GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: hennoir on 30 May 2011, 23:26
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Hi - just got an 88 plate 16v with leccy windows which stopped workin on the way home :cry: anything easy to check first. can't see fuse gone or anything, is there a relay that might need changing?
cheers
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hi click on the mk2 maintainance+info link at the top of the mk2 page then the fusebox link,
this will point you in the right direction :smiley:
and all thanks to the legend 'rubjonny' :cool:
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mines just done the same,turned out it was the relay,the relay number is 24,but you will have relay 53 for the horn,pop that one in place of the relay 24 and see if they work
the contacts on my relay were fairly burned
i checked that i had a live feed on the red wire,and earth on the brown wire and a positive ign feed on the black/yellow wire,but there was no feed on the red /black wire when i hit the switch,so knew it was the relay,also the ilumination on the switches had gone too
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Have they all failed or just the one? The cable in the motor tend to get gunned up with dirt and metal filings over time and this jams them. When it did work was it a fast and smooth operation or a bit slow and juddery?
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Hi - yeah both windows stopped completely, no movement in either, will have a look at the relay situation as previously mentioned and the maint info about the fuse box layout..
Is this quite common due to age or just possibly design floors?!?!?
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i think mine was because i had a water leak just above the fusebox,but when i looked inside the points were well burned out,looks like its had hard life,the good news is you can fit just about any 40amp rated relay,its a standard pin set up i.e 3 pins vertical one horizontal
the lekky window set up also uses a thermo fuse which trips out when too much load is present then after a while it will work again but you can rule that out if you get battery power to the red wire on the back of the relay
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Ok buddy thanks for that will check the relay situation and see what happens and what i can find.....very much appreciated :wink:
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on mine it was the reverse light switch....which shares same circuit
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Hi - yeah both windows stopped completely, no movement in either, will have a look at the relay situation as previously mentioned and the maint info about the fuse box layout..
Is this quite common due to age or just possibly design floors?!?!?
I dont see how designer floors would have anything to do with your leccy windows? Perhaps somone at tile depot could fill us in? :lipsrsealed:
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Don't forget your elec window fuse isn't in with the others, it sits on top of the fuseboard in its own holder, as its an added extra not standard issue..
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ok buddy - good shout will take a peek on top of the fuseboard as soon as I can get near it.....i'll check that fuse and the relay as mentioned earlier..
any idea when size fuse it might be (10/12/15amp etc)?
cheers for your help so far guys.....
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it's a special thermal fuse
usually only pops if windows jam.
there is another fuse in fuse box too.
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its a thermo fuse,big silver thing above fog light fuse next to relay,rated at 30 amps,but like i said earlier you can elliminate this if you have a live feed to the relay
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there is another fuse in fuse box too.
yes there is ,its fuse 12,it feeds the black/yellow wire when ign is on
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(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm73/hennoir/fusebox.jpg)
Havent managed to test positive feed to relay as yet.........
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yes that is the thermo fuse for elec windows
dont worry about it being upside down as long as the pins fit,but if that hasnt cured it you need to test the wires with a test light or multimeter
1) check for a live feed from battery to the red wire on the back of relay socket
2) check there is an earth on the brown wire
3) check there is an ign live on the black/yellow wire
4) check there is live power out from the red/black when switch is opperated
5) do the switches illuminate
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Ok quick update..
Thanks mk2kr, have pretty much followed your last post which has had a fair impact on the problem but still git an issue or two....
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm73/hennoir/fuseboxwithonewindow.jpg)
Have managed to get passenger window working, not drivers side though. The switch illuminates but no movement. Do both windows run off the same relay???
Whilst checkin fuse box tracing wires for the windows,have managed to lose headlights......fuses all ok, get side lights, dash lights, mainbeam, fog lights...all lights except headlights....any ideas on that????
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i think there is a connector behind the fusebox,a two pin yellow on with yellow wires ,im sure this is for dipped headlights so you may have disturbed that
relay 43 is for low coolant warning light on dash,its not big enough really to use for the windows,youl end up killing it
this sounds odd to me that this is for windows,ill find a pic of the back of those relays for you and try explain it better
as for pass side working but driver isnt,check the wires that go into the drivers door and into the window mech,oddly enough mine is the same ,now and again i have to thump the drivers door to make it work as there is a loose or bad/dirty connection somewhere in the door area,both widows work from same relay
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ive emailed you some pics mate
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Cheers matey - have just had a peek at the email attach came throught fine. Looking at yours thats exactly what mine now looks like now having moved the relays around to their proper places. Think that monkey that had the car before me just tried moving them around to try and get windows workin.......
Will have a look for the two pin connector tomorrow for the headlights sound like that might be whats happened, disturbed it.......
Just the drivers window to sort then.......
Cheers matey life saver......
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no worries mate
worked out how to do it on here incase anyone else should need it
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll12/neilkaye/yellowwire.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll12/neilkaye/leccywindowwires.jpg)
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Bang on again - i had snagged the headlight 2 pin yeallow wire when putting the fuse box back, still got the drivers windows to sort now, switch lights up but no movement in window, looks like its had a new motor also, is there an easy way or tacing the wires for teh drivers window.....ie from switch to relay, relay to window etc????
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yea.iirc the drivers side is white and white/black,do a continuity test
take the plug off the switch and off the motor where it joins ,set your multimeter to the cont setting,the one that when you touch he red and black leads together it beeps or reads 000,stick one lead to the motor end and one lead to the switch end of the wire if there is no beep or reading the wire is broken,if theres a beep or reading the wire is fine
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Known as test method 2 from the on-site guide... Don't forget to Test your ring straight after!!
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Cheers guys will get stuck in over the weekend..... :grin: :angry: