuts but why not on the hub?
-
Ive always used it on the wheel surface were it touches the hub.
A mate of mine has a unit were he keeps about 20 cars outside, the ones we don't do this too the wheel weld on solid due to the cemical reaction. The ones we do treat, even 10 years of untouched standing the wheels come off. 30 years of doing this it seems to works for us. :undecided:
Why it may not work in theory would be interesting to know though.
-
Keith I can understand why you're not meant to use copper slip on the bolts or nuts but why not on the hub?
Thats what the guys at work tell me, I've Googled it but I can't read a definate answer. VW say in the handbook don't lubricate the bolt threads and Autodata say this in what I posted the first time. I've always lubricated wheel bolts/nuts and wheel centres. The number of times I've had to use a mallet on the wheel to release it from the hub. If your worried about copper slip then just use an high melting point wheel bearing grease its just as good?
There is a chemical reaction between disimilar metals copper and aluminium over time.
e.g.
Some metals should not be mixed..... (http://fourseasonsroofingandsiding.com/mixmetals.htm)
Galvanic corrosion (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion)
-
Cheers Keith.
I'd rather put something on the hub than be stuck miles away from anywhere with a puncture and unable to get the wheel off.
My dad was a metallurgist so I'll see if he knows any better.
-
Keith I can understand why you're not meant to use copper slip on the bolts or nuts but why not on the hub?
Thats what the guys at work tell me, I've Googled it but I can't read a definate answer. VW say in the handbook don't lubricate the bolt threads and Autodata say this in what I posted the first time. I've always lubricated wheel bolts/nuts and wheel centres. The number of times I've had to use a mallet on the wheel to release it from the hub. If your worried about copper slip then just use an high melting point wheel bearing grease its just as good?
There is a chemical reaction between disimilar metals copper and aluminium over time.
e.g.
Some metals should not be mixed..... (http://fourseasonsroofingandsiding.com/mixmetals.htm)
Galvanic corrosion (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion)
I still use the copper slip acquired while working for Ken Tyrrell. If it's good enough for F1 it's good enough, full stop. Maybe if you intend to keep a car for say 50 years!!!!! But seriously I've used it since mid 80s and will continue to do so.