GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: andynorfolk on 14 June 2011, 00:50
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i should have my car back by the end of next week with a fully rebuilt engine... does anyone have any tips on running it in?
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm that seems controversial but at the same time also really makes a lot of sense
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Running in is a grey area. If you think, it does 1000 turns a minute at idle, so a few minutes, hours, days equals millions of revolutions. If you've seen new cars been built they test the output on a rr/engine dyno and thrash it to the max, then mr customer comes along and takes it easy for months!!! I'd probably not cane it for a while, don't overly load the engine up or over rev it, but like I say its a grey area. Some people thrash theirs from day 1, and it stays full of power and reliability for years...
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I would keep it below 3k revs for the 1st 1000miles, mix the driving etc and avoid labouring it.
It might be a good idea to replace the engine oil and filter after 1000miles as well.
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This is a good thread as i was thinking the same.. 1000miles is nothing so thats good
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Modern engines don't need running it. Your thinking of the days when you could have any coulour as long as it was black.
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Modern engines don't need running it. Your thinking of the days when you could have any coulour as long as it was black.
I don't think that is correct, metal on metal parts still need bedding in, just because clearances are smaller on new engines, it doesn't make any difference.
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Modern engines don't need running it. Your thinking of the days when you could have any coulour as long as it was black.
I don't think that is correct, metal on metal parts still need bedding in, just because clearances are smaller on new engines, it doesn't make any difference.
Thank you :afro: I was going by the info we used to supply with all new / rebuilt engines when sold.
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Did you rebuild your engine? If not surely the engine builder would be the best person to advise you?
A lot also depends on what oils you use and what was actually replaced. Some engine (not VW or Golf specific) need a mineral oil for running so things like piston rings can bed in, using a fully synthetic would prevent this. After certain mileage the oil is then changed.
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well when i had my topend rebuilt. i drove it gently for the 1st 500miles localy trying my best not to go over 2rpm, then 100miles after 500miles i tried not to drive it over 3500 rpm then so on till 1000miles then oil change (also clean out your oil pump as all the little bits from the engine would have built up in there.
thats what i did. (a full service after 1000miles) oil, oil filter change and check the rest
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well when i had my topend rebuilt. i drove it gently for the 1st 500miles localy trying my best not to go over 2rpm, then 100miles after 500miles i tried not to drive it over 3500 rpm then so on till 1000miles then oil change (also clean out your oil pump as all the little bits from the engine would have built up in there.
thats what i did. (a full service after 1000miles) oil, oil filter change and check the rest
IF you have a new oil filter fitted when the rebuild was done then surely taking the oil pump off and cleaning is unnecessary, thats whats the oil filter is for no? Correct me if i'm wrong of course.
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well when i had my topend rebuilt. i drove it gently for the 1st 500miles localy trying my best not to go over 2rpm, then 100miles after 500miles i tried not to drive it over 3500 rpm then so on till 1000miles then oil change (also clean out your oil pump as all the little bits from the engine would have built up in there.
thats what i did. (a full service after 1000miles) oil, oil filter change and check the rest
IF you have a new oil filter fitted when the rebuild was done then surely taking the oil pump off and cleaning is unnecessary, thats whats the oil filter is for no? Correct me if i'm wrong of course.
Your not wrong, oil and filter change will be fine, nothing should end up in the oil pick up. :smiley:
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well when i had my topend rebuilt. i drove it gently for the 1st 500miles localy trying my best not to go over 2rpm, then 100miles after 500miles i tried not to drive it over 3500 rpm then so on till 1000miles then oil change (also clean out your oil pump as all the little bits from the engine would have built up in there.
thats what i did. (a full service after 1000miles) oil, oil filter change and check the rest
IF you have a new oil filter fitted when the rebuild was done then surely taking the oil pump off and cleaning is unnecessary, thats whats the oil filter is for no? Correct me if i'm wrong of course.
Your not wrong, oil and filter change will be fine, nothing should end up in the oil pick up. :smiley:
That assumes you were medically clean when you bolted the engine back together.
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Medically clean? Behave. A Golf engine can take unfathomable amounts of sh!t, i doubt a few dust particles are guna make any difference!
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:lol:
Checkout some proper engine builders workshops and you'll know what I mean, not some greasy benched back street workshop.
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It is best to work clean, any crap could get into the bearing surfaces.
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Anything fine enough to go through the oil pump gauze will be trapped by the filter, tho I'd imagine it would be spotted and removed by now. When I changed my sump I had a big bit of majorly crushed gauze in there- I'm guessing from a strainer on block breather?
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Rebuilt mine at Easter, giving her 600 miles, oil change then thrash from there :smiley:
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the engine is being rebuilt to an exceptionally high standard, they're replacing anything with a slight amount of damage, re boring it and having the crank shaft reground. it is being done by a company who build race engines and supply the owner of the garage i use, so i know they'll do a class A job...
the thing about thrashing it from the beginning is i don't want to cause any damage but everything on that website about thrashing it seems to make sense, and especially if i can get more power and durability out of the engine.
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Surely then if they are a top banana outfit as you say then their recommendation for running in is best advice not just a bunch of internet know it alls like us. Do it as they say especially if you have any problems down the line you can at least confirm you ran it properly.
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Surely then if they are a top banana outfit as you say then their recommendation for running in is best advice not just a bunch of internet know it alls like us. Do it as they say especially if you have any problems down the line you can at least confirm you ran it properly.
good point sir! aha i can't wait to get her back, will have been carless for 3 weeks by the time i drive her home :(
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Ask the builders is the best bet although if they build race engines they generally get an all out thrashing from the first turn of the key :grin:
I've built a few engines and and other than bedding in new cams on idle I've never "run them in". First 100 miles just pottered up and down the revs, checked for leaks and any problems and then given them full beans from then on.
nick
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Ima firm believer that old engines need running in time but new cars dont. I wouldnt personally but its your choice.
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really hope the garage tell me to thrash it, if there's one thing i'm good at it's thrashing ;) aha (once everything's up to temp obvs) :)
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really hope the garage tell me to thrash it, if there's one thing i'm good at it's thrashing ;) aha (once everything's up to temp obvs) :)
That is the one thing I would not do with a new / rebuilt engine.
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well according to some people that will increase the power output and life expectancy of the engine...
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well according to some people that will increase the power output and life expectancy of the engine...
Or shorten it, trust me I have seen it happen, your choice but noit something I recommend.
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i'll go with whatever the company that are rebuilding it say aha
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i'll go with whatever the company that are rebuilding it say aha
Well I would but what ever happens I would take it easy for the 1st 1000miles.
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modern engines wear in quick
keep the revs down to start with but get the throttel open as well.
rings need to bed in to the cylinders and no throttel = no pressure and the cylinder can polish up before the rings have bedded in. it'll use oil for about 30,000 miles then
i personaly run motors in hard and fast, about the time it comes upto temp is when it'll start seeing full throttel only to 3000 rpm tho after 5 or 10 minutes it'll see 4000 rpm then 5000 after 100 or 200 miles it'll meet the limuter
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That's the thing, if car producers dyno their brand new engines then surely you can't do much worse (I know it will be loaded more with car weight to pull along etc) but it makes you wonder.. However maybe its because the component materials are better nowadays? I'd prob still have to ease the power in over time myself though, build up to it physically, and mentally :)
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OK it's a new engine but it's design and tolerances are over 20 years old. You are right new stuff doesn't need to run as such, but technology, design, metallurgy and oil has come along way since the mk2 engine was conceived!
Just run in as per the engine builder, they may just say drive sensibly for a 500 miles and then do your worst there after.
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Isnt the bloke giving advice a: an engine rebuild specialist (thus wants the work) and b: a-mercin